idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
In general the alternative single buffer beams are supplied with the PIKO loco or wagon or passenger car. Not always but if not supplied they are available as spares.
Ancient Newcomer
- Thread starter Kev Green
- Start date
Tbh I’m still trying to get my head around the scale differences. I’m sorry I don’t really understand what you’re saying about the buffers, if the overall size of the rolling stock on the set I’ve bought is different to say other Piko engines and rolling stock not really sure how I go forward from here. I’ve emailed Piko in Germany and also another supplier in the U.K. so hopefully I can get a better handle on it all.
Brixham
No buffers were hurt at this sign
Today I ran a wagon at our club meeting without any buffers at all! And others were shunting it around. No one spotted they were missing!!
So don’t worry too much.
I would recommend joining a club that has G, so you can see how things look together. At first it can be quite a steep learning curve with differences in how things operate, like the standard for many commercial G points is NON electrical isolation, or live frogs, both quite different from older OO.
An active area group of the G scale society would be a good place to start.
The GSS website is about to be revamped, some of the info on the site is way out of date, but the groups info is mostly ok.
Malcolm
So don’t worry too much.
I would recommend joining a club that has G, so you can see how things look together. At first it can be quite a steep learning curve with differences in how things operate, like the standard for many commercial G points is NON electrical isolation, or live frogs, both quite different from older OO.
An active area group of the G scale society would be a good place to start.
The GSS website is about to be revamped, some of the info on the site is way out of date, but the groups info is mostly ok.
Malcolm
idlemarvel
Neither idle nor a marvel
You may be overthinking this. As I said in my first response PIKO stuff is compatible with almost any other "G scale" supplier, in that you can run them all together and they look okay from the distance you normally see things in a garden railway. If you want true scale models with realistic trains of loco and wagons/passenger cars of the correct livery, numbering and era, that can be done but its hard work and will require a lot of modelling and probably scratch building. This scale thing drove me mad when I first started, but like most people I learned to compromise. But you need to decide how important the "realism" factor is.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
On the prototype, narrow gauge predominately uses a single centre buffer, whereas standard gauge is usually two buffers, ergo LGB are normally a single centre buffer.
Technocrat
Mostly Retired?
I agree with the others, just avoid Lionel "Ready to play" equipment.I assume that means the 37130 set with the green loco (BR80) and red and blue coaches?
The BR80 is a great model for kids, no little bits to break off, practically indestructible and looks and runs well.
In terms of the scale, the loco model is 330mm long and the real (standard gauge) loco is 9.67m so that's 1:29 scale.
DRG Class 80 - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
The industry tends to use 1:22.5 scale as a synonym for G scale which it isn't as you are finding out, but don't let this worry you for now, just enjoy playing with the train with your grandkids and start planning the rest of your railway empire!
It is often sold as "G Scale" or 1/24th scale, of which it is neither. Furthermore, it runs on 2" gauge, as apposed to the 45mm used in "G Scale" an will not work with other products without major modification.
A real shame too, as the Hogwarts special is a nice looker.
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
Hullo and welcome to the forum Kev.
I have mostly LGB stock, but some of my more recent purchases have been Piko.
I've not had any issues with the hook and loop couplings, and I've run trains like this one which are a mix of LGB and Piko wagons. I've replaced the double buffers with the single buffer beam on the (standard gauge) Piko wagons as I reckon having the same draw-gear as the LGB vehicles looks better....
I have mostly LGB stock, but some of my more recent purchases have been Piko.
I've not had any issues with the hook and loop couplings, and I've run trains like this one which are a mix of LGB and Piko wagons. I've replaced the double buffers with the single buffer beam on the (standard gauge) Piko wagons as I reckon having the same draw-gear as the LGB vehicles looks better....
Ok the first two pictures show standard gauge coaches and a loco with twin buffers at each end.
These next one shows a metre gauge locomotive and a wagon with single centre buffers. Hope this helps clarify the buffer thing for you. But as
Gizzy
says above the Hook and Loop coupling take care of the differences in your models.
Hi Dave, it’s fine using the set I’ve bought but not sure how I go about extending if sizing is going to be different. Buildings I’m hoping to build my own so I can scale those as needed but figures, etc presumably will be out of scale. I have bought a single G Scale figure and it does seem slightly smaller than the driver that comes with the setI assume that means the 37130 set with the green loco (BR80) and red and blue coaches?
The BR80 is a great model for kids, no little bits to break off, practically indestructible and looks and runs well.
In terms of the scale, the loco model is 330mm long and the real (standard gauge) loco is 9.67m so that's 1:29 scale.DRG Class 80 - Wikipedia
The industry tends to use 1:22.5 scale as a synonym for G scale which it isn't as you are finding out, but don't let this worry you for now, just enjoy playing with the train with your grandkids and start planning the rest of your railway empire!
That looks great I’m not sure now though whether all Piko are made to the same scale
Day 2 Silly novice question of the day
So let’s assume I’ve sorted out the scale issue without my head exploding (close run thing) so I’ve got my oval track and I want to add a station set
. I understand that the whole track is live so I’m thinking if I have another engine parked in the station section I can use a plastic track isolator to stop the power getting to it, do I need a separate controller to the station section and how do I get it to come across the isolator?
So let’s assume I’ve sorted out the scale issue without my head exploding (close run thing) so I’ve got my oval track and I want to add a station set
. I understand that the whole track is live so I’m thinking if I have another engine parked in the station section I can use a plastic track isolator to stop the power getting to it, do I need a separate controller to the station section and how do I get it to come across the isolator?
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
This is a very good question Kev.
LGB points aren't isolating, so yes the whole track is live and you will need 2 plastic track isolators for each of the loops.
You will need a switch to make each dead section live when required, either 2 single pole switches or a double pole switch that switches in one of the 2 loops at a time. I'm guessing you've realised this, but i can clarify if you require.
Only one controller is required for the track diagram above, but if you have double track and want 2 trains running, then yes, another controller will be necessary....
Hi Gizzy thank you that's really helpful. So I have the plastic isolators in place and a suitable switch (just in my head atm). I have an engine in the station isolated while another engine runs around the loop then I stop it opposite the station. I then want to run the train out of the station around the ova, do I just need to flick the switch?
Gizzy
A gentleman, a scholar, and a railway modeller....
Yes that is correct.
I've modified your diagram to try and explain. I've tried to draw in the yellow isolators but they don't show up very well....
Attachments
I think I’m with it. That’s one isolator on the one side of the oval is that two isolators on the station
FatherMcD
Registered
I don't think that you have mentioned where this track will be placed. If outdoors, are you thinking ground level, built up on some sort of raised embankment or elevated? Indoors on the floor or on a baseboard? The location would affect the type of controls you want to use for the passing track.
Well done Gizzy, that's what I was trying to describe, but with the total lack of ability to do diagrams! I'm going to have to learn soon.