Accucraft Ragleth

I have an Accucraft Caradoc for sale which is in lovely condition and has been upgraded with Summerlands Chuffer, DJB whistle and drain cocks and a Clive Marker radio control system (this is a small knob type) which I'm asking £800 for.
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Wow! This thread has departed a bit from my original suggestion! Please stop suggesting which r/c system is best! My original proposal, is that it is, quite likely, that a manual configuration will suit all but demanding gradients. I would still recommend that any new entrant to a different Live Steam loco than a geared one, tries a manual loco on their railway before even considering r/c. When they reach that point we can then suggest the various options available!

All best wishes Brian
 
[QUOTE="However what has still not been answered is the question of 'are there any brackets or kit for mounting servo's on Ragleth'?
JonD[/QUOTE]

There are no brackets as such, but four 3mm threaded rods are all that's required - see my pics
 
dunnyrail said:
Not wishing to decry RCS I know that they
are good kit and I personally would have no problem in sourcing from Oz. however for Callum on his first install, if he does one a UK supplier would be a better bet.
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RC Trains are a UK based supplier, what are you on about????
 
funandtrains said:
I have an Accucraft Caradoc for sale which is in lovely condition and has been upgraded with Summerlands Chuffer, DJB whistle and drain cocks and a Clive Marker radio control system (this is a small knob type) which I'm asking £800 for.
View attachment 218472
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Reasonable price, good loco, secondhand is often the best route! It has a load of extra's like the paint lining, safety valve cover and r/c system, if you don't want it I'm interested!
 
GWhizz said:
RC Trains are a UK based supplier, what are you on about????
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Appologies for that was getting confused with the other supplier from Oz that does similar kit. I only have experience with Peter Spoerer kit and that is what I was trying to say, not trying to indicate what is best. Incidently I have no connection with Peter Spoerer, just a satisfied customer.
JonD
 
H i there my old railway was made up using mamod track 2foot 6 radius curves, My ragleth would get round them in manual but would periodically stop to build up pressure , RC was the way forward for me, my new railway is partly ground level with 10 foot radius curves and I've got rid of the RC and gone back to manual.
 
You can get mounting pylons for servos at better RC hobby shops, atleast here in the states. They come in different heights. You will need a few other pieces from there as well for the linkages. Mike
 
SDJR7F88 said:
Hi all.
After the success with my first live steamer (a Regner Konrad), I've been thinking about getting a second engine. One that has really caught my eye, and is within my price range is the Accucraft Ragleth.
It also meets my critieria for going around R1 curves, which my layout is consists off.
Another slightly cheaper option is a Roundhouse Basic line model, so would like to know which would be best.
First of all, is it best to pay that bit extra for R/C?
I don't have any issue with manual models, but I've heard the sometimes need a bit more omph to get them around bends (especially tight ones). This is where R\C would come in a bout more handy than manual I guess? Giving it a bit more reg on the bend then less on straights.
Second, cleaning.
I know live steams can get a bit dirty, so would like to know what us recommend to keeping the paint work and other things in top condition.
Any help would be greatful. As you all know a live steamer is not a cheap purchase, a would like to get it right.
Many thanks callum
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Does anyone know whether or not the Accucraft Ragleth will run without problems on LGB track and point work? I have two Roundhouse locomotives that will not run over standard LGB points, so I have had to shim the catch rails using thin brass strips. It does work well and the locomotives run through the points in all directions without derailing.
 
Stephen Roberts said:
Does anyone know whether or not the Accucraft Ragleth will run without problems on LGB track and point work? I have two Roundhouse locomotives that will not run over standard LGB points, so I have had to shim the catch rails using thin brass strips. It does work well and the locomotives run through the points in all directions without derailing.
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Stephen. That shouldn't be happening. I suggest that you check the back to back measurements of the wheels.
 
casey jones snr said:
Stephen. That shouldn't be happening. I suggest that you check the back to back measurements of the wheels.
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I was very disappointed when I discovered that my Roundhouse locomotives would not run through my LGB points. The first thing that I did was to check the gauge with the gauge thing provided by Roundhouse and it is accurately set to 45mm.

I then watched to see what actually was happening and discovered that my LGB Locomotives run on the outside (largest diameter) part of the wheels over the plastic parts of the points. The Roundhouse wheels are slightly smaller in diameter, and this causes the wheel to track badly and hit the nose of the point. I researched on various G Scale forums and discovered that other people had had this problem and solved it by shimming the catch rail with plastic or brass strips to reduce the gap between the catch rail and railway line, thus helping the locomotives track cleanly through the points. The shimming does not effect the running of my LGB locomotives or the LGB wagons.
 
PhilP said:
From what you say above, I think I would widen the gauge a little??
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I've just checked the gauge of my Roundhouse locomotives against my LGB locomotives and they are identical. The big difference is in the flange depth of the LGB wheels, as it is almost twice that of the Roundhouse wheels. I'm sure that if I could put LGB wheels on my Roundhouse locomotives then the problem would not exist.
 
The gauge may be the same, but the wheel profiles are not.
As I understand the problem, even though they measure the same, the wheel on the Ragleth is hitting an inner part of the pointwork??
If you slightly widen the gauge then this should not happen. - At least to my way of thinking.
It may only take half a millimetre, and knowing how 'sloppy' our models are on the track, I do not think it will cause you problems on curves.
 
Stephen Roberts said:
I've just checked the gauge of my Roundhouse locomotives against my LGB locomotives and they are identical. The big difference is in the flange depth of the LGB wheels, as it is almost twice that of the Roundhouse wheels. I'm sure that if I could put LGB wheels on my Roundhouse locomotives then the problem would not exist.
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I have never had a moments problem with running Roundhose Locomotives through LGB R1 Points, I have had 4 of them in my time plus visiting ones as well. Cannot understand what is going on here.

Back to Back Gauge is the critical thing and this is what could be different, but your Roundhouse Gauge should be sorting that out. But just in case, try to catefully measure between the inside of the Wheels on an LGB Locomotive. Use a Vernier Gauge if you have one. Then check this against the Roundhouse that is giving you problems. If it is not the same adjust. If it is use the Vernier to check the Back to Back on the points, the part where the wheels will pinch the frog and be pulled back from the Check Rail. Sorry if I am describing this in too much detail but I do not know your level of knowledge from this end of the ether! 1/2 mm difference in anything could cause you problems.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
I have never had a moments problem with running Roundhose Locomotives through LGB R1 Points, I have had 4 of them in my time plus visiting ones as well. Cannot understand what is going on here.

Back to Back Gauge is the critical thing and this is what could be different, but your Roundhouse Gauge should be sorting that out. But just in case, try to catefully measure between the inside of the Wheels on an LGB Locomotive. Use a Vernier Gauge if you have one. Then check this against the Roundhouse that is giving you problems. If it is not the same adjust. If it is use the Vernier to check the Back to Back on the points, the part where the wheels will pinch the frog and be pulled back from the Check Rail. Sorry if I am describing this in too much detail but I do not know your level of knowledge from this end of the ether! 1/2 mm difference in anything could cause you problems.
JonD
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The back to back gauge is spot on, and identical to my LGB locomotives. I have two Roundhouse locomotives (Criccieth Castle and Little John), both will run perfectly through the point if it's set to 'straight', however neither will run through any of my LGB points when they are set to 'curve'. Shimming the catch rail enables the locomotives to run properly through the points without hitting the nose of the points. If you are interested I'll take a photo of my brass shim to demonstrate what I have done. The brass shims act a bit like a spring and hold the locomotives wheels against the continuous curved rail of the point.
 
I have just purchased a Deltang based system for my Cheddar Samson, to replace the old 27MHz system. I intend to convert my Ragleth to rc with another receiver. Does anyone have any pictures of how Accucraft fitted their servos when factory fitted? Ditto for my Roundhouse Katie.
 
Recently arrived Accucraft 'Caradoc' 0-4-0T, No.1 'Eamont', undergoing a quick test run on the Blagdon & Butcombe Light Railway.
Fitted with Radio Control, Cylinder Drain Cocks, Chuffer and Whistle, she makes a superb addition to the B&BLR Fleet.
Massive thanks to Stephen, and Matt of Barley Pit Works for the service and delivery.
Check out Barlet Pit Works Website;
http://www.barleypitworks.com/
Apologizes for the loud noise at the beginning, as I believe I had the burner up a bit too high.
After some more test runs and getting use to the controls, I hope to bring you more videos of 'Eamont' in action on the railway.
Hope you enjoy!
 
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