Aristocrft BUDD RAILCAR
- Thread starter duncan1_9_8_4
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garrymartin
My Family,Railways, Beer and the Seaside
Yes you are right , I was probably confused switching from R1 & R2 ( which have no meaning to me at all ) to the 10 foot diameter loops also mentioned.
Cheers Garry
Cheers Garry
TONYWARD50
Tadpole sexing</br>
I have one which will sometimes negotiate R2 curves but I only tend to use it on an end-to-end run which utilises R3.
Incidentally, I have nearly finished creating an interior for the RDC1 using plastic card and vinyl for about £9 and replacing the frosted "glass" with clear material. This follows on from adding sound to the vehicle.
Is anyone interested in photos of this ?
Let me know and I will arrange within the next week.
Cheers,
Lord Elpus of Dorset
Incidentally, I have nearly finished creating an interior for the RDC1 using plastic card and vinyl for about £9 and replacing the frosted "glass" with clear material. This follows on from adding sound to the vehicle.
Is anyone interested in photos of this ?
Let me know and I will arrange within the next week.
Cheers,
Lord Elpus of Dorset
chris m01
Registered
I modified mine.
Put in see through windows, built seats from plasticard onto a plasticard floor, added a dirver and re-arranged all the bits on the underframe as for some strange reason Aristo put them all in the wrong place.
I removed the interior lighting - one day I might get round to putting some LEDs in.
This is the finished item
During modification. SHows the interior and the rebuilt underframe detail
Put in see through windows, built seats from plasticard onto a plasticard floor, added a dirver and re-arranged all the bits on the underframe as for some strange reason Aristo put them all in the wrong place.
I removed the interior lighting - one day I might get round to putting some LEDs in.
This is the finished item
During modification. SHows the interior and the rebuilt underframe detail
TONYWARD50
Tadpole sexing</br>
Chris, my plastikard seats are sprayed the same blue as yours but I have added a compartment at one end,which I believe is the toilet and covered this with a claret vinyl and created a "carpet" using vinyl.
The lighting consists of 2 Massoth lighting boards - yes I knw I should use LEDs really - and the floor has been raised by 4 mm to accommodate the new wiring as I stripped out the horrible Aristo circuits as they interfere with the decoder.
Can you give us more details about the underframe modifications please ?
The lighting consists of 2 Massoth lighting boards - yes I knw I should use LEDs really - and the floor has been raised by 4 mm to accommodate the new wiring as I stripped out the horrible Aristo circuits as they interfere with the decoder.
Can you give us more details about the underframe modifications please ?
chris m01
Registered
Yes my floor is too high because of the Aristo boards. I have made the seats low to compensate and also chopped off all the little people's legs below the knee.
The underframe of the RDC1 is rather like a certain Morecombe & Wise sketch - it has the right parts but not necessarily in the right order.So for the underframe I took the existing pieces and re-arranged them into the correct order by glueing them onto a thin pice of wood. I then screwed the wood onto the undeframe. I also had to fabricate a few bits and pieces based on photographs. I found the Yahoo Budd group useful for photos - see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BUDD-RDC/?yguid=182055911
Since re-doing mine I have found a drawing at http://paintshop.railfan.net/images/moldover/rdc1_p1.html . If I had had this at the time my underframe would have been far more accurate.
And it looks as though Aristo has fixed a lot of the orginal problems on the new RDC3 see http://www.aristocraft.com/ . The underframe still seems to be lacking a lot of detail though. And, so far as I am aware the Sante Fe did not own an RDC3 (I'm sure someone willp ut me right on this if necessary).
The underframe of the RDC1 is rather like a certain Morecombe & Wise sketch - it has the right parts but not necessarily in the right order.So for the underframe I took the existing pieces and re-arranged them into the correct order by glueing them onto a thin pice of wood. I then screwed the wood onto the undeframe. I also had to fabricate a few bits and pieces based on photographs. I found the Yahoo Budd group useful for photos - see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BUDD-RDC/?yguid=182055911
Since re-doing mine I have found a drawing at http://paintshop.railfan.net/images/moldover/rdc1_p1.html . If I had had this at the time my underframe would have been far more accurate.
And it looks as though Aristo has fixed a lot of the orginal problems on the new RDC3 see http://www.aristocraft.com/ . The underframe still seems to be lacking a lot of detail though. And, so far as I am aware the Sante Fe did not own an RDC3 (I'm sure someone willp ut me right on this if necessary).
Would love to see this, I'm just finishing the interior on my SP RDC having relocated all the internal electronic gear (WHY so much? No wonder they put frosted windows and folded cardboard inside!) into the roof space - sound to be added soon too hopefully. Next job is to rebuild and detail the underneath as Aristo appear to have modelled it all in a mirror image of the prototype - D'oh!
As for curves, 4ft RADIUS are fine but as said the overhang is a little grotesque!
As for curves, 4ft RADIUS are fine but as said the overhang is a little grotesque!
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
I think that the new Aristo version has corrected all the wiring probs and also obviously added the clear windows and interior. But it probably still does not look as good as your efforts!
It is a shame that the Rio grande did not have the RDC rail cars as I would like to have one coupled to coach to make the 'Prospector'. They only dabbled in diesel railcars with the 'Prospector' for a short while but the design had a more sylised streamline front a lot like the 'Burlington Pioneer Zephyr'
It is a shame that the Rio grande did not have the RDC rail cars as I would like to have one coupled to coach to make the 'Prospector'. They only dabbled in diesel railcars with the 'Prospector' for a short while but the design had a more sylised streamline front a lot like the 'Burlington Pioneer Zephyr'
Chris M said:I modified mine.
Put in see through windows, built seats from plasticard onto a plasticard floor, added a dirver and re-arranged all the bits on the underframe as for some strange reason Aristo put them all in the wrong place.
I removed the interior lighting - one day I might get round to putting some LEDs in.
This is the finished item
During modification. SHows the interior and the rebuilt underframe detail
[align=center]Excellent job there much better than the new model ,
what does all that wiring and pcb board do, they seem to get carried away with, electronic insides and not very much attention to looks.
I will do mine the same as this when I get one that is ,
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The RDC is indeed an impressive model from the box with its in your face stainless finish but certainly benefits from detailing and an interior - mine is SP Car 10 (the only one the SP used apart from the original demonstrator in Budd livery), I stumbled upon it by chance at a toyfair; hope to get some pics up once its completed.
Work involves making the interior and moving the PCB boards to the roof space (involving lengthening the wiring looms), remodelling the underframe, fitting new triple roof horns (Ozark miniatures) and scratchbuilt indicator boxes (ears!) and other small body details, followed by a little gentle underframe weathering and hopefully a sound unit.
The prototype worked out of Oakland so it will be right at home on my layout!
Big thanks to the guys above who provided the inspiration!
Work involves making the interior and moving the PCB boards to the roof space (involving lengthening the wiring looms), remodelling the underframe, fitting new triple roof horns (Ozark miniatures) and scratchbuilt indicator boxes (ears!) and other small body details, followed by a little gentle underframe weathering and hopefully a sound unit.
The prototype worked out of Oakland so it will be right at home on my layout!
Big thanks to the guys above who provided the inspiration!
chris m01
Registered
I have found a good tip on the Aristo forum.
Add a shim around the gearbox mouilding on the bogie in order to make the wheelset fixed rather than flexible. Mine used to derail on poor trackwork and this simple mod has fixed it.
http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=16678# < Link To
http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/index.php < Link To Aristo-Craft Trains Forum > http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/forumdisplay.php?f=23 < Link To General Forum http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=16678 < Link To
Making Changes to the RDC-3 Trucks
Add a shim around the gearbox mouilding on the bogie in order to make the wheelset fixed rather than flexible. Mine used to derail on poor trackwork and this simple mod has fixed it.
http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=16678# < Link To
Chris M said:I have found a good tip on the Aristo forum.
Add a shim around the gearbox mouilding on the bogie in order to make the wheelset fixed rather than flexible. Mine used to derail on poor trackwork and this simple mod has fixed it.
http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=16678# < Link Tohttp://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/index.php < Link To Aristo-Craft Trains Forum > http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/forumdisplay.php?f=23 < Link To General Forum http://www.aristocraft.com/vbulletinforums/showthread.php?t=16678 < Link ToMaking Changes to the RDC-3 Trucks
[align=center] Excellent tip that cheers,
I had the same problem with my RS3 , so I turned the trucks around and made the fixed wheelsets on the leading/trailing ends of the trucks,I also cut off the molding dots,
seems more of a problem with the newer type that dont have the axles stubbs into the axle boxes.
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TONYWARD50
Tadpole sexing</br>
I thought you might like to have some photos of what I have done to the RDC1.
I acquired an RDC1 in Santa Fe livery at a bargain price but I wanted to model the B&M.
I also disliked the underframe detail which is sadly lacking and each photo I have found of the real thing seems to show different detail from car to car !. A simple modification is to reduce the length of the spigots supporting the gas or brake cylinders, so that they sit just below floor level and not about an inch below. I have also shortened one of the cylinders and reglued it in another position. I used an airbrush to apply Precision Paints Frame Dirt.
The cabs were removed, the windows masked and then sprayed with aerosol aluminium.
The decals are scanned from a book, reduced in size on the computer and then printed onto Waterslide Decal, and given a coat of matt varnish.
The decals are applied using Humbrol DecalFix which really helps the decals adhere and reduces the carrier film.
I think the results are worth it but I would appreciate your comments as to the before and after pictures here.
TONYWARD50
Tadpole sexing</br>
Forgot to mention that I have also put non-working Kadee couplers on which are much better-looking than the Aristo ones - as the RDC will not be pulling anything there was no great need to make more modifications to get a working pair at the correct height.
Once I started this project I felt I had to finish it before starting anything else.
I also was given some Preiser 1/32 scale unpainted seated figures for Christmas. They go very well with this vehicle although they are very slightly underscale, but the detail is very good even though much of it is missed as they are inside. Most of the passengers are in the mid-section as I did not want to remove the body again having fitted and glued a false floor to hide the wiring. The only (easy) way in now is by removing the top section of the roof.
Once I started this project I felt I had to finish it before starting anything else.
I also was given some Preiser 1/32 scale unpainted seated figures for Christmas. They go very well with this vehicle although they are very slightly underscale, but the detail is very good even though much of it is missed as they are inside. Most of the passengers are in the mid-section as I did not want to remove the body again having fitted and glued a false floor to hide the wiring. The only (easy) way in now is by removing the top section of the roof.
