Tram Traction Layout Advice

[Madman]

What do you think of this idea for an indoor traction layout. I have only about 5' x 11' to work with. I thought I'd leave one end open and operate the layout from the center. I could have passenger shelters at the passing sidings, a car barn and some industry at the remaining stub end sidings.

 

[No72]

looks good to me... gives scope to use a variety of poles for overhead...

 

[Madman]

looks good to me... gives scope to use a variety of poles for overhead...

I see that you have done some work on your Bachmann trolley poles, changing the sliders to wheels. Can you show some detailed photos of how you did the work ?

 

[dunnyrail]

What do you think of this idea for an indoor traction layout. I have only about 5' x 11' to work with. I thought I'd leave one end open and operate the layout from the center. I could have passenger shelters at the passing sidings, a car barn and some industry at the remaining stub end sidings.

View attachment 242469

Looks just the job, R1's will work just fine for a Tramway Layout. As for Industry suggest short wagons perhaps Toy Train or Bachman Litle Haulers, these can all be tarted up with a bit of work to look just great. Though I do hope your girth will fit OK in the just over 12 inch gap to the centre of the line! Perhaps loosing one making the longer siding straight at the bottom right side will help a little. this would lose very little Track Space for stock, perhaps less than one single length.

 

[idlemarvel]

At the right hand end if it was me I would have one longer straight "headshunt" rather than two shorter curved ones. It would make access easier too.

 

[dunnyrail]

At the right hand end if it was me I would have one longer straight "headshunt" rather than two shorter curved ones. It would make access easier too.

I think that will be where his Car Barn may be?

 

[No72]

I see that you have done some work on your Bachmann trolley poles, changing the sliders to wheels. Can you show some detailed photos of how you did the work ?

Yes I can... But there is more to it than that. Bachmann poles dont conduct electricity as they are. To overcome that I replace the mounting screw with a brass pin that fits in a bush glued through a hole in the roof where the screw was. Then a wire needs to be soldered to the pin and to the base of the pole to conduct electricity. I have 3 types of ends, skid with graphite insert, wheels and swiveling head as per Hong Kong style. Naturally as always I go for the most complex method to make anything... My wheels rotate on 3mmOD ball bearings, I tried a simple pin and hole and didn't like it. the harp that holds the wheels is made of a short length of 3mm sq tube with a slot for the wheel filed into it and a short length of 3/32" round tube with neatly slides over the 1/16" pole. Let me dig up some photos.... If you want 3mmod bearings they are available on eBay 681ZZ;

 

[Madman]

At the right hand end if it was me I would have one longer straight "headshunt" rather than two shorter curved ones. It would make access easier too.

That sounds like a good idea. As I look at the plan in it's present form, I can see where trying to fit some sort of building on the right end might make access difficult. I will play around with the design later today.

 

[Madman]

Yes I can... But there is more to it than that. Bachmann poles dont conduct electricity as they are. To overcome that I replace the mounting screw with a brass pin that fits in a bush glued through a hole in the roof where the screw was. Then a wire needs to be soldered to the pin and to the base of the pole to conduct electricity. I have 3 types of ends, skid with graphite insert, wheels and swiveling head as per Hong Kong style. Naturally as always I go for the most complex method to make anything... My wheels rotate on 3mmOD ball bearings, I tried a simple pin and hole and didn't like it. the harp that holds the wheels is made of a short length of 3mm sq tube with a slot for the wheel filed into it and a short length of 3/32" round tube with neatly slides over the 1/16" pole. Let me dig up some photos.... If you want 3mmod bearings they are available on eBay 681ZZ; View attachment 242479View attachment 242479View attachment 242480View attachment 242481View attachment 242482View attachment 242479View attachment 242480View attachment 242481View attachment 242482

Great photos. Later today I will study your text further. Those ball bearing wheels are, well, like.....It was an its bits teeny weeny yellow polkadot bikini.....

 

[Madman]

Yes I can... But there is more to it than that. Bachmann poles dont conduct electricity as they are. To overcome that I replace the mounting screw with a brass pin that fits in a bush glued through a hole in the roof where the screw was. Then a wire needs to be soldered to the pin and to the base of the pole to conduct electricity. I have 3 types of ends, skid with graphite insert, wheels and swiveling head as per Hong Kong style. Naturally as always I go for the most complex method to make anything... My wheels rotate on 3mmOD ball bearings, I tried a simple pin and hole and didn't like it. the harp that holds the wheels is made of a short length of 3mm sq tube with a slot for the wheel filed into it and a short length of 3/32" round tube with neatly slides over the 1/16" pole. Let me dig up some photos.... If you want 3mmod bearings they are available on eBay 681ZZ;

I found the ball bearings on Ebay but they are all iron. Yours appear to be brass. Did you create the groove in them ?

 

[Madman]

I made two changes. First, on the left I straightened the siding so a more substantial structure could be placed between it and the curve. Second, I changed the sidings on the upper right. The two straight sidings could be covered with the car barn. The curved siding could hold a piece of rolling stock.

 

[No72]

I found the ball bearings on Ebay but they are all iron. Yours appear to be brass. Did you create the groove in them ?

The bearings are pushed into the brass wheel that has the groove machined into it... They are stainless so won't rust if used outdoors and the wheels are very smooth in operation.

 

[Madman]

The bearings are pushed into the brass wheel that has the groove machined into it... They are stainless so won't rust if used outdoors and the wheels are very smooth in operation.

Did you machine the brass wheels ?

 

[No72]

Did you machine the brass wheels ?

Yes, from brass rod. Drilled a 2.9mm hole on centre and pulled the drill bit to one side just to make a hole that the bearing could be lightly pushed into and machined a groove on the rim then part off...

 

[No72]

View attachment 242538

I made two changes. First, on the left I straightened the siding so a more substantial structure could be placed between it and the curve. Second, I changed the sidings on the upper right. The two straight sidings could be covered with the car barn. The curved siding could hold a piece of rolling stock.

Looks good for an American streetcar layout. If it was British, or Australian you would have to include track eccentricities like gauntlet track under bridges or on curves and the down track veers to the side across the up track and then does a U turn across both for an intermediate terminus...