Rust-Oleum Paints

[GAP]

I have purchase 2 spray pack cans of Rust-Oleum 2X paint to use on a bash that I am doing.
I sprayed the first coat and then waited for 24 hours before spraying the second coat but when I did the paint crinkled and looked like it had been put in paint stripper.
I washed what I was spraying with mineral turpentine and then with soap and water which I let dry thoroughly (all day sitting in the sun) then sprayed it the next morning.
The can mentions either respraying within 1 hour or waiting for 48 hours before applying a clear coat but nothing about just re coating.
Has anybody else come across this problem or am I doing something wrong?

 

[Gavin Sowry]

This is an unpaid advertisment for Rust-Oleum Paints. Flat Black on the loco cab area, Flat Red Oxide on the Tipplers, followed an hour later with the same flat black as a mist coating for the weathering effect. No surface preparation, other than a wipe down with a rag. Only problem I had, was getting a slight sheen on the black, once. Second time I actually shook the can like you are supposed to. My cans said suitable for plastic. Cheap from the paint rack at Bunnings.

 

[GAP]

View attachment 264997

This is an unpaid advertisment for Rust-Oleum Paints. Flat Black on the loco cab area, Flat Red Oxide on the Tipplers, followed an hour later with the same flat black as a mist coating for the weathering effect. No surface preparation, other than a wipe down with a rag. Only problem I had, was getting a slight sheen on the black, once. Second time I actually shook the can like you are supposed to. My cans said suitable for plastic. Cheap from the paint rack at Bunnings.

Yep mine came from the Big Green shed as well.
You sprayed the second coat after 1 hour, I am thinking that a 2nd coat either has to be done within 1 hour or I have to wait for 48 hours.

Edit;
Just had a bloke on a US site bag them out something fierce, "puts out way too much paint for model work." "I have almost given up on Ripoff-Oleums paints. In the past couple of years I have probably returned 20 cans to Home Depot because they quit spraying after a single use".

Looks like I may have opened a can of worms here, but I really do need to get this bash painted, it is now been hanging around for nearly 10 months (a zombie bash??).

 

[dunnyrail]

Bit of a clue could be in the “cheep” comment.

 

[Paul M]

You sprayed the second coat after 1 hour, I am thinking that a 2nd coat either has to be done within 1 hour or I have to wait for 48 hours.

Sounds similar to Plasticote, you can respray within an hour. But it obviously depends on how quickly the paint starts to set

 

[Gavin Sowry]

What you're supposed to do when finished spraying, is to turn the can upside down, and spray until it squirts clear. In theory, that is to clear the spray nozzle. Sometimes, you get nozzles that are designed to work upside down, so that sort keep spraying.
Yes, these cans will lay the paint on thick, if you are heavy handed. Just try the spray first on a bit of card, and get the 'feel' for a thinner coat. I managed to get a mist coating of black on my tipplers, as seen in the above photo.

Here's what they looked like, straight from the can, so to speak.

 

[maxi-model]

The crackle surface effect is usually associated with the solvents in one paint type reacting with the substrate that the paint has been sprayed onto. A common problem in the days when rattle can car paints were of the old fashioned cellulose type and were used on something like styrene plastic. You used to be able to buy a "barrier" primer to overcome this problem. So first question is your paint compatible with the surface you are spraying on ? Are the 2 paints you are using compatible ? Even some paints from the same make might not work together as they were individually designed for different applications.

One issue I have had where you get this crinkle effect is when I have abraded (rubbed down) or used a cutting agent between coats and not properly cleaned the surface before recoating. Any residue left behind of any agent you might have used to "cut"/prep the underlying surface/paint can cause this effect. As will any other contaminant. It does not matter if you are using enamels, acrylics or cellulose based paints, it can happen as described.

When washing/cleaning a prepared surface for painting do not use regular household washing up or hand soap - they contain lanolin ( "Now hands that do dishes can feel as soft as your face with mild green Fairy Liquid") and create a barrier for subsequent coats to adhere to. Use some regular washing soda/soap crystals instead (not the caustic stuff) and rinse in plain water and dry with a lint free cloth. hope this may give you some clues as to what is going on with your paint. Max

 

[GAP]

The crackle surface effect is usually associated with the solvents in one paint type reacting with the substrate that the paint has been sprayed onto. A common problem in the days when rattle can car paints were of the old fashioned cellulose type and were used on something like styrene plastic. You used to be able to buy a "barrier" primer to overcome this problem. So first question is your paint compatible with the surface you are spraying on ? Are the 2 paints you are using compatible ? Even some paints from the same make might not work together as they were individually designed for different applications.

One issue I have had where you get this crinkle effect is when I have abraded (rubbed down) or used a cutting agent between coats and not properly cleaned the surface before recoating. Any residue left behind of any agent you might have used to "cut"/prep the underlying surface/paint can cause this effect. As will any other contaminant. It does not matter if you are using enamels, acrylics or cellulose based paints, it can happen as described.

When washing/cleaning a prepared surface for painting do not use regular household washing up or hand soap - they contain lanolin ( "Now hands that do dishes can feel as soft as your face with mild green Fairy Liquid") and create a barrier for subsequent coats to adhere to. Use some regular washing soda/soap crystals instead (not the caustic stuff) and rinse in plain water and dry with a lint free cloth. hope this may give you some clues as to what is going on with your paint. Max

Same can.
It stuck to the washed surface with no problem.
Nothing was done to the first coat except letting it dry.
I have never heard of any paint reacting with itself from one coat to another.

As for turning the can upside down the description on the can boasts that it can be sprayed at any angle even upside down.

I have read that the cans spray on really heavy so may have to use many thin coats 1 hour apart.

I contacted Rust-Oleum Australia and the silence of their response to my "contact us" request was deafening, I then left a voice message with the tech support people after phoning them and again I am still waiting and will not hold my breath for a reply.

 

[maxi-model]

Same can.
It stuck to the washed surface with no problem.
Nothing was done to the first coat except letting it dry.
I have never heard of any paint reacting with itself from one coat to another.

Hi. I wasn't suggesting like/same paints could react with each other, just that 2 products of the same make could be incompatible Another thing to keep in mind that the solvents in paints can/will penetrate through previous coats and the combined effect can cause a reaction that was not apparent with initial light coats.

Just putting some of my experiences over the years into the pot to see if it rings any bells. Max

 

[dunnyrail]

When washing/cleaning a prepared surface for painting do not use regular household washing up or hand soap - they contain lanolin ( "Now hands that do dishes can feel as soft as your face with mild green Fairy Liquid") and create a barrier for subsequent coats to adhere to. Use some regular washing soda/soap crystals instead (not the caustic stuff) and rinse in plain water and dry with a lint free cloth. hope this may give you some clues as to what is going on with your paint. Max

Hm that lonilin effect could be useful for creating wash off effects, must experiment.

 

[Bill Barnwell]

Same as maxi-model said, like you can spray oil base over lacquer base but not lacquer over oil base, chemical reaction, also I would let dry 48 hrs between coats unless spraying right after first coat, if waiting between coats the solvent needs time to evaporate before adding more other wise it gets trapped between coats and causes the top coat to wrinkel

 

[GAP]

This just in from Rust-Oleum technical support.
Second coat to be applied within about 20 minutes or it will crinkle, the solvents will react with the enamel term used was "fries the bottom layer".
Advice was to wait 7 days then give the paint a light sand to get rid of the crinkle then-re spray.
As I have stripped it back down to the base plastic I will try the 20 minute re coat, to do another colour next to it I will have to wait 7 days to avoid the crinkle at the overlap.
Or try something else, might go to the paint store down the road and have a chat to them.

 

[tac foley]

The Australian equivalent of Halfords is your friend here. Apart one one foray into a so-called 'art paint aerosol' for my CPR reefer, I have used Halford's products on most everything railway-ish I've ever built or bashed, and never been disappointed. As I KNOW that they are not acrylic-based, I'm safe in using Humbrol's enamel clear-coats of one type of another since my airbrushes have died on me, and I can't get Crystal-Clear or Min-Wax products hereabouts.

 

[maxi-model]

I'm intrigued by the issues you are experiencing, so I did a quick Google on Rustoleum 2X and this thread popped up near the top Help! Major recurring problem with Rustoleum 2x | Restoration questions | Pinside.com. Problem product ? Max

 

[GAP]

Talking to a paint shop bloke it is mostly to do with the amount of paint that is delivered.
Evidently Rust-Oleum is primarily for meal work so one thick coat is applied.
The problem I am facing is typical with most enamel paints its either thin coats with recoats within 20 minute to 1 hour or wait either 24 Hours to 7 days depending on the brand (Rust-Oleum recommends 48 hours or longer.)

I posted on a US forum and the reaction I got was amazing not a kind word about Rust-Oleum in the majority.

I think I will re experiment with artist acrylics diluted with laquer thinner which I have used on another model years ago and it is showing no signs of deterioration or anything else.
I did it after talking to a plastic modeller and evidently the stuff is that volatile it "flashes off" really quickly and does not damage plastic.
After looking at his models I gave it a try so might go back to that anything is better than this garbage.

One interesting thing the paint shop bloke showed me is a device that turns a small bottle into a spray pack, it has refills of propellant and extra bottles, the initial setup was around $35. The paint shop can mix any colour for me to put in the bottles.

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Preval spray system. Spray any paint! Refillable touch up and air brush spray for pro and DIY jobs that deserve the best look.

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I am seriously considering it as compared to the 2 Rust-Oleum which cost me $33 it may be a good buy.

I do not know of an Australian equivalent of Halfords.

 

[Paradise]

Enamel paint is good for down pipes and letter boxes.
I'm not putting a thick layer of jam on any model.

 

[The Shed]

I do not know of an Australian equivalent of Halfords.

Paints | Supercheap Auto Australia

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[maxi-model]

My trusty battered 35 year old common garden Badger hobby "airbrush". Showing off its little repair. Simple, reliable and cheap. Will spray just about anything I care to mix up of the right viscosity in a nice even coat. It can be run off a compressed air can with the adaptor it was supplied with (as pictured) or, as I quickely found out, far more economically with a small desktop compressor. Max

 

[GAP]

Paints | Supercheap Auto Australia

Find a comprehensive selection of auto paints for sale in both our in-store and online store, all for your convenience. Visit our website for more info!

www.supercheapauto.com.au

Auto Store Near Me | Supercheap Auto Store Locator

Store Locator | Find an auto store near you | Supercheap Auto is Australia's leading auto parts and accessories retailer stocking a variety of car batteries, engine oil, roof racks, tool boxes and much, much more. Buy in-store or online & click & collect today!

www.supercheapauto.com.au

Oh I'm fully aware of Supercheap that's where I get my El Cheapo paints but it is not an auto paint store just a cheap car product shop (mostly from China) but I do get my plastic body filler from them.

I have found that the paint shop around the corner specialises in auto paint, which is where I found the Perval product.

 

[GAP]

My trusty battered 35 year old common garden Badger hobby "airbrush". Showing off its little repair. Simple, reliable and cheap. Will spray just about anything I care to mix up of the right viscosity in a nice even coat. It can be run off a compressed air can with the adaptor it was supplied with (as pictured) or, as I quickely found out, far more economically with a small desktop compressor. Max

View attachment 265123

Yep that is what I am thinking of unpacking, I run mine of a workshop compressor with a tank so no pulsing issues.
I do have some compressed gas cans but I find that if I use them for too long they ice up.