Bachmann 2-Shay Climax

I am using the pure Revolution for sound. It's not the best sound for the Climax, but I found that moving the older Revo board with Phoenix P8 was getting very complicated. So I'm just using the Revo steam sound with Revo's chuff. I did not hook up a trigger for it (yet).
And for the volume control on the Revo boards, I'm told that F6,F7,F8 controls the volume. Haven't tried that yet but I will soon.
Keith
 
Just found out there is a high, medium, low setting for the sound on the Revo board using F7, F8, F9 keys on the transmitter. It works, that answers my question. Other than not a great realistic sound for the Climax, I'm all set (finally).
Thanks for all you inputs.
Keith
 
Good, I was wondering why you would have a Revo without sound when the Revo with sound is so inexpensive.

Now the sound won't be anything near what the Phoenix can do, so perhaps another install you will venture there with what you initially planned.

When you do, we can be here to help, and if you take it step by step, it can be broken into easy to install and test steps. Until you really have done a few, resist the urge to wire everything and test. That's what throws people for a loop, they hook up everything, and then it's much harder to debug, often requiring de-wiring it back to basics.

Even after all the installs I have done, I do it in baby steps, only takes a little bit longer if you succeed, and WAY less time to debug if there is a problem.

Greg
 
Actually, Greg, the Revo I was planning on moving from my Railcar is an old one, from 2012, so it didn't have sound on the board at the time. Just looking at the installation in the rail car (I didn't install it, had it done) it looks very confusing so I'll have to take my just removing it from the rail car.

On a different topic, Greg, I'm going to start one on the Aristo remote switch device CRE57074. I just need a simple wiring diagram as I find their manual a bit confusing.

Keith
 
Thanks, Greg. Haven't started a new thread yet. Switch motor I using is ART11298. I have the instruction manual for CRE57074. It talks about red, green and black wires. I only have black and green that came with the switch motor. Plus, it says not to disconnect the toggle. So how is the remote unit connected, before or after the toggle. This is why I'm looking for a simple wiring diagram.

Keith
 
Also, the 57074 manual states this will work for LGB switches. That implies it will work for PIKO switch motors (P35271). What is your experience? Will the remote switch device drive Piko motors? As I have both Piko and Aristo motors.
Thanks again,

Keith
 
OK, let's do one switch motor at a time :)

The 11298 is a 2 wire interface, when you apply dc, it moves, and then stops itself, then it won't move again until reverse the DC polarity...

Then it does the same thing all over again. There is an internal limit switch that allows this, so only 2 wires are necessary.

You do have the 57074 manual and it identifies your switch motor.

Take the black and green wires and connect them to terminals A and B... forget the toggle.

You are right, the Crest manual for the 57074 is terrible.

Greg
 
Are you saying just a simple connection of 2 wires from the switch motor to the two connectors on the remote device is all I have to do? And then link the remote device to the transmitter? Is it really that simple?

LKeith
 
Greg, you have been extremely helpful. Maybe you can direct me on this issue. Here are the steps I have done (to no avail). This is only using the Aristo switch machine.
Tested a switch machine using standar setup with toggle switch. Switch machine operates correctly.
Installed remote device, set up the transmitter as defined in User Manual.
Got the remote device linked to transmitter, no problem. Defined Timer to be 2.0 seconds and mode to slow. Transmitter says Link OK
Connected switch machine directly to SW1 on remote device. Straight wire, no toggle or anything between remote device and switch machine.
Using transmitter, toggled SW-1 switch in both directions.
Volt meter on the two terminals of the switch machine reads about 6 volts.
Transmitter says SwBUSY.
Problem: SWITCH DOES NOT MOVE
I am feeding about 20 volts to the machine/remote device and I have tested both 12V and 24V terminals on the switch machine.

Reconnected everything as above but used a wire set with a toggle in the line.
Repeated all steps as above
Same result: switch does not move no matter how the toggle was set.

Verified switch machine still works properly by taking the remote device out of the circuit, hooked up the toggle circuit directly to power souce.
Switch machine moves as expected.

I don't know what else to try. Can you give me any hints about what to do? Are there some other settings I should be using in the transmitter?

Thanks again for all your help.
Keith
 
Greg, one further note. The red light on the remote device is constantly flashing. Not a rapid flash but a steady one. Not sure what that means, if anything.
Keith
 
Yep, as stated in the 57074 manual, you will see other 2 wire switch motors too.... they really confused the issue..

In the wiring diagram that came with the switch motor, you did see that only 2 wires are required to move the motor right?

The toggle switch is a manual way to reverse the polarity.

11298-SLOW_SWITCH.jpg
 
Greg, the wiring diagram you showed me above is the way I have the switch motor connected. Works fine this way (top two wiring). I just substitue the remote device for the toggle and that's when the switch motor doesn't move. I don't know what else to try unless there is some setting in the transmitter I don't have right.
Keith
 
I think the setting on the throttle needs changing, or the switch controller is messed up.

With 20 volts, I would be sure to wire to the 24v terminals, burning out the motor is not a good idea.

The sw busy should be displayed for 2 seconds only after throwing.... does it do so?

did you try both slow and fast settings?

Something does not make sense... the switch controller should be sending voltage, and changing the polarity for each direction... that part about keeping the toggle switch does not make sense either.

As I don't have one of these controllers, I cannot verify the power output, especially the reversal of polarity.

Greg
 
Thanks, Greg, I use the 24V hookup on the switch machine, although I have tried both the 12V and the 24V. When I put volt meter on the terminal screws on the switch machine, I register about 6 -8 volts, so that tells me I'm getting a signal at the switch motor itself. And I have tried both the slow and fast settings in the transmitter. When I use the slow setting, SwBUSY does last about 2 seconds, which is what I have the transmitter set at.

So I just ran through everything again. Tested the switch motor using the original hookup with toggle switch. Switch motor works correctly. Hooked the switch motor up with the remote device, no toggle in the circuit. With a volt meter, I'm getting 22V at the input side of the remote device. I am hooked up to SW-3, 2 second timer, slow motion. When I use the transmitter, I have about 10-12 volts at the terminals on the remote device. I also have about 10-12 volts at the terminals at the switch motor. Without changing the position of the volt meter, I get a negative reading at the switch motor when I change the direction of the switch. That tells me I am getting reverse polarity from the remote device. However, in either case, the switch itself does not move.

The only other observation I have is that the red light on the remote device is in a slow flashing state.

I then put the switch motor back into the original setup, with the toggle switch without any remote device, and the switch motor operates correctly, so I know the switch motor functions as designed.

So I am at a loss. I don't know what else to try. Each of the components in the circuit seem to work correctly but the switch doesn't move when using the remote device.

Keith
 
OK, so the swbusy acts correctly... that's good.
you have verified that the polarity changes from the controller.

OK, so now verify the switch motor, (normally this is the first thing you do) it appears you have 22 volts as a source.... just checking, this MUST be DC... verify that.

now put the 22 volts DC to the 24v contacts on the switch... it should move, reverse the polarity and it should move again....

Perhaps this is as simple as you were using AC.

Let's see what the switch motor does...

Greg
 
SUCCESS! SUCCESS! :):):)

Okay, I did one final test. Since I was seeing only about 10 volts at the output terminals on the remote device, and about 10 volts on the input terminals on the switch motor, I thought I'd try connecting the switch motor using the 12V terminals instead of the 24V terminals. I thought I had done this before but who knows.

SUCCESS! The switch motor moved the switch just as it is supposed. So with all the pain and frustration I have gone through, it seems like the simple solution is the solution. So I totally appreciate your help and your patience as I (we) went through this.
Now I only have two other issues to address.

1.) See if I can use the remote device to drive a Piko switch motor without burning up the Piko switch motor. (It appears that the remote device is sending a signal very similar to a momentary toggle switch if I set the SW-x to fast in the transmitter)

2.) Understand why my Aristo switch motors (same ones I have been using) won't work consistently on my wye switch.

Again, I'm finding this site, and you in particular, have been VERY helpful in solving my problems.

Keith Johnson
 
That is interesting... I was going to ask about how you have 22 volts in to the controller, but only 10 out.

Is your 22 volt supply AC or DC? maybe that is the missing link.

But CONGRATULATIONS, it's nice when stuff finally works huh?

It's a nice helpful bunch of folks here, that's why I have come over here.

Greg
 
My input to the remote device is about 22V DC. I have no AC in the system. But doing further tests, what I have found out is only ONE of the connections on the remote device is functioning. SW-3 generates about 10V output to the switch motor, thus the need of connecting the switch motor using the 12V contacts. SW-1, SW-2 and SW-4 generate either zero and very small voltage output, barely discernible on a volt meter. Thus is the majority of my problem.

So I kept going. I tried the Piko motor on SW-1 and SW-2. No workie. Put it on SW-3, changed the type to FAST, and everything works beautifully for the Piko switch. So SW-3 drives Aristo switch motors in SLOW motion and SW-3 drives Piko motors in FAST motion. Everything is correct.

Now I just need to find a remote switch device (CRE 57074) where all 5 switch connections function. My saving grace is there really is only one primary switch in my system of four switches that I use the most where I want to have the remote access. My other three switches I don't use that much so I can continue to use my manual toggles.

It has been an interesting journey. Thanks for coming along with me.

Keith
 
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