aristo train engineer

trammayo

trammayo

Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
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Hi have a Basic model which I am sure is faulty. I can get the speed to increase but, as soon as I release the button, the speed decreases - I think it should stay at the speed set. All other functions are OK.

That matter aside, there have been a number of the more advanced Aristo Crest train Engineers on eBay of late.

What is the difference between them and the Basic model. I'm thinking that I may be able to use one on my analogue trailer layout instead of me being "tethered" to the control panel ;D
 
In no particular order the main differences are

Higher power output, up to 10A when fitted with optional fan.

Linear output power option (basic is pulse only).

Up to 100 different frequency/channel combinations, useful when operating in the same area as similar equipment.

Ability to control accessories such as point motors if you can obtain the appropriate extra module.
 
Well worth getting the better transmitter and receiver.
As Neil says, it allows more power and has the extra frequencies and channels to allow you to control separate blocks or loops of track and also to operate the appliance modules for signals, points etc etc.
There were different incarnations of the transmitter. The very last version had an on/off button that replaced the `SPD` one at bottom left
This is a picture of that last but one version:

new_te_tx.jpg
 
trammayo said:
I can get the speed to increase but, as soon as I release the button, the speed decreases - I think it should stay at the speed set. All other functions are OK.
Click to expand...
When you release the button on the transmitter does the LED still flash on the receiver/speed controller or does the LED keep flashing on the transmitter. That will isolate which unit is at fault. Have you checked the battery condition in the transmitter ?

Great little things the Aristo TE. The 6 letters on the transmitter are used to actuate Aristo TE momentary switch (MS) controllers. Groups/chains of 6 separate devices can linked to one MS controller and be assigned to any of the 10 separate channels, not just the speed controllers. If those devices are interlinked in a chain, say a set of points and signals to set a path that's a lot of options.
Max.
 
Thanks Neil, Mike and Max.

There is one on ebay right now (ending this evening) which is the same as your pic Mike. Keeping an eye on it!

Max - I've been out to the shed and got the TE out. Wouldn't work! Battery OK in handset, power to receiver OK but no power out! Traced that problem to a broken output wire and need to resolder to PCB. However that would not be the cause of my problem - so I'll come back to you once I have soldered the wire back on if I may.

Overall, for me the 10 amp version would be the one - although its' diverse abilities might be a little overkill for my needs at the moment;D

My speed control is a simple pot varying the current to a Darlington transistor which copes well with the 3amps the supply is fused at. Anymore than that I do not know - I just bought the components my brother said I needed and he put the panel together.

I don't suppose the nominal 12v 3amp supply I use would be OK with Basic TE?
 
trammayo said:
I don't suppose the nominal 12v 3amp supply I use would be OK with Basic TE?
Click to expand...

Interesting question.
The basic TE can handle up to just under 2amps at 20v (40w) so there should not be a problem with 12v at 3 amp (36w) but it would depend on the output stage whether it would push to 3amps
 
ROSS said:
I have the Crest 55470 and 55471 TE combo boxed brand new somewhere ..never used 'em. Think I mounted a PC fan on top of the big pack.
Must dig 'em out.
Click to expand...

I don't know what the numbers mean Ross - mind you, that's nothing new for me ;D
 
beavercreek said:
Interesting question.
The basic TE can handle up to just under 2amps at 20v (40w) so there should not be a problem with 12v at 3 amp (36w) but it would depend on the output stage whether it would push to 3amps
Click to expand...

It's interesting what you say about the ouput. I reparied the broken wire, got a BH on the track and tried it.

In answer to Max's question about the light, when the "faster" button was pressed the light came on (transmitter)and stayed on until I let go of the button. Again the speed dropped off. No flashing of the Leds on either unit. The receiver light was on all the time. I noticed there was an audible click on the receiver whenever I stopped the loco or set the direction (presume it was latching the selected function). Bag of tripe really. Got it off somebody who never told me about what was wrong with it.

I measured the output and it barely reached 11 volts! Input was a very strong 18v (nearly 19) so, Mike, maybe it would do the job!
 
For many years, I 'put up with' the Basic TE. Hell, I'd paid enough for it, and I intended to get my monies worth. It used to chew through 9V batteries, probably because I tended to use 'supermarket' stock. When performance sloped off, it was usually cured by a battery change. It was while demonstrating my layout to an overseas visitor, that same visitor noticed I was having reception problems due to the distance I was from the receiver. 'Touch the rubber duckie aerial on the rail'.... an instantb awakening, which led to many more years of Basic TE operation. Then, one day, I accidently dropped the transmitter, no big deal, I thought, untill I went to stop the train.... no response. Ended up that one of the thingies inside had broken a wire. In the process of trying to 'fix' this, I ended up stuffing the thingie. The Aristo guys gladly sent me the necessary part, two minute fix, and back running again... so a few more years of Basic TE (with all its vaugaries). Occassionally, I'd have to clean up some control buttons to get them to respond properly. All part of growing up, as they say.

Then, one day, a 55470 TE set (just like the one in the photo) came up on Trade Me for the price of a box car. The rest, is history.

The Basic is now controlling my grandson's OO trains, and with the 55470 TE, I'm now running a lot more often, reliably, and confidently.
 
trammayo said:
In answer to Max's question about the light, when the "faster" button was pressed the light came on (transmitter)and stayed on until I let go of the button. Again the speed dropped off. No flashing of the Leds on either unit. The receiver light was on all the time. I noticed there was an audible click on the receiver whenever I stopped the loco or set the direction (presume it was latching the selected function). Bag of tripe really. Got it off somebody who never told me about what was wrong with it.
Click to expand...
That audible click is normal. When LED is lit on receiver it means it is getting an input from the transmitter. When transmitter LED is lit continuously it is transmitting. Flashing - battery power is low. Not sure what is going on with yours, might be a fundamental problem with the speed controller in the receiver. Suggest you put in an offer for Ross's combo and get a 55475 switch receiver to operate some points and signals too. A whole lot cheaper than going the DCC route if you don't want all the functions but want to be able to wander around.
Max.
 
Thanks for all your replies - they have been very helpful.

Max, yes I'll ask Ross if he wants to part with his. There was one on ebay and I forgot to bid for it! Mind you the day was a little traumatic so I'll forgive myself (eejit as they say here).

Gavin - I nearly jiggered mine up soldering the broken wire! What I could do in N gauge is getting harder to do in G Scale ;D
 
Well, a great deal from Ross (many thanks).

Anyway I have tested mine on a 12v battery. The leads from the transformer suffered from too many joints so it was easy to put a couple of croc clips on for the battery. Same conditions with the output lead as well.

The battery level was 12.94v and the output from the receiver was 12.92v. QED. Same problem persists - let go of speed button and the speed drops off - but at least I know that the TE will operate off a battery.

I also tried it in the trailer. Different situation there as the power normally feeds through the controller. To by-pass, I had to clamp the output wires directly to the track (and make sure all the section switches were closed). Because it was very much a lash-up, the track voltage was about 1.8v less than on the garden line but still adequate to run a loco around.

I intend to rebuild the control panel (with my brother's help) so I can operate with a TE or the method I use at the moment (notice I am avoiding puns - I could have said method I currently use). I have bought some 10amp toggle switches which will take the current (only 3 amps) and be more positive (I know) in their action.

So, like the BR of old, we are getting there (as in the Royal we).
 
I'll have a look at that Gavin - thanks!
 
Sorry Gavin - I got bogged down with other things! I did take a look at it that same day - I unscrewed it but it wasn't that. I cannot understand what is causing the problem - press either button (fast or slow) and the light comes on - then goes off when you release.

Anyway that's consigned to the pending shelf now I have received my purchase from Ross! If I get chance today (preparing to go to England this evening) I'll try my latest acquisition out in the Garden!

Thanks for your help.
 
trammayo said:
Anyway that's consigned to the pending shelf now I have received my purchase from Ross! If I get chance today (preparing to go to England this evening) I'll try my latest acquisition out in the Garden!

Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the full TE club Mick.
Although I also use Massoth DCC and the Revolution system for battery, I always have plenty of time for the TE as I have quite a few non-DCC or battery locos.
The TE is great as it...works.... and I have found it bullet-proof.
 
Thanks Mike. It works just fine - and I can see the potential ;D
 
>:( Went to fire up the TE tonight.... dead as. Replaced the batteries, cleaned the battery contacts. Press the on/off switch, nought, no flashing channel light, nothing. Put the meter over the batteries, got 4.5V, but that shouldn't matter (should it?) as they do not run fully in series, the circuit board shows take offs etc.

Any one had this sort of failure? Any advice appreciated. Talking about the Tx here.

Just when everthing was running so sweet, too.
 
Poss duff LED on the channel selected. Happenned to me Cycle through all 10 channels and see if any of them light. Flashing LED on Tx = low battery power. On/Off switch on Tx ? Didn't know it had one.
Max.
 
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