USA Trains 44 Ton Locomotive ?????

Madman

Madman

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I picked up a USA Trains 44 ton loco recently. It was a half completed repaint, but like new otherwise. Since I run battery power, I dismantled the loco and removed the electronics. In the process I removed the pick-up skates, thin spring wire contacts inside each motor block and cut the wires that were soldered to the journals.

All went according to Hoyle until I tried to reassemble the motor block lower covers. What a PITA that was. There are brass bearings that are square-ish. These fit into the upper portion of the motor blocks as well as the lower portion. Because of the sprung side frames, the axles kept pushing up, causing the brass bearings to turn so that they would not stay in the slots allotted for them. Each time I very carefully aligned the bearings with the slots in the upper motor block casting, then tried putting the lower motor block cover on, the bearings would move or turn slightly. This prevented the lower motor block cover from seating.

After a few attempts with each motor block, I finally was successful. Having only two hands and ten fingers was a handicap to the process.

Has anyone else dismantled and reassembled one of these beasts ? If so, is there a secret code to use to make reassembly easier ?
 
You must actually remove the motor block from the side frames. So you can get the bottom plate OFF and ON again easily.
2 accessible screws either side hold it to the cradle.
You can either remove the side frames from the cradle on both sides to let the axles ends out of the bearings, or gently spread the side frames a bit to let the axles out.

Then lay the truck upside down on a flat surface and remove the bottom plate.
First thing to do is check the splines on each gearset either side. If not cracked you are extremely lucky. If they are cracked they must be fixed. Plenty of info on how to do that. I have a pdf somewhere. If I can find it I will post it here.
As well as the skates you can also take out those thin piano wire springs inside the block. They are not needed.
I unsolder all the truck wiring too.
 
A TINY amount of grease can hold things (just-enough) to get them back together..

The 'Anglo-Saxon verbal-lubrication' is also used in abundance! :(;):giggle::giggle::giggle:
 
Tony Walsham said:
You must actually remove the motor block from the side frames. So you can get the bottom plate OFF and ON again easily.
2 accessible screws either side hold it to the cradle.
You can either remove the side frames from the cradle on both sides to let the axles ends out of the bearings, or gently spread the side frames a bit to let the axles out.

Then lay the truck upside down on a flat surface and remove the bottom plate.
First thing to do is check the splines on each gearset either side. If not cracked you are extremely lucky. If they are cracked they must be fixed. Plenty of info on how to do that. I have a pdf somewhere. If I can find it I will post it here.
As well as the skates you can also take out those thin piano wire springs inside the block. They are not needed.
I unsolder all the truck wiring too.
Click to expand...


That seemed like an idea until I envisioned trying to get the side frames back on with the wheels already inlace and the bottom motor block plate fastened. It seemed, in my mind's eye, that the side frames would not fit onto the axles and over the studs that align the sides frames without risking breaking something.
 
So take the side frames off.
The truck can then be easily removed and replaced.
Once the axles are secured inside the block they ain't going anywhere.
 
Thanks Tony. If and when I need to replace those USA Trains finicky axles, I'll give it a go using your suggestion.
 
I had not thought of the side frame idea. I had the same problem rebuilding both motor blocks. My solution was to keep aligning the bushings and trying again. I didn't count, but I think 12 or 15 tries did the trick on each block. The gears on each axle were split. Sturdier Delrin (I think) replacement gears are available at NWSL. I, however, went with regular replacement axles that included gears, wheels and bushings and were cheaper.

I also had read that the axles with traction tires were more likely to crack, so I replaced all the axles with the plain (no traction) ones (R22-170). On my track this hasn't been a problem, but I have only pulled two or three cars.
 
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The trick is remove blocks from the trucks... put a rubber band on both ends of each axle, under the motor block, this will hold the axle in place.

Be absolutely sure you know which of the 2 ways the square bushing fits. Put it in wrong and you normally destroy gears. The "rule" is different for different motor blocks.

Check my site.

Greg
 
"Be absolutely sure you know which of the 2 ways the square bushing fits. Put it in wrong and you normally destroy gears."

Please say a little more about this. The bushings I have look entirely symmetrical. I don't readily see a right and wrong way. If I put them in the right way it was luck. Thanks.

 
They can fit into the motor blocks two ways. when looking at the block from the underside, flat parallel to the motor block lid, or the point up.

https://www.elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=648&Itemid=893

This picture is the flat mode:
coveroff.jpg


Greg
 
I recall two 44-tonners that I purchased new. Both arrived with cracked gear muffs. I disassembled to determine and fix the issue and upon reassembly the drives would hardly move. I found that I had to loosen off the lower cover mount screws on each block and then the drive worked fine. These locomotives were quickly dispensed with and no more USA Trains locomotives were purchased.
 
Both 44 tonners I have were purchased new and had the "split axle" problem. Easy to fix as I put on my site. Poor that the problem has been forever.

Tim, you reassembled them with the bushings incorrectly located, bottom line. At least a warning about this should be really put in their manual. Also having different bushing orientations on different models is just stupid, but it is what it is.

Greg
 
So far as I am aware the two axle power trucks all have the bushes in line with the chassis block and the three axle bogies have bushes in a "diamond" shape or pointy bit up.

Split gears can be fixed but I have had few problems. I think it was mainly the earlier production that had a lot of problems. My 44 tonner hasn't split a gear yet and doesn't seem to be to bad at pulling...
 
If the bushings are not fitted in with a flat side up the motor cover will not seat properly. So I refer to seigezpf's comment.

I have started a kit bash with my 44 ton loco. I thought the original cab to be too small when compared to my other locos which are mostly LGB. So I am fabricating a larger cab using 1/4" plexiglass. here are a couple of pictures of my progress. The hoods are being modified to accept the new cab. As you can see, I have cut off part of the lip where the original cab slid into. The cab is sitting upside down waiting for the epoxy to set.

IMG_5277.jpg IMG_5278.jpg
 
A bit more progress on the beast today. I also decided to send for some new drive wheel sets. I noticed that the plastic was split on three axles. I did try and do some repair work by drilling through the plastic and axle. then I inserted 1/16" brass rod into the drilled hole. It prevents the wheel from slipping but the wheels wobble a bit. I don't quite understand the reasoning behind the design. Maybe there wasn't any.

Anyway here are some pics of my progress. The last photo is before painting. I still need to do some detailing. Hand rails, doors, etc.

IMG_5296.jpg IMG_5297.jpg IMG_5287.jpg
 
Very nice modification Dan. That changes the appearance entirely and makes a unique and interesting loco. Am I right that USA trains are standard gauge? Your modification looks like it will fit right in as narrow gauge.
 
Yes, I believe USA Trains are all models of standard gauge trains. Thanks for your kind words.
 
Hi Dan. You are welcome. Not only do I admire your work, but I'm going to steal your idea (I hope that is OK). I ended up with a spare 44 ton body with no idea what to do with it. Now I know. You inspired me. I'm going to try my hand at converting it to a narrow gauge look. That looks like a fun project.
 
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