An elcheapo sound card system... Well an alternative anyway....

tramcar trev

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
I put up something in the ebay area then came up with a better solution viz:

Aaaaah dementia is setting in;
Mind you had I thought out my search string more thoroughly I would have found these. Only problem would be electronically triggering them. Maybe short out the play button after recording and supply power at 5V via an LM7805 across the motor supply, when the power comes on the thing emits its sound?

I guess at the price its not a great loss if it doesn't work....

Worth trying you think? ahh better add the url.....

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=sound+recorder+module&_sop=15

Now these devices have the ability to accept whatever recording you throw at them (so its real sound and not digitally created sound) and there are some that can give up to 30 seconds and these are considerably cheaper than proprietary sound modules. Yes a reed switch (replacing the onboard press button) and a magnet/s judiciously placed along the track where the tram is required to ring its bell would trigger....
Maybe this should be cross pollinated to the sound section/ let me see if I can do this..... and YES I have done it without recourse to a moderators assistance.
 
Neat idea, for some hints and tips for use and applications the following may be of use to you
http://www.trainelectronics.com/USB_Sound_4/index.htm, also have look see at Dave's other sound projects & articles.


Whilst not directly related, http://www.fnbcreations.net/projects.htm , you may find if you drop Fred an email he may point you in the right direction as to where to obtain the *.wav files for some of the sounds you may require.

I of course should mention gregh of this Parish.....................

Edit: http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Simple-Audio-Amplifier/
 
I've been using similar ones for years Trev, for whistle, horn and cow and sawmill sounds. (but more expensive - $5 from electronics123.com). Other mates use 2 or 3 with different rev rates recordings for a simple diesel sound

Problem is you really need an amplifier. 5V and the small speaker just aren't loud enough in the great outdoors.

My notes are right at the bottom of this page:
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/electronics.htm#sound
 
I should have known you would have had this sussed Greg....
I have lashed out and spent an entire $13 on a few varieties.... I will trial them under field conditions and then make a decision, remember my tramway is microscopic compared to the Sandstone and Termite....

So maybe I will have to lash out all of $5 on one of these with amplifier to try?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISD1820-Voice-Recorder-5V-3W-Digital-D-Audio-Amplifier-Mic-Sound-Loudspeaker-/141151350607?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item20dd46af4f&_uhb=1

Among the ones I've ordered is this; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISD1820-Voice-Recording-Recorder-Module-With-Mic-Sound-Audio-Loudspeaker-New-/141147691353?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item20dd0ed959&_uhb=1
And if your suggestion is that I'd need an amplifier then one of these from Jaycar should do the trick; http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KG9032

Reading from your notes I note you mention a direct connection between playback and recorder rather that record via the Mic. That appeals to me... Trials with a musical Xmas card suggest your correct though 5V & a 30mm speaker just don't cut it......

I already have a 10 second sound grab that I have worked up from some real life recordings and I used Adobe Audition... I can't post it here but its the mandatory 2 dings then a clunk as the handbrake is kicked off then whine as the motors pick up then a long fade out.... If anyone wants it I can email it to them....
My only problem is that space under my trams is limited.... I may have to go for an under layout series of installations that are triggered by magnets and reed switches if I have to go for the larger PCBs and say a 75mm speaker.... 3Watts would sure make the neighbours jump....
The steam tram is a different matter, I have no steam tram recordings so that sounds like a good excuse to take my digital recorder up to Valley Heights for a field trial.
 
tramcar trev said:
Reading from your notes I note you mention a direct connection between playback and recorder rather that record via the Mic. That appeals to me... Trials with a musical Xmas card suggest your correct though 5V & a 30mm speaker just don't cut it......
Click to expand...

Let us know whether those ones you've ordered have an amplifier - it's hard to tell from the specs. Will be the 'bees' knees' if they do.

I just brought 2 short wires out from one computer speaker and use clip leads to connect from them to the sound card MIC input (disconnect the onboard MIC). You have to play with the volume to not overload the chip and cause distortion.
I have also used these cards to simulate motor starting sounds in my railmotor - downloaded a 'bus starting' clip and used it after some tweaking using Goldwave.
 
This one comes with a 3 watt amp....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ISD1820-Voice-Recorder-5V-3W-Digital-D-Audio-Amplifier-Mic-Sound-Loudspeaker-/141151350607?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item20dd46af4f&_uhb=1
 
This one arrived today and I gave it a work out. would not record very well at all, then I noticed the + &- on the microphone was transposed to I fixed that, made a minor improvement. I tried a more upmarket speaker, better but a long way short of what I need. This is not even as loud as the one out of the Xmas card I fiddled with. Scrub this Module, barely audible indoors let alone outside.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30-secs-30s-sound-voice-recordable-module-coil-messager-recorder-Au-/151110044019?pt=AU_Party_Supplies&hash=item232edc4973&_uhb=1

Maybe the ones with an amplifier will be better suited to the task, I await their arrival with eager anticipation.
 
Trev, have you looked here; http://ittproducts.com/

For under forty dollars, George will record any sound you like.
 
Yes I have discussed this with George. His boards are more suited to static use rather that fitted to a moving train... None the less his product is good..... I have now ordered a couple of amplifiers.... that should belt out the sound...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350677981668?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271355217896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

At these prices why building a kit?
 
Knocked up a home brew minimum parts  LM386 amp, gain of 20, it`s a tad on the LOUD side when set at full volume!

Tested on a similar module to the one you have already, huge increase in the output volume, via an 8 ohm speaker.

Also removed the condenser mike and hard wired from the module to a jack plug direct into the computer, played sound direct to the module to record, just doodling to see if it`s doable!

With a bit time and care tidying up the initial sound file, very good results can be achieved.


So along with the eBay LM386 item to boost the volume, you have the basis for a simple sound system, Oh! and economic on the pocket!

Note: On the other module the batteries have died, not sure whether this is from continuous recording, playing etc. They are 3 x LR1130 1.5v button batteries, be a simple matter to remove the battery holders,  attach link wires to the pads and connect up to a more robust and longer lasting 4.5v supply.

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So are these boards, you're showing, capable of recording sounds?
 
Yes, you can record via the on board mic but GregH had an idea that I'm using which is a lead from the line out on the sound card on the PC direct to the board, unsolder the Mic first and use 2 small crock clips. BUT I think the amplifiers need to be fitted to give enough volume.
 
[quote author=Arthur Aardvark link=topic=297833.msg304533#msg304533 date=1391172903]
Knocked up a home brew minimum parts  LM386 amp, gain of 20, it`s a tad on the LOUD side when set at full volume!

Tested on a similar module to the one you have already, huge increase in the output volume, via an 8 ohm speaker.

Also removed the condenser mike and hard wired from the module to a jack plug direct into the computer, played sound direct to the module to record, just doodling to see if it`s doable!

With a bit time and care tidying up the initial sound file, very good results can be achieved.


So along with the eBay LM386 item to boost the volume, you have the basis for a simple sound system, Oh! and economic on the pocket!

Note: On the other module the batteries have died, not sure whether this is from continuous recording, playing etc. They are 3 x LR1130 1.5v button batteries, be a simple matter to remove the battery holders,  attach link wires to the pads and connect up to a more robust and longer lasting 4.5v supply.

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So lesson learned for the day... READ THE POSTS!! I prematurely ejaculated this from my plans. Yep a hardwire recording connection is required I had done this and all I achieved was that the hum and background noise was eliminated. So going along with your idea I thought about a suitable amplifier and I have 1 of these on order;  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271355217896?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 smaller than a postal stamp and can drive 2 of these; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390549633957?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Ok so then I thought lets see if this thing can take 5V and it does so quite happily (infact the volume has also increased). This means that 2 wires can be soldered on and the PCB trimmed up to make the size even smaller. The sound quality is exceptional for $2.49 but an amplifier is needed so to get this to work I will need to set up a LM7805 to power the sound module and amp from the 13.8 v supply.
So for the thrifty among us for less than AU$15 you can have quite a decent sound card. Mind you I only want the gong to sound at predetermined places, across the 2 white wires I`ll place a reed switch with triggering magnets between the tracks. If you had space and were using R/C then its a simple matter to connect this up to a channel and you would have sound when ever you want. If you want continuing sound you would have to up your investment to one of these; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/380598199039?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649  which allow for a loop playback. Used by some others on the forum for years.


DSCF1178_428x321.JPG
The trimmed up board, black and red wires go of to the 5V supply.​
 
Found this device. handy to plug a lead into without haveing to plug it in around the back of the PC. I plugged into the headphones output but got lots of hum but this may be a simple solution.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-2-0-Audio-Headset-Microphone-Jack-Converter-Adapter-CL2146-/360592384261?pt=AU_Components&hash=item53f4fb2105&_uhb=1
 
Nice find on those speakers and USB adapter... 8)

Seems the "elcheapo etc" seems to be a bit of winner ;)
 
Yes..... will wait and see.... I am looking forward to see how the 2 channel Amp performs.... But for those without DCC it could provide a reasonable solution... in fact I believe the "real" sound is better than the synthetically generated sounds.

To get best results you can record your own sounds on something like this; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Olympus-VN-8600PC-2Gb-Digital-Voice-Recorder-/151221983377?pt=AU_Gadgets&hash=item2335885891&_uhb=1

The Olympus gets rave reviews. Then you totally eliminate any extraneous sounds and have your own copyright, plus of course you get exactly what you want.
 
I found these on Ebay. The second one looks simple to use. How would I get the sound from them to the boards you have been talking about?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400638266952?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350810825608?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Madman said:
I found these on Ebay. The second one looks simple to use. How would I get the sound from them to the boards you have been talking about?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400638266952?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350810825608?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Click to expand...
I would go with the first one; http://www.ebay.com/itm/400638266952?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT\

Ok to get the sound from the recorder to the sound module you would need to make up a lead using a 3.5mm audio plug a cable with plugs like this would be the go; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Audio-Stereo-3-5mm-Male-to-Male-Extension-Cable-Cord-A-/150594486039?pt=AU_Television_Accessories&hash=item2310217f17&_uhb=1 I would buy 2 ( I'll explain later) Ok haveing got that cut the plug off one end and strip the wires back about 100mm. strip of the outer plastic, there will be a copper woven shield underneath, maybe 2, 1 around each channel, then strip the other wires back. Then get 2 small crocodile clips a red and black works for me, the shield you connect to the black clip ( this will be your - ) the other 2 wires can be connected to the red clip (the +). You end up with a lead that has a 3.5mm stereo plug on 1 end to 2 crocodile clips on the other.
OK........ then after you have modified the board or you may wish to use batteries doesn't matter that much you unsolder the microphone and connect the black clip to the - pad and the red to the + pad (you may need a magnifying glass) and plug the other end into the earphone socket. Now comes the tricky bit, you have to press the play (on the digital recorder) and the record button (on the sound module) at the same time. Release the record button when you have made your recording on the sound module.
But you are going to get better results if you record the sound from your record to your PC using the untouched double-ended lead plugged into the line in on the PC sound card then using the PC and the modified lead as described before. That way you can use some software ( free) to "clean up" your recording before loading it onto the sound module.
Yes its as clear as mud...
 
To eliminate the "click" at the end of playback unsolder the LED.
 
Thanks Trev. I may give it a go at some point.
 
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