Took a chance and bought a Merlin Mayflower

artfull dodger

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I have wanted a Merlin engine ever since I first got into live steam and read about Tag Gorton's line and his first engine Toni, a Merlin Mayflower. One has been on the USA ebay for some time. I passed it up once when I sold my LGB/Aster Frank S and bought a second hand Roundhouse Argyll. I didn't want my only live steamer to be one with no parts support. I was able to sell one of my garden tractors(I collect those as well), so I took those funds and bought the Mayflower off ebay. Hasn't been steamed in 25+ years, in good shape, RC is working and the son remembers it ran well for his late father back in the 1990's when it was last run. I should have it when tomorrows post arrives. Keeping my fingers crossed for no issues with the reversing valve or piston valve cylinders. I do have someone local that can do repair on small steam engines if it comes to that. Here is a pic I lifted from the auction, more when he arrives tomorrow. Mike.
 
Well it certainly is a very nice looking wee loco and Merlin had a good reputation when they were still trading so I don't think you could go too far wrong.
 
I would like to locate a replacement set of steam chests and piston valves for when the time comes. Milton Loco Works used to offer them, but not anymore. Mike
 
Nice conversion of one asset into another!
 
I have had 4 Merlin Live steamers in my time. The Mayflower I always though being the best looking of the bunch. There is just something about the lines that says Locomotive. This and the Monarch I had were both great runners but a bit tempramental with LGB Track as the wheels were cut to 10mm Fine Scale standards. To sort this I put slithers of 00 Code 100 Flat Bottom Rail in the Check Rail to widen it. This just brought the wheels over enough to stop them climbing the frog. The Shay never exhibited this problem, presumably as it was a Bogie Loco. My other was a Merlin Beck which had LGB Profiled wheels so no problem. My mod incidently did not cause any problems with LGB Wheels. All my Live Steam Merlins have now been sold on.

I do wish you well with this Locomotive, you may just be lucky and get a superb runner. Would suggest that you update the Radio if not already done, mine were all 27hz (I think that was the standard in the 80's when I got my Merlins).

EDIT as Dodger has said, mine were probably FM 75Mhz as in his one.

My final 2 Merlins were a Motor Mule that is in bits waiting a new Control System and a Huddy Hunslet that still performs well if noisily when asked.

I also still have a couple of Merlin Welshpool Pottery Buildings lurking in the Garden, the Acrylic Paint Job has served them well all these years. But I think that I probably ought to give them both a repaint this spring. Perhaps they will then do another 30 years in the Garden.
JonD
 
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This one has 75mhz FM radio in it. Which if it performs as well as my RC car's radios do, will be fine for awhile. With most everybody else on 2.4ghz for RC, even at the race track my older radio does just fine. I just stick out like a sore thumb with my huge antenna! But then again as an Aspie, I stick out anyways :) We shall see how he performs later today. I will make sure to run easy the first time on my layout since its all LGB track for awhile longer. Mike
 
This one has 75mhz FM radio in it. Which if it performs as well as my RC car's radios do, will be fine for awhile. With most everybody else on 2.4ghz for RC, even at the race track my older radio does just fine. I just stick out like a sore thumb with my huge antenna! But then again as an Aspie, I stick out anyways :) We shall see how he performs later today. I will make sure to run easy the first time on my layout since its all LGB track for awhile longer. Mike

Let me know if it does not run well. If so probably timing. I can send you the full timing details if req. Bestest Tag
 
I was watching this one on eBay and was quite tempted as I think it was very well priced, but I'm supposed to be selling not buying so I hope you got a very nice Loco............
 
Thanks Tag, she does run well on blocks, when weather hopefully permits later this week, I will try on the rails. Video attached(I hope). Forgive the messy desk, but I know where everything is at and my therapist says it an Aspie thing to have a messy work area, but know where its all at. There is a spare tap on the back head where I think I can fit the Regner whistle valve. I will need to source another servo so I can remotely control it. Those who just watched missed out, with some light buffing, she looks almost new with no major scratches in the paint work, the brass shined up nicely and she runs flawlessly on blocks. I wonder how many of these were produced? An old article in Steam in the Garden had some numbers for the real low production models, obviously this one and the saddle tank Monarch were more popular. Mike
 
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Looks like you have really lucked out and got a good one. I would certainly take up Tags offer of how to reset her Timing as they can and do drop out of sync on occasion and setting them up again is not intuative but easy if you know how. Enjoy your purchase, I know that I loved my one the years I had her.

Random pic of another Mayflower on the Ridgmont Club Layout some years back. Not my one. I did build the Water Tower though. Think it may still be on that layout.
image.jpeg
JonD
 
Great pic, so vintage in black and white. I would gladly accept the instructions on timing the valve gear, espicaly if I manage to source a replacement set of valves and chests for the eventual need to replace due to wear. They seem pretty tight right now, I do not think the engine has much run time on it, And I am very particular about my engines being clean and oiled. Being on the autism spectrum, everything I do has a routine, changing or skipping the routine gets me very upset. So each step gets done, every single time. After a run session, my alone time to recover is spent cleaning up my engines and getting them ready for the next run. I just have my own 2 to keep up with now, instead of putting run time on my friends engines. Not that he minded. Now I have to get his Regner Shay cleaned up and ready for the steam up later this month, we haven't ran that engine in a couple years, it does not tolerate my railway with its less than level and check railed curves. My line is much like Tag's was in the early years, just in 45mm gauge. Sourcing Peco 32mm in the states isnt cheap. I need to see how close thier set track curves match LGB R1 and R2 curve radius. I have some features and a couple of bridges that cannot be relocated. Conversion to 32mm track is the next major step on my railway. The LGB track has served me well for 15+ years of use, but it looks like one is running on girders and not the rail of a light narrow gauge railway. Keep the Merlin pics coming! Love them. Mike
 
Looks like there are 2 set track curve diameters, the ST-605 standard curve and the st 607. My railway has a S curve thru a short tunnel that is all radius 1, a curve between a tree and the retaining wall that is R1 and a R2 curve(used to be R1 just after a bridge. Rather not try to fasten down flex track in our climate(lots of frost heave every spring), as I float the track in ballest. I rework the track each spring, but going to try a concrete dust and grit ballest to encourge moss growth in places and to help hold it down better. Can I get away with the standard curves or should I get some of both and see what fits best? Mike
 
Here is a new pic now that I have polished up most of the brass work. I forgot the boiler bands, so the body will need to come off again so I can polish them up. She really shines nice now though. Her size suits my little railway so much better than the larger Argyll. Mike
 
Nice one. All this steam is whetting my appetite - I've told my better half that I intend to buy a loco this year! It must be nearly fifty years since I had an O gauge steamer.
 
Looks like there are 2 set track curve diameters, the ST-605 standard curve and the st 607. My railway has a S curve thru a short tunnel that is all radius 1, a curve between a tree and the retaining wall that is R1 and a R2 curve(used to be R1 just after a bridge. Rather not try to fasten down flex track in our climate(lots of frost heave every spring), as I float the track in ballest. I rework the track each spring, but going to try a concrete dust and grit ballest to encourge moss growth in places and to help hold it down better. Can I get away with the standard curves or should I get some of both and see what fits best? Mike
My Merlins ran with Midified 10mm Choppers in the early days. Then on my line in Hemel used Chain Couplings. Ok pulling round LGB R1 but not Pushing into Sidings. Big problem, these days I have settled on LGB Hook Couplings for simplicity and cheapness.

If you use LGB Couplings exclusively you should not have probkems with any if tge Peco Setrack. To me the Peco Setrack looks the equivalenr of LGB R1 and R2, but I would suggest you check the specs to be sure. You can always curve tge Yard Lengths but if you are not going to secure track down might be tricky.

If you are thinking of Moss to hold track in place, do not be tempted to encourage it with Tap Water. Only use Rain Water due to chemicals in Tap water that Moss does not like. You could also look at Lonicera/Mind Your Own Business/Babies Tears you should be able to find it with those 3 names. Makes great Weed Covered Track as can be seen on Tag Gortons Line.
JonD
 
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