To Insulate or not to insulate

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Kev Green

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inane question number 3 (or it maybe more I’ve lost track, not train track)


So I’m thinking of laying a double oval track so that I can keep two engines on the track . I want to ’park’ a second engine in one of the ovals and be able to change to the other so how do I insulate it so they don't both move at the same time?A23E532A-18B5-4F27-984A-D8A9FC4249FF.png
 
Unlike the smaller gauges LGB/Piko points are not self isolating, so as Greg Elmassian Greg Elmassian says, insulating rail joiners.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Insulating track joiners
Click to expand...
Thank you yes I’ve seen those and forgive me for being dim (but nice) but I understand that they would insulate part of the track but how would the engine power over it? To experienced G Scalers that might be a very stupid question but if I don’t ask I don't know
 
How do you plan to operate ? DC, DCC, RC/battery or Live Steam ? :)

If DC, which I assume from your question, isolating track joiners on each end of just one of the passing loop rails. Depending on the rail type/make different types, from different suppliers sometimes, are made. Then a simple on off switch between one end of the isolated the passing loop rail and the main loop using a jumper wire. I bond/solder the wire or you can use track joiners with tabs (or drill, if no tabs available and solder jumper there). Make sure what ever train you park up can fir between the points you have isolated. Max

You got to the switch bit while I was typing my reply Greg. Also you may find that a loco you buy has an on/off switch for its motor(s) so you do not even need isolators when parking that on your future layout.
 
Kev Green said:
Thank you yes I’ve seen those and forgive me for being dim (but nice) but I understand that they would insulate part of the track but how would the engine power over it? To experienced G Scalers that might be a very stupid question but if I don’t ask I don't know
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You only need to insulate one rail, and I would recommend insulating the rail that suns through the frog; that way your inner rail connectivity will be uninterrupted ;);)
 
I've modified your plan. Yellow arrows show the (outer) rail where to put the yellow isolators in place of the joiners.

The common wire is gray which goes to the (inner) rail without isolators. Use a Double Pole Switch to select the loop you wish to power up ( or deselect power to the loop you want to isolate). These are the black wires on the diagram....

475679_A23E532A-18B5-4F27-984A-D8A9FC4249FF.png
 
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there is an outside possibility that a live frog if ever fitted could cause an issue, use insulators on both rails since you are not an expert.

It makes little sense to try to save the cost of 2 insulators.

You need a DPST (double pole single throw switch to connect to the "mainline"

Greg
 
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It is quite straighfirward to make an "isolating point" out of off the shelf LGB track components....

35622711-2A8F-462B-8A92-D44DD0D9A5CE.jpeg

Two isolating rails, and EPL point motor with accessory switch, and a point. Make sure that track power is feed from the entry side of the point (right hand side in the photo above).
 
Software Tools said:
It is quite straighfirward to make an "isolating point" out of off the shelf LGB track components....

View attachment 310437

Two isolating rails, and EPL point motor with accessory switch, and a point. Make sure that track power is feed from the entry side of the point (right hand side in the photo above).
Click to expand...
Nice little devices, and I used them when I had power rail, but they do not come cheap, even second-hand.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
there is an outside possibility that a live frog if ever fitted could cause an issue, use insulators on both rails since you are not an expert.

It makes little sense to try to save the cost of 2 insulators.

You need a DPST (double pole single throw switch to connect to the "mainline"

Greg
Click to expand...
I was thinking more of reducing the number of leads and connections - assuming that this was actually going to be installed outside - but again, as you say, at some time in the future ..........
 
If you do not want to use an epl motor, though these are just as happy to be hand worked.

The other option is to solder and wire a micro on/off switch into the isolators. Needs a hole in the sleeper to fit it. Just 1 each per loop then yellow Isolators the other end. Much as Gizzy has shown.
Software Tools said:
It is quite straighfirward to make an "isolating point" out of off the shelf LGB track components....

View attachment 310437

Two isolating rails, and EPL point motor with accessory switch, and a point. Make sure that track power is feed from the entry side of the point (right hand side in the photo above).
Click to expand...
As ever there are many ways to achieve the same objective.
 
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