Alternatives to Pola kit glue?

Nodrog1826

Nodrog1826

Professional Idiot
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Basically to as it says on the tin type of question.

What do you use to build a Pola building kit, if you carn't get ahold of their glue?

Is it something special, or are other types of glue good enough to stand up to the weather?
 
This is what I got in the kit.
DSC05842 (Small).JPG
 
Looked and smelt like the usual UHU, so I would go with that.
 
So the kits come with glue, useful to know, thought it was one of those extras you had to buy.
 
As they are made of styrene Plastic Weld or similar solvent type adhesive or good old fashioned polystyrene cement. Not regular UHU (UHU Plast ok), contact adhesives, epoxies or super glues. Remember to remove/sand off "weathered paint" surface finish on all areas that mate together (key to buildings not falling apart, whatever you use). You can reinforce out of sight joints with silicon sealant or two pack filler (eg P38). Max
 
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Once you have built your Pola or Piko structure, using the styrene adhesive of your choice, I strongly recommend getting your caulking gun out and load it with a tube of clear silicone caulking. Then apply a liberal bead to every joint of the structure. I like to install stiffeners and braces inside as well. I also do not glue the roofs onto the buildings, it allows access to the interior for maintaining lighting. I install gussets on the underside of the roofs to give them strength, particularly since they will be lifted off from time to time.
 
I have used Revell Professional which works very well on all plastic kits. The nice thing is it comes with a very fine capillary nozzle to make it easy to use on both small and large areas. As it partly dissolves the plastic it welds it together very well.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Sounds like a "solvent welding" glue. I heard the Pola plastic did not work well with of glue, that Pola's plastic is a bit different.

Greg
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Used the same revell glue on both piko and pola kits and appears to work just fine. I also got two tubes of UHU glue with one kit but long ago stopped using glue that came with kits of unknown vintage.
 
From my own experience, I found that the Pola glue, after a few years outdoors becomes brittle. So that was when I started using my silicone caulk method. My oldest structure, the Pola water mill, has been outside continuously for over twenty years.

The only things that do not last outside are the details like gutters and downspouts or other add on details like the barge and facia boards. Otherwise the building are almost bullet proof. Surprisingly the window shutters on the water mill are still hanging on.
 
Graham said:
I have used Revell Professional which works very well on all plastic kits. The nice thing is it comes with a very fine capillary nozzle to make it easy to use on both small and large areas. As it partly dissolves the plastic it welds it together very well.
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And, Revell lasts and lasts and lasts. I have had one of their blue packs with the fine long steel tube nozzle in v occasional use for well over 30yrs.
Amazingly, the replacement I bought a few months ago is in an identical pack.
Why change what works?
 
I think you should be eco-friendly and use a water based glue. :nerd:
Think of the plus point, you will get to assemble the kit again, and again, and again... :D
 
pugwash said:
I think you should be eco-friendly and use a water based glue. :nerd:
Think of the plus point, you will get to assemble the kit again, and again, and again... :D
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But what fun can we have with water based glue. No fumes to inhale and make us happy.....:party:
 
I have been using Pipe Adhesive on my latest Kit. It seams to Melt the Plastic quite well so I am hooeful for long term sucess with this. It has vpcertainly not failed me with the Hips Buildings I have made outdoors. Some have been in place for a Couple of Years now. I got mine from Gibbs and Dandy, get it in Tubes rather than Tins as it lasts better.
JonD
 
When you say "Pipe Adhesive", are you speaking of PVC glue ?
 
KeithT said:
And, Revell lasts and lasts and lasts. I have had one of their blue packs with the fine long steel tube nozzle in v occasional use for well over 30yrs.
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Same here. I am truly amazed.Also got a few pots of Humbrol and Tamiya paints that age too that are still useable. I'm such hoarder/tightwad :giggle: Max
 
Madman said:
When you say "Pipe Adhesive", are you speaking of PVC glue ?
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Ha Dan, that little Pond defines our differences again. Plumbers over here use it for glueing PVC External Pipe (drainage). What I use is :-

Polypipe GFC100 Gap Filling Cement Substance Identification No.1133 made from BISPHENOL A- Epichloron Epoxy Resin (Number AV MW<700.

If that helps with the ID. Says to store in a Cool Place away from direct sunlight. This explains why Andrew's one did not last so long as he stored it (and most of his Glue Tubes in a Glue Store in Direct Sunlight.

Always read the label, just have! So I guess the answer must be yes (I think).
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Ha Dan, that little Pond defines our differences again. Plumbers over here use it for glueing PVC External Pipe (drainage). What I use is :-

Polypipe GFC100 Gap Filling Cement Substance Identification No.1133 made from BISPHENOL A- Epichloron Epoxy Resin (Number AV MW<700.

If that helps with the ID. Says to store in a Cool Place away from direct sunlight. This explains why Andrew's one did not last so long as he stored it (and most of his Glue Tubes in a Glue Store in Direct Sunlight.

Always read the label, just have! So I guess the answer must be yes (I think).
JonD
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Interesting. We use a two step process. First you clean the area on the PVC pipe to be mated, with the cleaner. It is basically Acetone. It is usually purple in color, but clear is also available. Then you coat the male and female ends of the pipe with the glue. Once you have them both coated, you shove them together and hold it for a few seconds. That welds the two together.

Both the cleaner and glue come in small cans. The screw on lids have an internal applicator attached to a stiff wire, with a fuzzy ball of cotton on the ends. You simply use these to apply the cleaner then the glue.

We use PVC for both drainage and water supply piping. It certainly has made plumbing alot simpler than when I was building my house. I used copper tubing back then. I found myself in all sorts of contorted positions with a flame, trying not to catch the house on fire as I soldered tubing for both the water supplies and the heating system.
 
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