aristo train engineer

Gavin,
I've found that the Tx is sensitive to low batteries, so much so that I don't use rechargeables.
I suggest replacing the batteries with fresh ones if only to eliminate them as the cause of the problem.

I doubt this applies to you but my local club layout uses up to five Txs, only some of which are the version with the on/off button. Sometimes one of these Txs doesn't work because it isn't switched on! Not as daft as it may seem as they switch themselves off a after a few minutes if no transmissions are made.
Also these have a habit of "going to sleep" and taking several attempts to wake up. Turn off and on again in quick succession at least three times
 
maxi-model said:
Poss duff LED on the channel selected. Happenned to me Cycle through all 10 channels and see if any of them light. Flashing LED on Tx = low battery power. On/Off switch on Tx ? Didn't know it had one.
Max.
Click to expand...

2005 model, on/off replaced the spd button.
 
Neil Robinson said:
Gavin,
I've found that the Tx is sensitive to low batteries, so much so that I don't use rechargeables.
I suggest replacing the batteries with fresh ones if only to eliminate them as the cause of the problem.

I doubt this applies to you but my local club layout uses up to five Txs, only some of which are the version with the on/off button. Sometimes one of these Txs doesn't work because it isn't switched on! Not as daft as it may seem as they switch themselves off a after a few minutes if no transmissions are made.
Also these have a habit of "going to sleep" and taking several attempts to wake up. Turn off and on again in quick succession at least three times
Click to expand...

::) I'm aware of its ability to go to sleep. I put in fresh batteries (and meter checked them), tried the quick on/off three times, no response. Nothing comes up either when I try to change channel.
 
Open up the TX and inspect the circuit board. They can sometimes corrode internally if they get dew damp or left in a not totally air dry place for time etc.
 
beavercreek said:
Open up the TX and inspect the circuit board. They can sometimes corrode internally if they get dew damp or left in a not totally air dry place for time etc.
Click to expand...

I had a bit of luck a couple of years ago. A mates T.E. Tx had failed but the corrosion wasn't visibly obvious. I traced the problem to a point at which power transferred (or rather should have) from one side of the board to the other. A thin piece of wire through the hole soldered to the traces on ether side fixed it.
 
Neil Robinson said:
I had a bit of luck a couple of years ago. A mates T.E. Tx had failed but the corrosion wasn't visibly obvious. I traced the problem to a point at which power transferred (or rather should have) from one side of the board to the other. A thin piece of wire through the hole soldered to the traces on ether side fixed it.
Click to expand...

Good one Neil..... I have had the same problem in the past...obviously a weak spot on the board.
Whilst being a great TX, and generally bullet proof, they do seem suffer from corrosion if they get the slightest bit damp (like leaving them on the grass during an evening run etc.). I now spray the board with AFC-50 or 'Corrosion Block' from the same company (also used this on the RXs when they were kept outside for 6 years!...never had a problem)
 
All of what you are writing is double dutch to me. I have two TEs, one with the short flexi aerial, and one with the extendable one. I haven't a clue how either of them work, and this despite in the past getting lots of sensible advice from out there, this including some time back a very useful telephone call from Ross to talk me through things. At present I only use the flexi aerial one because I just pressed some buttons and the train moved. That's good enough for me. So you can understand I am not getting the full use of the thing, because I don't know how to. I also find the controllability a bit erratic. At the moment the TE only does certain tasks, and not all of the time. It seems to be rather reluctant to slow down trains, and sometimes the "stop" button won't stop. So I just play along, pretending it is working. Not very satisfactory, I know
 
Neil Robinson said:
I had a bit of luck a couple of years ago. A mates T.E. Tx had failed but the corrosion wasn't visibly obvious. I traced the problem to a point at which power transferred (or rather should have) from one side of the board to the other. A thin piece of wire through the hole soldered to the traces on ether side fixed it.
Click to expand...

;) Thanks, I (or rather, the combined might of Kiwirail's Signals and Technology Division) will check that tip out at morning tea/lunch today..... touch wood :)
 
Promising start.. we have established that there is power feeding the circuit board. On/off switch is having no effect, appears power is on, and won't go off (?). She's a 'takeaway' job, Dave Allen has offered to look see (and compare with his own TE's).
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Promising start.. we have established that there is power feeding the circuit board. On/off switch is having no effect, appears power is on, and won't go off (?). She's a 'takeaway' job, Dave Allen has offered to look see (and compare with his own TE's).
Click to expand...

>:( The prognosis is fatal...... I am now in the market for a replacement 55470 TE transmitter. Just when things were all running sweet and rosy too.
 
Just had a note from the folks at Crest, they no longer stock, or repair, the 55470 TE.

Fortunately, I've been offered a used TE.
 
The Train Engineers have been discontinued for a few years now. The Revolution took their place. I know some UK dealers had them until recently - some still have 70MHz. versions I believe.
 
;) Covered elsewhere (G Scale Pictures, Taita Gorge Railway), but just a brief 'link' to let you know that I have found computer power supplies quite practical for feeding your Train Engineer.
 
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