Roundhouse Billy superheater tube

skycap

skycap

Registered
I have my Billy kit almost ready to go only to find out that my superheater tube does not protrude far enough from the rear of the boiler to get the burner assembly in place. The threaded fitting on the end of the superheater tube cannot pass through the burner assembly. If anyone has experience with this please advise. I built a Billy years ago and had no issues. Thanks for the help.IMG_4409.JPG
 
Could you post a picture of the pipework at the smokebox end please? The threaded fitting does not need to pass through the slot in the burner face plate, only the tube itself needs to do that but I agree it does look shorter than normal. It is difficult to be sure but looking at your picture it appears to me that the black face plate would fit between the aluminium burner mount and the rear of the threaded fitting. And that is all it needs to do as the lubricator pipework can be bent to reach it, as needed.
 
Rhos Helyg Loco Works said:
Could you post a picture of the pipework at the smokebox end please? The threaded fitting does not need to pass through the slot in the burner face plate, only the tube itself needs to do that but I agree it does look shorter than normal. It is difficult to be sure but looking at your picture it appears to me that the black face plate would fit between the aluminium burner mount and the rear of the threaded fitting. And that is all it needs to do as the lubricator pipework can be bent to reach it, as needed.
Click to expand...


The issue is that the steel tube is not long enough to allow room to slip the burner between the nut and the cast boiler support. here is the front.billy front.JPG
 
'Tis easily done! The piece of tube (or whatever) that you have in front of you isn't quite big enough for two, so you cut it in the right place, and then pick up the wrong piece and s/solder (or whatever) it in. Wish I had a quid for every one! :swear: :banghead::swear::banghead::swear::banghead:
 
Rhos Helyg Loco Works said:
As do Roundhouse's approved service engineers, of which I am one.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the help. I've gone through a lot of work including an 8 hour break in. I was excited about finishing things up and since I live in the USA it may take quite some time to get a new part to the USA. It is quite a disappointment. Why do they use such short screws on the rear boiler brass band? I scuffed my new paint job which had been curing for weeks trying to fit it. I ended up going to my local hobby shop and then a hardware store yesterday to locate a longer screw and that made the installation a snap. Another issue was I needed to disconnect the superheater tee from the cylinder connections twice while attempting to resolve the issue. I didn't want to disturb the cylinders due to having the chasis timed and running so well. I soon discovered I couldn't remove the front spreader bar for easier nut access unless I were to remove the cylinders. The spreader bar screws won't pass by the cylinders by just a tiny amount.
 
Last edited:
G-force1 said:
'Tis easily done! The piece of tube (or whatever) that you have in front of you isn't quite big enough for two, so you cut it in the right place, and then pick up the wrong piece and s/solder (or whatever) it in. Wish I had a quid for every one! :swear: :banghead::swear::banghead::swear::banghead:
Click to expand...

I thought of that but the material appears to be possibly stainless and I would need to source some and don't think I have the equipment to properly braze or solder the tube.
 
I'm sure Roundhouse will sort it out for you in less time than it will take you to chase round and find all the materials you need.
 
skycap said:
Why do they use such short screws on the rear boiler brass band?
Click to expand...
They are normally 8BA x 1/2inch or the metric equivalent, 2mm x 12mm I think.
skycap said:
Another issue was I needed to disconnect the superheater tee from the cylinder connections twice while attempting to resolve the issue. I didn't want to disturb the cylinders due to having the chasis timed and running so well.
Click to expand...
My usual method is to just remove one cylinder, which will allow the superheater tee to be removed. The timing can be maintained by ensuring the valve spindle does not rotate on the cylinder that is removed. I do this by temporarily replacing the short 6BA steel screw supplied for attaching the radius rod to the valve spindle fork end with a longer (at least 3/4 inch) equivalent, so preventing it from making a complete turn and allowing the valve spindle to be returned to its original position on reassembly.
 
Rhos Helyg Loco Works said:
They are normally 8BA x 1/2inch or the metric equivalent, 2mm x 12mm I think.

My usual method is to just remove one cylinder, which will allow the superheater tee to be removed. The timing can be maintained by ensuring the valve spindle does not rotate on the cylinder that is removed. I do this by temporarily replacing the short 6BA steel screw supplied for attaching the radius rod to the valve spindle fork end with a longer (at least 3/4 inch) equivalent, so preventing it from making a complete turn and allowing the valve spindle to be returned to its original position on reassembly.
Click to expand...

I noticed only one cylinder would need to be removed. Great idea for the rotation of the spindle! Thanks.
 
Roundhouse wrote back and the problems is solved! I missed the fact that the superheater tube needed to be bent to the left to allow room for the burner to clear the superheater nut. I used their idea of placing a AAA battery inside the center boiler tube while bending the superheater tube and it worked like a charm. It's always the little things that get you! boilerend.JPG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top