2.4 GHz for dummies

I've used Electronize speed controllers in all my r/c conversions and I've been very happy with them. I use two 7.2v batteries so 14.4v in total and this is ample for all the Bachmann and LGB chassis I use. I have a garratt with two Stainz chassis and this runs for hours on one charge and my line isn't flat at all.

In terms of controlling more than one train at once, if you choose to go down the Planet T5 route you can drive one loco from the right stick and one from the left. Very easy to set up and fairly easy to control two at the same time. I've used this method with a few locos so I promise it works!
 
Operating two trains at once always seems to be a neat idea, until you try it and discover a wreck is only a matter of time; especially if there is any kind of distraction, like other people watching and/or talking to you. However, there are many times that I have a train running on the mainline and I need to do some switching or moving of a train in the yards. Hence, my latest control system, the http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/DelTapparo/RailBoss_Plus.htm < Link To RailBoss Plus, does provide the means for operating two trains at the same time. It will also accept input voltage up to 30V.
 
whatlep said:
Granitechops said:
Peter, have you got the keyfob type or the 'small transmitter' type?
did read on one of the threads that one user had problems with "out of sight" operation

I do like the idea behind the 'small transmitter' as to operation as opposed to tnhe 'Large' R/C type handset!!
I do like also the "halt/resume" feature
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I have the "small transmitter" type, as does Mel (yb281). I think Bram uses the keyfob type. No problems with range or slow speed operation. In fact the slow-speed performance is better than analogue or DCC on default speed settings. As with all devices, it pays to read the instructions and set up to your needs if the defaults don't suit, though you can run "out of the box" quite happily, which is what I did at first.

I should point out that I have no connection with Cliff Barker other than as a very impressed customer. Indeed so impressed I recently ordered a second set-up so I can run two trains indoors without the dust from graphite pickups. :cool:

Like Mel, I believe in thorough testing, involving the family. Using the cordless phone's intercom facility and pressing buttons on a black box while standing in the lane outside in my slippers has made sure that no-one in the village hangs around for a chat..... :confused: :bigsmile:
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I have kefobs, but I now use the mini TX's for the Halt/Resume buttons
 
Thanks for all the imput so far, very informative
Question
does anyone have experience of this product
Etronix ex2g 2 channel 2.4 ghz FHSS proportional radio system
found at
http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?productId=0000005768
I have found a local shop that a few in stock at only £30
seems a good price but what quality any one bought one or used one?

PS
what does the 'pulse' bit mean as to motors in our engines?
 
Granitechops said:
does anyone have experience of this product
Etronix ex2g 2 channel 2.4 ghz FHSS proportional radio system
seems a good price but what quality any one bought one or used one?
Click to expand...
Not directly, but there are a number of cheapish types around.
I have couple of "FlySky" versions. One was faulty and had to be returned for replacement.
The return postage negated any saving over Planet. They both now work well enough.
A point worth noting, the power requirements are often 8 x AA vs Planet's 4 meaning higher running costs.
 
Granitechops said:
So whats the 'pulse' bit?
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I think it concerns the method of coding the signals from Tx to Rx.
Willing to be corrected. (not physically!)

OK Tony/Ross, I guess I'm corrected.
 
ROSS said:
Granitechops said:
So whats the 'pulse' bit?
I have LGB stainz as base power units for the garratt
( read the title again :rolf: )
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Once you start enquiring Don..it all gets very technical the further you go into it and then you have to ask more questions and you get more different answers and then you give up:rolf::rolf:
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Well I am interested in how & why things work (or dont work!), but I am not a Teckie
so perhaps I should rephrase the question
Are pulse supplies suitable for all the types of motors that we might use?
Off the top of my head there are brushless motors, & motors with brushes, etc
I have never had reason to delve into the minuatae of the differences as to R/C with them.
Just hoping that by asking the right questions I might avoid giving myself grief
when I do something stupid, & someone with lots of experience in the field says, "I thought everyone knew that!!"
 
Virtually every ESC uses a Modulated Pulse Width (aka PWM) waveform to drive the motor(s) rather than flat line linear DC.
This is not the same as pulse power where an AC waveform is sometimes injected into linear DC to assist at motor start up.
At low frequencies, say 100 Hz this PWM can be heard as a buzzing coming from the motors. As the frequency rises so does the pitch of the buzz which becomes a hum and then a whistle until it can no longer be heard by most people above about 10 KHz.
Manufacturers use PWM as it permits the output drivers to be quite small and if the waveform is correctly designed, will stop the output transistors (FET's) from overheating.
PWM is generally quite safe to use with regular motors but it can sometimes cause some overheating at the motor. It is always a good idea to have some air space around the motor to help it stay cool.
PWM should not be used with (so called) coreless insrtument motors such as Faulhaber unless the frequency is above 8 KHz.
 
Next question
ESC
Electronic Speed Controllers
it was mentioned that some have inbuilt direction ie the R/C receiver message works the speed/ forward/reverse all on one channel
without a separate channel for reversing, or even a physical F/R switch
havent seen any specs signifying that spec
I would be looking for an ESC that could handle 24v input
 
Granitechops said:
Wow, some heavy duty stuff... Out of my price range!!
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Look around the dreaded eAuction site.
I've had a few for around £20-30.
Designed for cars, they don't always have reverse, or it's at a slower rate.
If there's space, you can use a mini servo with a DIY fork fitted to the horn, operating a DPDT switch for changing direction.
This means two channel control - one for speed one for direction.
I'm sure there have been other posts about this method.
 
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