Review and DCC upgrade of a PIKO BR 94 #37250

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The BR 94 is a recent addition to the PIKO G scale product line. It was released in 2022. There are two versions available, one analog DC #37250 and the other fitted with DCC and sound #37251. Both these are DR versions. Another version has been announced #37252 in DB livery, also fitted with DCC and sound. This thread is mainly about dismantling and digitizing the analog version #37250. The manufacturer details are below:

It is quite a detailed, impressive and imposing model. The analog DC version has directional lights, cab light, flickering firebox, wheel/motion lighting and a standard smoke generator. The DCC version also has sound with two triggered by reed switches under the loco. The two reed switches have no function on the analog version but they are fitted nevertheless. Here is the model compared to a prototype:

br94.jpg

You might be saying "how come there are no rivets on the side tanks" but riveted tanks were replaced with welded tanks due to excessive leakage. If you're interested in this and the many other design variations of this loco, this site has you covered:

First question is why not buy the factory installed DCC version? I did consider this but all my other locos have Massoth XL and Massoth sound modules, and I already had a spare XL. One downside to this is that currently there is no Massoth sound project for a BR 94. I am sure the PIKO decoder is perfectly adequate and if you go down this road you can skip the rest of this thread, which is quite long and involves quite a bit of work. If you wanted to "batterify" this you would also have to dismantle the loco.

Anyway to business. First thing it to take a look underneath. As you can see the 0-10-0T is articulated into a 4 wheel motor block at the rear and a 6 wheel motor block at the front. The cylinders are attached to the 6 wheel motor block and the main crank drives the third wheel as on the prototype. Unlike some other PIKO 6 wheel motor blocks it is not itself articulated and has quite a long wheelbase.

articulation.jpg

This is probably why the PIKO documentation says although this model will run on R1 600 mm radius curves it is recommended to run on larger radius (PIKO R3 or bigger). I haven't found it much of a problem but it does slow down a bit on entering R1 curves.

r1.jpg

It doesn't look too bad from the side, but an aeriel view (grotty photo) shows why it might struggle.

aeriel-view.jpg

Note the wheel pickups are spring loaded "bullets" not brass strip wipers, plus each motor block has a pair of skates. I have removed the skates in later pictures as I feel 10 wheel pickups are probably enough.

inside-motor.jpg

Whilst we're underneath, the bulge on the rear motor block houses the two reed switches which can be used to trigger sounds.

reed-switches-2.jpg

CONTINUED IN PART TWO
 
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PART TWO

The instructions for dismantling the loco show 7 screws but it is far from simple getting to them and removing the body.

Note that it is not necessary to dismantle the body just to install a motor and light decoder, but if you want to install sound and specifically a speaker you do.

The first pair of screws are about half way along the body.

screw-1.jpg

The second pair are concealed inside the box used to house the analog circuit board. To get to that you have to remove the rear coupling structure with the air cylinders.

rear-coupling.jpg

Be careful removing this as there is a spring, a toothed washer and a spring clip as part of the structure. Once that is removed you have to remove the lid of the box (2 small screws) and lift up the circuit board to get to the two larger screws.

screw-2.jpg

The third screw is inside the boiler. To get to this open the boiler door and slide out the circuit board.

boiler-slide.jpg

This contains the circuits for the front lights and smoke generator.

boiler-circuit.jpg

To get to the screw you need to lift the smoke generator out of the chimney.

boiler-door.jpg

Finally you can get to the screw.

screw-3.jpg

Now it is possible to remove the bodywork. Start with the cab. The difficulty here is the number of individually moulded control rods that have to be disconnected. The control rods - there are seven in total - are quite delicate and one in particular refused to be removed from the body and I ended up snapping it.

control-rods.jpg

The last screws are revealed when the side tanks are removed (already unscrewed in the first step).
Here are the screws.

screw-4.jpg

With the cab removed some electronics are revealed that are hidden in the coal bunker. In the middle is the circuit board wiring for the rear, motion and firebox lights, and the smoke generator.

inside-bunker.jpg

To the left is an insulated packet containing the motor electrical suppressors.

suppressors.jpg

Note the cab has a lead to it from the boiler which is for the cab light and top rear light. You can unplug this lead from the cab if you want to give yourself a bit more manoevering room.

inside-roof.jpg

Once the cab has been removed you can remove the boiler. The superheater on the side of the boiler has to be removed as it is attached to both the boiler and chassis.

superheater-1.jpgsuperheater-2.jpg

With the boiler removed you can get to the speaker enclosure. In front of that is another circuit board for the firebox lighting. The speaker enclosure has a small slot in one side to allow for the speaker cable. To the left is a space where the sound module will go.

firebox-glow.jpg

CONTINUED IN PART THREE
 

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