Once you have large scale everything else is a toy.I think the best I could accomplish would be an N gauge layout on the balcony
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Hi Richard
I was great to chat the other day.
I too have shed most of my 1:20.3 rolling stock, just keeping some 1:20.3 'specials' like Hartford Products wooden kit built stock car, box car, caboose, reefer and an AMS/Accucraft combine together with a Bachmann C19 loco as a show train to take to 'flat' layouts (something that mine is not!
)
I have the 1:22.5 Aster K28 and I agree that it is a brilliant model all round (I added DCC (track power).
My Kiss 1:22.5 K36 (also track power DCC-ed) is also lovely but its phenomenal detailing and lack of the 'spilt' drive chassis makes it less flexible in use.
I am going the Revolution DCC RC battery route for some (possibly nearly all) of my locos. A mixture of Aristocraft, USA Trains and Bachmann locos (geared and rod drives)
Although I will be using older ESU XL V3.5 DCC decoders (with sound), I have a few Phoenix 2K2 sound cards and Phoenix sounds are still the best out there.
I have started a thread in the battery forum asking for any pointers as to wiring the three components (ESU decoder, Phoenix 2K2 and the Revolution DCC receiver) together.
eg. Phoenix do say not to wire the 2K2 ground wire to the DCC decoder ground as the potential voltage difference will cause components to overheat
Although you are using Zimo decoders, have you any pointers to watch out for when hooking up the Revolution DCC receiver?
Mike
I was great to chat the other day.
I too have shed most of my 1:20.3 rolling stock, just keeping some 1:20.3 'specials' like Hartford Products wooden kit built stock car, box car, caboose, reefer and an AMS/Accucraft combine together with a Bachmann C19 loco as a show train to take to 'flat' layouts (something that mine is not!
)I have the 1:22.5 Aster K28 and I agree that it is a brilliant model all round (I added DCC (track power).
My Kiss 1:22.5 K36 (also track power DCC-ed) is also lovely but its phenomenal detailing and lack of the 'spilt' drive chassis makes it less flexible in use.
I am going the Revolution DCC RC battery route for some (possibly nearly all) of my locos. A mixture of Aristocraft, USA Trains and Bachmann locos (geared and rod drives)
Although I will be using older ESU XL V3.5 DCC decoders (with sound), I have a few Phoenix 2K2 sound cards and Phoenix sounds are still the best out there.
I have started a thread in the battery forum asking for any pointers as to wiring the three components (ESU decoder, Phoenix 2K2 and the Revolution DCC receiver) together.
eg. Phoenix do say not to wire the 2K2 ground wire to the DCC decoder ground as the potential voltage difference will cause components to overheat
Although you are using Zimo decoders, have you any pointers to watch out for when hooking up the Revolution DCC receiver?
Mike
Deleted member 5251
New Member
Hi Mike,
It was a pleasure to meet up with you!
Here’s an outline on how I set up my system:
It’s been around 4 years since I set up my Train Engineer Revolution DCC equipment.
The transmitter is capable of controlling up to 50 locos and or DCC equipped point motors etc.
My initial transmitter was V1, I have recently bought two more, as I’m selling my locos and each will require it’s own transmitter unless someone buys all 3 These are now V1.14.
I believe you can download upgrades from your computer with a device you purchase separately.
Setting up is a breeze.
Two wires go to the receiver from a fused battery supply and two wires from the receiver to the DCC decoder of your choice.
When setting up, I initially wired straight from my Lenz controller to the decoder and set up the loco number, ie: I just used the loco classification number (C19 was 19 K27 was 27 etc..) This can be done with the transmitter if you wish, but I was changing a few CVs and found this more convenient.
I installed the receivers in there tenders of my locos. Each receiver has a short aerial which you bend to face up. None of my aerials were visible and hidden below the coal load.
Before pairing the receiver to the transmitter you will notice on the setting up screen a space for the loco number. Just type in the number allocated to your loco. You then scroll to ‘pair’ on the screen. There is a flying lead on the receiver with a small button. This is depressed until a tiny LED flashes on the receiver. Let go of the button and the transmitter screen will indicate that the receiver is paired. Now you can go and play!!
You can adjust CVs for sound, acceleration/deceleration very easily.
However, I don’t believe you can read CVs through the air, which is why I set up and moved functions on my Lenz controller.
I was easily able to control two locos simultaneously, I could have done all 3 but I didn’t have enough room to space the trains out!
I use Duracell AA Batteries in the transmitter and they last for ages. Once the loco is up and running you can turn off the transmitter if you wish.
Personally, I cannot fault this system, it has never malfunctioned and been super easy to use. I cannot find a down side and absolutely wouldn’t go electric track power.
I have attached photos of the complete set up in my K27, the Zimo decoder and a close up of the receiver.
Richard
It was a pleasure to meet up with you!
Here’s an outline on how I set up my system:
It’s been around 4 years since I set up my Train Engineer Revolution DCC equipment.
The transmitter is capable of controlling up to 50 locos and or DCC equipped point motors etc.
My initial transmitter was V1, I have recently bought two more, as I’m selling my locos and each will require it’s own transmitter unless someone buys all 3 These are now V1.14.
I believe you can download upgrades from your computer with a device you purchase separately.
Setting up is a breeze.
Two wires go to the receiver from a fused battery supply and two wires from the receiver to the DCC decoder of your choice.
When setting up, I initially wired straight from my Lenz controller to the decoder and set up the loco number, ie: I just used the loco classification number (C19 was 19 K27 was 27 etc..) This can be done with the transmitter if you wish, but I was changing a few CVs and found this more convenient.
I installed the receivers in there tenders of my locos. Each receiver has a short aerial which you bend to face up. None of my aerials were visible and hidden below the coal load.
Before pairing the receiver to the transmitter you will notice on the setting up screen a space for the loco number. Just type in the number allocated to your loco. You then scroll to ‘pair’ on the screen. There is a flying lead on the receiver with a small button. This is depressed until a tiny LED flashes on the receiver. Let go of the button and the transmitter screen will indicate that the receiver is paired. Now you can go and play!!
You can adjust CVs for sound, acceleration/deceleration very easily.
However, I don’t believe you can read CVs through the air, which is why I set up and moved functions on my Lenz controller.
I was easily able to control two locos simultaneously, I could have done all 3 but I didn’t have enough room to space the trains out!
I use Duracell AA Batteries in the transmitter and they last for ages. Once the loco is up and running you can turn off the transmitter if you wish.
Personally, I cannot fault this system, it has never malfunctioned and been super easy to use. I cannot find a down side and absolutely wouldn’t go electric track power.
I have attached photos of the complete set up in my K27, the Zimo decoder and a close up of the receiver.
Richard
I'm bumbed about phoenix packing it in.