Anyone got any offers for good track joiners?
Fed up of the crappy LGB ones that never work electrically after a season
Fed up of the crappy LGB ones that never work electrically after a season
Track Joiners
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PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
Massoth / GRS rail clamps.. - See Muns (Mark):
Massoth Brass Rail Clamp 19mm
Solid brass, extruded rail connector for all G-gauge tracks (in CODE 332), such as LGB, PIKO, TrainLine45, Aristocraft, etc.
www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Depends how many joints you have to do.
I rely on the Aristo/Bachmann screwed fishplates, and have also used these where joining Aristo to LGB (the 332 rail profile is very slightly different between the two makes - OK for bodgin a screwed fishplate, not always OK with an external clamp).
For LGB / LGB (where I purchased a quantity of second hand flexi) I have used Hillman rail clamps which are no longer available, so I'd go with Phil for the available Massoth clamps.
I rely on the Aristo/Bachmann screwed fishplates, and have also used these where joining Aristo to LGB (the 332 rail profile is very slightly different between the two makes - OK for bodgin a screwed fishplate, not always OK with an external clamp).
For LGB / LGB (where I purchased a quantity of second hand flexi) I have used Hillman rail clamps which are no longer available, so I'd go with Phil for the available Massoth clamps.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Rail clamps great for keeping your rails lined up and help minimise tarnishing of the rail's surfaces, where they connect. So don't forget to clean up the rail ends once you have got the old joiners off, nice and bright. Then paint on some of that LGB/Massoth graphite paste or something like Copperslip. That's the bit that will ensure better electrical conductivity over time as it minimises air/water/dirt ingress. That is the real culprit as that allows the brass to tarnish to the extent that you get voltage drop outs all over the place as those electrons can't get past all the accumulated muck. Max
LGB-Sid
Registered
I have just re-laid all my track using the Massoth rail clamps and what a difference it made , the Stainz I have used to stop start all over the place and they never got used really becaues of that, now their both quite happy to run from one end to the other with out a hicup 
I still need about another 50 to continue joining up more, I even yesterday removed the LGB fishplates of 6 brand new R2 curves and installed them with the Massoth clamps seemed a shame till I run it today and it was worth it.
I still need about another 50 to continue joining up more, I even yesterday removed the LGB fishplates of 6 brand new R2 curves and installed them with the Massoth clamps seemed a shame till I run it today and it was worth it.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Interesting, Max.
I've held the theory that you need the Copperslip / LGB / Massoth grease only when using LGB slide on joiners. By definition a slide on joiner will have a minute air gap and yes, the brass will tarnish.
I've mentioned before that when I went to lay my original Aristo track on my second layout - the first had been down for over six years I think - I took all of the screwed fishplates off to clean the track ends. I found that the track ends where the fishplates had been fixed in the factory were as bright and shiny as the day the track was delivered.
My conclusion is that, with screwed fishplates or with track clamps, where you have tight metal to metal contact as a result of the strong mechanical connection, the rails don't tarnish and there is no need for grease.
Just a personal, grease free, opinion
I've held the theory that you need the Copperslip / LGB / Massoth grease only when using LGB slide on joiners. By definition a slide on joiner will have a minute air gap and yes, the brass will tarnish.
I've mentioned before that when I went to lay my original Aristo track on my second layout - the first had been down for over six years I think - I took all of the screwed fishplates off to clean the track ends. I found that the track ends where the fishplates had been fixed in the factory were as bright and shiny as the day the track was delivered.
My conclusion is that, with screwed fishplates or with track clamps, where you have tight metal to metal contact as a result of the strong mechanical connection, the rails don't tarnish and there is no need for grease.
Just a personal, grease free, opinion
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I've done 10 year tests with no grease, regular grease, antisieze, and antioxidant. Clearly better with something in the joint. The design of the joiners and clamps plays a part of how contaminants get between the rail and joiner, but keeping air out is one of the major goals and that means grease of some type.
Different people have different experiences, and often that is a function of temperature swing as well as the differences between the mating surfaces.
My recommendation is wheel bearing grease, as it is lithium based here in the us, so helps protect from seizing and galling.
Greg
ps, this is with 850 feet of sectional track, DCC, and high current trains, about 10 feeders total
Different people have different experiences, and often that is a function of temperature swing as well as the differences between the mating surfaces.
My recommendation is wheel bearing grease, as it is lithium based here in the us, so helps protect from seizing and galling.
Greg
ps, this is with 850 feet of sectional track, DCC, and high current trains, about 10 feeders total
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
When I laid my first track 20 years ago, the tightwad in me said don't waste money on clamps, until you really need them. That original track is still down, with the original rail joiners, and working well. Every so often, I might put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in the gap, but that's it. OK, on the rare occassion where a joint has failed electrically, I do disassemble it, clean, squeeze up the joiner, and reapply. Nothing that's a hassle, and saves money for other purchases. I do have some strategic 'jump wires' soldered in, but these are more to prevent voltage drop.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
What track and what joiners please? I'm guessing LGB, the best fitting.
Gavin Sowry
Garden Railroader and Raconteur
Combination of Kiwitrack, and LGB.
Kiwitrack is a New Zealand made kitset flex track. Someone got brass rail rolled, similar to 332 LGB, and joiners (without the anchor tab). Locally produced plastic ties, pair of ties with spacer, easy on the postage, and 'make it yourself.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Yes, in my opinion, of the slide on joiners, LGB fit the most closely, i.e. better contact. Another clue of your success is that if you are using flextrack, then I'll bet you are using much longer sections of track than the traditional sectional track, and thus fewer joiners.
All factors.
Greg
All factors.
Greg
Paul,
I have a few in stock (~450) of the Massoth 19mm rail clamps, give me a ring, email or message me....
I have a few in stock (~450) of the Massoth 19mm rail clamps, give me a ring, email or message me....
Massoth Brass Rail Clamp 19mm
Solid brass, extruded rail connector for all G-gauge tracks (in CODE 332), such as LGB, PIKO, TrainLine45, Aristocraft, etc.
gardenrailoutlet.co.uk
dennishodge
Registered
The Massoth clamps look identical to the ones sold in the USA by Trainli. I’m using the nickel plated variant.
They work fine but...
Would it have killed someone to have provided Phillips head screws instead of these flat headed hellions? Or Torx/star drive...
They work fine but...
Would it have killed someone to have provided Phillips head screws instead of these flat headed hellions? Or Torx/star drive...
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I think the logic of using those is is that one is forced to use a flat headed screw driver (yes I know you can get bits for electric ones but they tend to slip) thus ensuring that things are not too overtightened. These are made from brass and it is possible with too much force to break the screws. How do I know this? Need you ask. And yes on an electric screwdriver you could put the clutch on but you still have the issue of the bit wanting to jump out of the slot.
dennishodge
Registered
There seems to be some variance in rail foot width, so starting the screws is such a royal pain in the caboose (since the screw is tight against the rail). Wobbling screw, slipping screwdriver, dropping screw in the dirt. Ugh. But they do seem to hold well, and the dual rail bender slides right over the top of them.
on my indoor layout each piece of track across baseboard joins is fixed in place with the normal Hillman clamps. But if I ever want to exhibit the layout then I have to undo all 22 clamps, then refit them before running any trains. Clearly this is going to be a pain.
I’ve got some Hillman ‘lift out‘ clamps which I use for the board which has to be lifted out to access the layout. Does anyone still make lift out clamps?
I’ve got some Hillman ‘lift out‘ clamps which I use for the board which has to be lifted out to access the layout. Does anyone still make lift out clamps?
Never bother, most of my track is ballasted with small ballast and glued. Some places I get a little bit of movement where the track is in full sun but nothing to be concerned about. This unbalasted section is known to move to the sides a bit which is why it has the bits of Hips to stop too much movement towards the drop. As you can see in full sun now for a couple of hoypurs with no sign of deflection.
