Rusty Binnie Skips

C

Chris Bird

Steam,gardening, photography
Hi all
I have to admit that although I have have been hankering after a rake of rusty Binnie skips, I never seem to have the time to tackle the job myself. I was delighted to find that Richard Seager of RS Steam Services did have the time - and he delivered ten of them to me at Peterborough. I made loads using granite ballast and quick setting cement (skips lined with cling film until set) so I have done something towards the effect! I have to say that I was surprised at just how much pleasure there is watching a little loco hauling them round the railway :-)
Richard is at www.rssteam.co.uk
Cheers
Chris
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That's an interesting way to make loads Chris?

What size granite chips have you used....
 
I must say I thought when I read the words "Rusty Binnie Skips" it was an assigment with a red-haired lady of the night round the back of the slag heap, but no, very good, I like the loads
 
They look very realistic, just the job.

The driver of the loco looks familiar. I seem to recall doing a little custom on the same figure to go with a Wilesco stationery steam engine. Is the figure a Scalextrix mechanic suitably painted etc?
 
Most excellent. Is there a tutorial available on getting that rusty look?

Bet the granite load adds lots of weight and really makes the engine chuff.

Looking at the site, they fit djb whistles. Are they any good, I have a ragleths and would love an rc whistle, to scare! I mean warn, cats with.
 
Thanks guys - I have to say that I am well pleased!

The granite is 3mm down horticultural grit. I use it with sand an cement to give a hard, brushable ballast.

The figure is, in fact, the Finescale one supplied with the loco. It is cast bronze and very heavy. I think the previous owner painted it.

I never thought of the red-head option :D

The concrete sure adds weight and stability - not much chuff from the Hunslet though.....

And the resonator whistles are very popular. They make an odd sound but they have the huge advantage of being scale-ish and the steam comes out of the right place. I would ask over on the Live Steam section.
Cheers
Chris
 
Cyclone said:
Most excellent. Is there a tutorial available on getting that rusty look?
Click to expand...

I had a go at rusting some LGB skips last year and posted a sort of 'How I did it' on my blog.

http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2010/10/how-i-weathered-some-lgb-tippler-wagons.html < Link To http://riksrailway.blogsp...gb-tippler-wagons.html

Not sure if mine look as good as the Binnies though.
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I also did one for how I created the loads (of crushed sandstone):

http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2011/04/how-i-made-rake-of-loaded-weathered.html < Link To http://riksrailway.blogsp...-loaded-weathered.html
Hope there's something there of interest.

Rik
 
some very tastey modeling going on in here:love::thumbup:
 
Rik - your rusted LGB skips look pretty darned good to me! The difference is that Richard has bent, battered and distorted his - but the rusting loooks much the same.
Cheers
Chris
 
Both of the rakes look the bee's knees. :clap::clap:

I have used a way of distorting the sides plastic ore cars......good old hot water.
I noticed how a plastic container, that was not dishwasher safe, distorted in a pleasing manner and also remembering an article that I had seen in an American HO modelling mag I tried the method out.
Using hot water gradually poured onto the plastic will soften it...do it very very slowly until you get the right amount of heat to be able to distort it with any implement. By either letting the water pool inside the bin/hopper or by letting it fall off, you can get different effects. Be oh so careful..best place is on a stainless draining board...ask me how I know :@
Even if you get an extreme 'bulge' or 'dent' this could be caused by an overzealous crane or filler operator or even just plain badly treated.

I have thought of trying to give boxcars, gondolas and stock cars that 'sagging' look by finding a way to heat them up but this might be a step too far! :o::o:
 
beavercreek said:
I have used a way of distorting the sides plastic ore cars......good old hot water.
Click to expand...
Thanks for that tip. I did try distorting my LGB tippler buckets with a blowtorch but found it really difficult to control so gave up after doing only one.

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LGB's plastic seems more dense and heavier than that used on the Binne skips. Not sure if I can do the hot water technique retrospectively now I've weathered them but will give one of them a try.

Rik
 
Very nice effect

heres one I did for my 32mm quarry feeder
primer, matt black spray, rust dust while still wet

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would look better with a bit of distortion
 
I put dents in these LGB wagons with a gas blowlamp and various sized screwdriver handles then airbrushed the paintwork - I can't find any rust products over here.

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I do like those skips, who sells them?
 
Another idea for denting skips is to use a candle flame carefully, gives more control over the heat than a direct application of heat perhaps? I did mine usng various objects to push the slightly softened plastic about.

ATB

Steph'
 
The binnie skips come with small wheels, (I think 20mm) are they ok with the frogs on lgb points. (my accucraft goods van doesnt like the gap at all, but the point is old).
 
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