Speed control

Henri

Henri

refuses to grow up
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I'm used to have a transformer / power supply with 'build in' speed control knob from my H0 layouts.

I've seen LGB has some kind of speed control without transformer (5010). Transformer is then added separately.

I have this HUGE an POWERFUL 14V 8AMP!! transformer. Would be adding a separate 5010 be a good idea to control speed of the trains?

Or are there better options to control train speed nowadays?
 
How longs a piece of string?, The answer to your question is what do you want to do?, my line has automatic loops and blocks, you just set the speed and let it all run, If you want more control you can go remote like aristocraft train engineer for example or go more complex into dcc, Sky is limit, Decide what you want to do and go from there, if all you want is to set speed and let run, then a basic controller is all you need
 
Not forgetting that to maintain a steady speed with 'free' running you need a very flat (boring in my eyes) track. Up grades slow the train and downs speed it up. It a question of deciding how you want to run and building accordingly. Shorter trains also helps the problems with grades. I have 15m of 1:40 straight out of my terminus, free running to get up that runs away on the levels, never mind on the way back down.
 
I think that current (pun again!) EU regulations have killed off the combined transformer/controller "power pack" of old..... now it has to be a separate "switched mode" power unit feeding only low voltage to a separate controller unit. This is why Massoth had to delete the all-in-one 1200Z and go over to the present two-part system.

Jon.
 
Henri said:
I'm used to have a transformer / power supply with 'build in' speed control knob from my H0 layouts.

I've seen LGB has some kind of speed control without transformer (5010). Transformer is then added separately.

I have this HUGE an POWERFUL 14V 8AMP!! transformer. Would be adding a separate 5010 be a good idea to control speed of the trains?

Or are there better options to control train speed nowadays?
Click to expand...
That will work just fine, keep your Transformer indoors and run a pair of wires out to the 5010. If it is by your Station then all will be OK for a Beginner. That is exactly how I started in the Garden with LGB Electrics back in 1984.
JonD
 
Plenty of current available from that transformer, but 14V output is a little low perhaps? Some larger locos really need a bit more voltage to get to reasonable running speed (not top speed).

I don't know the LGB 5010, does it require AC or DC input? Is your transformer output the same?
 
As far as I know, all LGB is DC. I have an old Stainz for the occasional run. The transformer is DC and I used to power my Scalextric track with it.

14 Volts is not much, I know, but the change for me to buy a NEW LGB loco is quite low at the moment ;-) But who knows what I might run into this weekend....
 
Henri said:
I know, but the change for me to buy a NEW LGB loco is quite low at the moment ;-) But who knows what I might run into this weekend....
Click to expand...

Spoken like a true 'G' man! :rofl::rofl:
 
Remember that the some LGB power bricks put out AC, like the [HASHTAG]#50111[/HASHTAG] for instance. The AC is converted at the throttle, [HASHTAG]#51070[/HASHTAG]. I don't know about the newer two component starter set types however.
 
Henri said:
As far as I know, all LGB is DC..
Click to expand...

No - some LGB power supplies output AC. Just check, but your Transformer should get you going just fine.
 
Be warned, you have 8amps available and I am not sure what current your 5010 can cope with.

Using my experience of LGB from the 70s I am thinking that a 5010 is a very early LGB controller that can probably only cope with a couple of amps. I had some of the 5012 type dating from the 1970s and these have a Hammant and Morgan type resistance mat and wiper to control the trains.

When I began I also used it with an old Scalextric transformer too! This worked fine, as my original LGB locos were all 14v affairs. However I only had a couple of amps available. As I got more and bigger locos and installed lights etc the voltage and power available became inadequate and the 5012 did not like it!

Early on I migrated to an 18volt LGB unit (5008 I think) and then some 22v 5006 units, but my amperage was still lowish 2 1/2 amps. By now I was using the 2 1/2 amp 5012N units

Eventually I moved on to the modern LGB 5amp control huts and got some Gaugemaster for GRS 5amp 22v DC transfomers.

The problem with any high amperage unit is the damage that it can do when things go wrong. I managed to burn out an LGB ball bearing pick up unit when it was accidentally left causing a short and that was on a 5amp supply. Sparky will be able to explain it better than me, but a high amperage supply tends to find the poor wire joint, or poor track connection and cause heat, melting and general havoc. That is why I have chosen to have three 5amp sections on my layout, rather that have one section with higher amps.

The 5amp huts are expensive but very reliable. I have had three in my garden for three years and the weakest links are the spring terminals, so I have used direct wire connections soldered to the outputs as the terminal connections have failed. The controllers still work well though.

Good luck!

James
 
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Thanks James, but the power supply is capable of providing 8 Amps if required. The Stainz I have will draw around 0,5 to 1 amp max.
Voltage is controlled and Ampere is a result of voltage and resistance/load applied to the voltage.

My most likely next purchase will be an RC Playmobil shunter. Or something else very old LGB-ish so I'm not yet in the need of more than 14V.

I'll see if I can add an Amp meter, as it is indeed tricky when having shorts. I'm not sure if the ps has V and A meters... Still have to dig it up in the pile of toys in the attic...
 
Yes your Stainz will only draw less than 1 amp in normal running, but James is pointing out the problem if you get a short circuit - then you could get the full 8 amps flowing which may be too much for the 5010 to handle without overheating. Try and find out the maximum current rating of the 5010, and maybe fit a suitable fuse?

[edit] Looks like the 5010 is designed for 1 amp [/edit]
 
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I wouldn't use a fuse i'd use a DC rated Circuit breaker, a little over the maximum current you wish to draw
 
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