A strange wiring phenomenon

phils2um said:
I used some 40 year old 18 awg speaker wire for one set of sensor leads on my reverse loop module. The zip-cord wire insulation was clear and the multi-strand conductors were differentiated by one being tinned copper and the other bare. I had no trouble soldering a lug onto the tinned conductor. Trying to solder a lug to the bare conductor was a whole different animal! The bare conductor was obviously well oxidized. It was dark brown instead of a bright copper color. I ended up cutting the wire back almost a foot to get to wire that could be soldered. Even then it took alot more heat and flux than the tinned conductor.
I have had pretty good results using an AMTECH paste flux NC-559-ASM for electrical/electronic applications. I've tried a liquid rosin flux from GC electronics but the AMTECH paste works much better for me.
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Seems like a similar story, I only went for the said wire because of the distance I thought I needed to cover from my furthest point/isolated siding. That siding has now evolved into the line to my second reverse loop, so now not essential to be isolated. The wire seems to be ok as long as it’s not regularly moved, I have two pieces that plug into my controller from my switch box, these are sprung connectors ,and are disconnected at the end of every session.
The weather down here seems set for a long wet winter again, so the running sessions are likely to be few and far between. Luckily my 00 layout is immune from the ravages of Cornish weather.
Think I am one of the “increased interest in garden railways” people caused by the lock down and the glorious month of sunshine in May. However I will persevere:rolleyes:
 
It really boils down to the fact that we all use cable that is really intended for indoor use, so unless it is always kept dry (some hope) it will deteriorate over time
 
Paul M said:
It really boils down to the fact that we all use cable that is really intended for indoor use, so unless it is always kept dry (some hope) it will deteriorate over time
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But "proper" external-grade cable is really messy to work with! - 'Icky-Pick' gets everywhere!! :(:eek:

**'Icky-Pick' is a pet-name for jelly-like substance that telecomms cables are filled with..

PhilP.
 
Yes I have also had the 'disappearing' wire syndrome due to corrosion.
What I do now is to coat any new soldered or mechanical connection to track, (or DCC control modules left outside like autoreversers), with a dollop of thick grease.
I have also used clear plumbers silicon sealant.
So far the wire has ceased to disappear and no joint has corroded...... but we have had a pretty wet month so far so I will be checking again!
 
I don't have a lot of wiring, but for the main feeds I've used crimped connections (including the cooker cable)

The only damp related failure that I've had so far was a toggle switch for isolating one of the loops, and that was after 10 years service plus four years storage in an outside bunker. Seen here newly installed on the first railroad - they were soon protected by the water tower, where they have remained ever since on both railroads.

Note, I've upgraded the method of connecting the wires to the track on the current railroad, by fixing the crimped connectors to the side of a rail clamp. KISS :)

DSCF0001d.JPG
 
One piece of "wisdom" gathered over 20 years doing track power, different people have different conditions that affect corrosion.

Just like the endless controversy over track cleaning, what works for some may not work for others.

So when I make a recommendation, I try to find the most bulletproof method (within reason) I can think of, making the supposition that this will have the greatest chance of success.

I would not use grease, since it can wash away, I use stainless screws whenever I can. If I must expose a wire, I try to make it the largest solid I can (thus minimizing surface area vs stranded).

The spray on/brush on "liquid rubber" has been very helpful for many people.

Greg
 
I was introduced to "waterproof grease" used by plumbers in college when the plumber fixing the radiator in my dorm room got it on one of my towels... but sort of detracting from the grease issue, while some may be very resistant to the washing machine, it can still be displaced by dirt, rocks, water etc, i.e. not guaranteed to be waterproof.

The rubber coating, once on, is impermiable.

Greg
 
Once I got into Track Clamps where possible I would strip the wire end, make a loop that was tinned. This would then be secured to the rail using the clamp screw all cob]versed with LGB Graphite Paste. Whilst there has been some staining no loss of power was noted. Some one one here also suggested trying to ensure that the begining of the plastic was melted to discourage egress of dampness. Gave up on track power before testing that one out.
 
Tinning the end of the stranded wire, so it tins "up into the jacket" will make a huge difference in moisture getting in under the insulation.

Paul M: A sharp hobby knife can cut away the rubber coating, but if you have to cut open a soldered connection, I surely would not call that maintenance, you would only cut it open if it failed. I'm talking about adding the rubber coating to prevent wicking moisture up inside the einsulation. An upgrade would normally be cut the end off and solder anew.
 
PhilP said:
...

And you can do this, because you ALWAYS leave enough slack to re-terminate, at least twice! :nerd::nod::nod:

PhilP.
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Oh yes! Always leave some slack

Paul M: A sharp hobby knife can cut away the rubber coating, but if you have to cut open a soldered connection, I surely would not call that maintenance, you would only cut it open if it failed. I'm talking about adding the rubber coating to prevent wicking moisture up inside the einsulation. An upgrade would normally be cut the end off and solder anew.
Sorry Greg, what should have written is repairs, which obviously aren't maintenance
 
Sometimes when soldering I find I did not have a hot enough iron. This is when I get out my over 50 year old weller 100/140 watt soldering gun plus liquid flux and things solder. When soldering, never start by wiping your iron on a wet sponge as the tip will no longer be as hot as it should be. I use an old cotton face cloth to wipe my tips.
 
Dan said:
When soldering, never start by wiping your iron on a wet sponge as the tip will no longer be as hot as it should be.
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:eek: How big, and how wet, is your sponge? :eek:

By the time you have wiped the tip, then tinned the bit afresh, your iron should be back to temperature..

PhilP.
 
I have a temperature controlled iron and wipe it immediately before soldering to keep it as clean as possible. My 2 technicians do the same.

Getting a good temperature controlled iron will last you a lifetime and make things so much easier.

If you have a lightweight, non-controlled iron, there are other things that will wipe the tip without cooling it off,

From amazon:

61xxsqNR6aL._AC_SL1010_.jpg


Greg
 
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