Uncoupling Ramp/Track

JimmyB

JimmyB

Now retired - trains and fishing
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My understanding is there are two types of LGB Uncoupling ramp 10520, which is a passive uncoupler, i.e. slow and stop over it and the hook and bar should uncouple, and the electric operated in which you stop over the ramp operate it and it should uncouple.
First are my assumptions broadly correct. I assume the passive one being permanently raised could cause unwanted uncoupling, and a bit "hit and miss" if it works, and as such the electric one would seem more suitable, so what does it need to operate (power wise), I see it can be operated by the LGB 51755 (turnout control box), so it would seem it is a pulse, is that one pulse to raise one pulse to lower, and if so will my Revolution Accessory module power it.
Any advice or guidance would be appreciated :)
 
If your Revolution Accessory module can switch EPL switch motors then it should be able to handle the 2 wire Electric uncouplers.
 
I have just acquired a non electric uncoupler in a job lot bought last week. At first glance it seems like the later Tri-ang and Hornby ones with a sprung piece in the middle. Decades of using the Tri-ang and Hornby versions have resulted in very few accidental uncouplings as the tension lock couplings keep things together when running over them even at slow speed. The hooks on the LGB move downwards as opposed to the Hornby upwards but I am optimistic that they should be similarly efficient.

Paul
 
I used the manual (non powered) ramps in pairs, as I have double hooking on all my rolling stock.

I find that you can draw a train over them without uncoupling, as the hooks are in tension.

To uncouple, you have to shunt back slightly to take the tension off, then the hooks will drop down.

This You Toob video shows how on my previous layout....

 
With the manual uncoupler, the speed of the train is important. Go slowly over the uncoupler and the first truck or coach will uncouple from the loco. Go quickly over it (it doesn't need to be too quick) and nothing will uncouple. Using Gizzy's method, you effectively choose your truck and then go slowly over the uncoupler
 
Gizzy said:
I used the manual (non powered) ramps in pairs, as I have double hooking on all my rolling stock.

I find that you can draw a train over them without uncoupling, as the hooks are in tension.

To uncouple, you have to shunt back slightly to take the tension off, then the hooks will drop down.
Click to expand...
After seeing the video I may just try a couple of passive uncouplers, as I am also "double hooked"
 
When I had a terminal station I used 2 non powered uncoupling ramps. Drive into the station, back up to the uncoupler & then pull forward. It worked almost faultlessly. There was a shunter with a pole trackside showing where to reverse up to. I think he is still there even now it is a through station.
 
We tried the permanent ones on the Ruschbahn and stopped using them. We only attempted their use in the fiddle yarrd which as a low level one below a station was a bit tricky to uncouple locomotives. As we had no hook on the locs it seamed obvious that uncoupling should have occured without fail but it never did so we took them out. Thinking things through over the years the failure may have been because we drop the loops on locomotives to give near faultless running with no decoupling. All stock was double hooked, I use this method also and never had any luck the the permanent uncoupler either.
 
My old Hornby ones never seemed to work, but the ones I've seen in use at exhibitions appear to work, so I don't know what I was doing wrong
 
Paul M said:
My old Hornby ones never seemed to work, but the ones I've seen in use at exhibitions appear to work, so I don't know what I was doing wrong
Click to expand...
Going back to 00 as we appear to have drifted on a small 00 layout I built I converted all the couplings to Spratt and Winkle as this was all the rage with show layouts at the time (late 70’s). I found them to be perfection and with the delayed uncoupling feature now present on these fine couplings they are still a thing to be beat for looks. Dont get me wrong KD’s which are much of the rage these days look and work great on a US layout, but for English 4 wheel wagons of old look orrible IMHO.
 
Hi Jimmy,

Be wary of using the manual uncoupler on a mainline. 99.9% of the time there will be no problems. Take your eyes off and the wagons will uncouple! I'm running symmetric LGB hook & loop myself. I put an electric - manual uncoupler pair on my main loop earlier this year. Twice, of course while I was otherwise preoccupied, I had wagons unintentionally uncouple with the expected consequences!o_Oo_Oo_O I've since replaced the manual uncoupler with a second slightly modified LGB electric uncoupler. See this post by me:Dual LGB 10560 electric uncouplers No further problems!

LIke Mark said, the LGB 10560 electric uncouplers are operated by an EPL drive so any power source that will work with a LGB electric turnout will operate the uncoupler. The uncoupler drive is polarity sensitive like all EPL drives. After all, it is really just a DC motor! A pulse of one polarity raises the ramp, a pulse of the opposite polarity will lower it. It remains in whichever position it is set, up or down.
 
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phils2um said:
Hi Jimmy,

Be wary of using the manual uncoupler on a mainline. 99.9% of the time there will be no problems. Take your eyes off and the wagons will uncouple! I'm running symmetric LGB hook & loop myself. I put an electric - manual uncoupler pair on my main loop earlier this year. Twice, of course while I was otherwise preoccupied, I had wagons unintentionally uncouple with the expected consequences!o_Oo_Oo_O I've since replaced the manual uncoupler with a second slightly modified LGB electric uncoupler. See this post by me:Dual LGB 10560 electric uncouplers No further problems!

LIke Mark said, the LGB 10560 electric uncouplers are operated by an EPL drive so any power source that will work with a LGB electric turnout will operate the uncoupler. The uncoupler drive is polarity sensitive like all EPL drives. After all, it is really just a DC motor! A pulse of one polarity raises the ramp, a pulse of the opposite polarity will lower it. It remains in whichever position it is set, up or down.
Click to expand...


"Be wary of using the manual uncoupler on a mainline. 99.9% of the time there will be no problems. Take your eyes off and the wagons will uncouple! "

I 2nd this 100%
 
When I was running my EPL setup I remember LGB saying put 1 electric uncoupler then 1 mechanical uncoupler next to each other, then all will be sweetness and light. Dunno if that is so as the elctric uncouplers were too expensive for my pocket so I left the shunting until the end of the day (lifting the stock off the track :D )
 
I had always assumed that the electric uncoupler was to be used as follows.

1. Stop the train with the coupling of the wagon to be uncoupled over the uncoupler.

2. Operate the uncoupler, i.e. bring it to the raised position.

3. Draw the loco/rest of the train clear.

However, from what I remember of the instructions (I don't have them to hand), the process isn't described like that.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Right, that's wrong... ;)

You can use it many ways, but almost all methods involve a slight reversal to eliminate tension on the couplers of interest to allow them to separate. Virtually all automatic couplers need this, so you don't separate a moving train.

Greg
Click to expand...
With the smaller scale Tri-ang ones the trick was to slow down but the the final stop would be abrupt meaning the stock keeps moving a bit to loosen the coupling hooks.

Paul
 
playmofire said:
I had always assumed that the electric uncoupler was to be used as follows.

1. Stop the train with the coupling of the wagon to be uncoupled over the uncoupler.

2. Operate the uncoupler, i.e. bring it to the raised position.

3. Draw the loco/rest of the train clear.

However, from what I remember of the instructions (I don't have them to hand), the process isn't described like that.
Click to expand...
I've found that my 10560 EPL powered LGB uncouplers need to be raised when there are no coupler hooks restricting their movement. The EPL drives don't have enough power to fully throw the uncoupling ramp if it has to push on a coupler hook too. This may be due to the extra resistance imposed by the LGB 1203 auxiliary switches I put on that turn on the mast light when the ramp is up.

This is my uncoupling process:

1. Stop the train with the wagon to be uncoupled straddling the uncoupler(s).
2. Raise the uncoupler ramp.
3. Slowly back the train into position over the uncoupling ramp(s).
4. Pull the train forward to uncouple the cars.
5. Repeat 3 and 4 as necessary if the train was not correctly positioned to affect uncoupling. Usually only required if I'm lounging on the patio with appropriate cold beverage while running trains! ;):devil:

I've also found that a single wagon will almost always uncouple if it is slowly pulled over the ramps. It depends entirely on the tension on the coupler hooks.
 
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Many thanks for the responses, I have ordered a couple of passive uncouplers, which I will try on a loop, and see how it moves from then. Having received the first (ordered from different sellers), I can now see how these operate. I will keep you all informed.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
So, it seems you changed your mind a bit, your first post mentioned unwanted uncoupling with passive units, but you are going to try 2 of them.
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Yes I read what was said, which is why I asked the question, and I am open to suggestions.
Greg Elmassian said:
Are these going on the main line, or somewhere where stopping and random uncoupling won't cause you to tear out your hair?
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If you read my previous response, oh you have, but not properly, I have said I am giving them a trial on a loop.

I will then be able to make my own decisions.
 
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