Turning an LGB 50600 truss into a deck bridge

Mik

Steam tractors, good books, scratchbuilding models
There is only one bridge on my line that has continually given me trouble. The plow on the old #5 c-16 used to scrape, the pilot on the connie too. So I probably shouldn't have surprised that the new plow loco hung up on it... Perhaps it WAS bad planning that led me to put the bridge so close to the curve, or just maybe necessity (drainage of the mine area was my main concern)
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So anyway, I decided the best way to solve the problem was to put the trusses underneath making it into a deck bridge. Normal folks might have just flipped the bridge over - of course, I had to do it the hard way. I cut the truss pieces off and remounted them on the bottom of the deck... I used both Plumbing Goop and screws - since a bridge failure usually leads to a Gomez Addams type moment
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Cross bracing is Plastruct H-beam
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I decided that it probably needed walkway railings (in case of derailment) 1/4" square wood and wire was cheap and easy. And the soft steel wire looks pre- beat up
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The spot where things were hanging up required a bit of reconfiguring. A safety platform at the end of the bridge may not make sense prototypically, but it should serve well enough to get the plow swung around.... I may eventually add a flight of steps to give it a 'purpose'.
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The other railing. I used nearly 50 screws altogether on one 18" bridge!
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quicky paint job. Winter should take care of the 'weathering', lol!
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Total conversion time? About 3 hours. Most of it twirling a pin vice.
 
Re-installed on the layout.
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I thought I'd bring this nifty little item to your attention. It's an inexpensive ($2) line level. The recesses on the bottom are just right for it to straddle the rails, and it fits easily in your shirt pocket - makes checking your cross level and superelevation a breeze! (the color being bright enough so you can find it, doesn't hurt either...)
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Clearance issue solved!
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Since railroads are big on standardization, I figure the bridge's unmodified brother needed painted to match. Actually an improvement over the original grey anyway
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I found it at True Value in their crap (so cheap you sometimes use once and toss) tool bin. But allegedly Sears has them for the princely sum of 94c! They're made by Stanley
 
Thanks for this nice story. But why are you using these disturbing Photo Bucket signs? It ruins your nice pics!
As an alternative instead of cutting the top of the bridge I printed it in sections using TINKERCAD and a philament 3D printer
with a 22x22 cm base plate.Bridge Top Left and Right back.png
 
Thanks for this nice story. But why are you using these disturbing Photo Bucket signs? It ruins your nice pics!
As an alternative instead of cutting the top of the bridge I printed it in sections using TINKERCAD and a philament 3D printer
with a 22x22 cm base plate.View attachment 335244
Gerard

You have to remember this thread is 13 years old, not many home based 3D printers about in those days. I suspect the watermark on the photos is because the original poster stopped paying Photobucket to store his photos, this was a problem with quite a few similar 'Pay to Store' companies, a few years back. They jacked up their prices and held customers to ransom, a few Forum members lost all their stored photos because of it. For that reason, I only ever store my photos on my own computer, regularly backed up with two external hard drives, one of which is stored in a fire resistant box.

David
 
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