I think you missed my point I was talking about the space taken (by the plastic insulation)mand the space left for the Valve Gear which will be inside the frames.Exactly, Phil..... or at least that's what I would have thought.
Jon.
I think you missed my point I was talking about the space taken (by the plastic insulation)mand the space left for the Valve Gear which will be inside the frames.Exactly, Phil..... or at least that's what I would have thought.
Jon.
You only need dirty great chunks of plastic if you're doing adjustable gauge. Accy said that it would be either / or - not adjustable. You can have insulated wheels with minimal obstruction (look at Accy US models)I think you missed my point I was talking about the space taken (by the plastic insulation)mand the space left for the Valve Gear which will be inside the frames.
Aha my experience is with the roundhouse Insulated Wheels and indeed they are adjustable. These will not be somthe issue remains confusing.You only need dirty great chunks of plastic if you're doing adjustable gauge. Accy said that it would be either / or - not adjustable. You can have insulated wheels with minimal obstruction (look at Accy US models)
The plastics only matter if the wrong type is used..
Thermoplastic can be re-melted, so would not be a good choice..
Thermoset, on the other hand, stays solid.
It just needs the right question(s) to be asked about the materials being used..
I would i agine it could be to do with fitting the inside Valve Gear, if Insulated Wheels are anything like the Roundhouse ones in Accucraft Lokies there will be a lot of Plastic inside the Chassis. This is of course sheer conjecture.
Have to admit my only experience is with Roundhouse, Regner and Peter Angus Locomotives. All have insulated wheels, all regaugable except for my Roundhouse that have been fitted with SloMo’s. All 3 types have large Bosses inside that could effect Inside Valve Gear hence my original comments.Sir, it must be some time since you looked underneath an Accucraft Beyer-Garratt locomotive with the space between the frames literally crammed with tubes, pipes and wiring - AND insulated wheels, too. All capable of being re-gauged to 32mm. I did it just once, to run on a pal's 32mm gauge track, and swore never to do it again.
As for regauging, I can imagine a Garrett being a pain to do, many will not even attack Roundhouse which are simplicity itself on 3 and 2 axles types. Came across this in the 16mm Society where many would not attend my Open Days in Luton because they could not or would not run on 45mm die to the hastle of swopping Wheel Guge. Their loss.
Be careful of Accucraft re-gauging, my Lynn has dimples but they are not quite in the right spot for 3mm gauge. TBH, someone set it up correctlyfor 3mm and I've not moved it since! (It's too large for my 45 mm gauge at home, so it's a travelling loco only)I find that Accucraft are simpler to regauge as they have at least their driving axles drilled with "spots" for the wheels' grub screw retainers to seat into, centred on the axle at the correct gauge for 32 or 45 mm. Roundhouse on the other hand require a bit of centering by eye and judicious use of their supplied gauge plate, there are no "spots" in the axle and the plastic collars (on my 0-4-0 Darj') that the grub screws are threaded through are prone to stripping. An accucraft NG/G16 is a synch to regauge compared to and RH. But then RH products are a dream to run - can't have everything.
I suppose it depends on which area group you are with in the 16 mm NGM. The Northants group have a fair smattering of 45 mm operators (whisper it, a few with LGB code 332 built tracks not just Peco code 250 G45) I usually take my W&L Countess or the Darj' to 32 mm lines. Hosts invariably have a rake of stock for use of visitors. Nice inclusive lot we are here in Northants Jon
Yes I went to Alan Regan’s do last year and very fine it was as well, you were present as well. Had intended to go this year but somehow missed the day. Not too far for me to go either many of the Northants Meetings.I find that Accucraft are simpler to regauge as they have at least their driving axles drilled with "spots" for the wheels' grub screw retainers to seat into, centred on the axle at the correct gauge for 32 or 45 mm. Roundhouse on the other hand require a bit of centering by eye and judicious use of their supplied gauge plate, there are no "spots" in the axle and the plastic collars (on my 0-4-0 Darj') that the grub screws are threaded through are prone to stripping. An accucraft NG/G16 is a synch to regauge compared to and RH. But then RH products are a dream to run - can't have everything.
I suppose it depends on which area group you are with in the 16 mm NGM. The Northants group have a fair smattering of 45 mm operators (whisper it, a few with LGB code 332 built tracks not just Peco code 250 G45) I usually take my W&L Countess or the Darj' to 32 mm lines. Hosts invariably have a rake of stock for use of visitors. Nice inclusive lot we are here in Northants Jon
Be careful of Accucraft re-gauging, my Lynn has dimples but they are not quite in the right spot for 3mm gauge. TBH, someone set it up correctlyfor 3mm and I've not moved it since! (It's too large for my 45 mm gauge at home, so it's a travelling loco only)
16mm Society, you will find details in the Bulletin Page 19 latest Nov 2018 issue. Just missed the last Open Garden of the Year at Desborough (32 and 45mm) on the 9th December. I never made it though intended to!Northants group? Do tell - we live not far from the border, near Huntingdon. I've got lots of stuff to run on a 45mm gauge track. I'm in the 16mm Assoc, G-scale Soc and G1MRA.
Fortunately you're right about the typo!Blimey, Paul, that's a pretty radical change of gauge.... mind it doesn't fall over!
(Yes, I know it's a typo, but I just couldn't resist.....)
Jon.
That's probably pretty close to 10.25" gauge in 16mmFortunately you're right about the typo!