bachmann spectrum magnum controller /mogul
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PaulRhB
This Way Up
Not sure what the Mogul draws under load but it will probably allow it to run light engine but I should think that's about it. I started with a 3 amp controller and found it limited to 2 locos and trains really with LGB and Bachmann.
If you get any Aristo or USA trains locos you'll need at least a 5 amp controller for double heading.
If you get any Aristo or USA trains locos you'll need at least a 5 amp controller for double heading.
stockers
Trains, aircraft, models, walking, beer, travel
the controller should have a safety overload switch built inside. The switch will trip out and your train will stop. A little while later (probably just a few seconds), it will switch on and your train will run again for a very short while. then the cycle starts again.
PaulRhB
This Way Up
Yes it's the controller that will suffer, temporarily unless you really overload it. The loco won't be affected at all.
Try it and if you have problems then look for a bigger unit. I found the Gaugemaster ones quite a bit short of their stated performance with the 5amp one barely managing 3 amps. I went with the LGB 5 amp for analogue and that comfortably ran 3 LGB or Bachmann powering 3 different circuits of track at a show.
Try it and if you have problems then look for a bigger unit. I found the Gaugemaster ones quite a bit short of their stated performance with the 5amp one barely managing 3 amps. I went with the LGB 5 amp for analogue and that comfortably ran 3 LGB or Bachmann powering 3 different circuits of track at a show.
LGB had (has?--im out if it now) weak controlers in their starter-packs, too.
I once had one and it is ok to run one small loco with it.
It was arround 1 Amp out, so it might be considered compareable.
For stronger Locos and some "heavy duty" like on grades, u should use a bigger one.
The mogul (spectrum) will be somekind "on the edge", the small industrial mogul will be fine with the small controler.
One more tip:
use some thicker wires and make good connections controler-wire and wire-track.
If your layout has some feet to go, supply the current on more points, reaching directly via wire. The track looses lots of voltage on the connectors track-to-track.
With a weak controler, you should avoid loosing power as good as u can.
A fine test of controler-duty is to have a look on its temperature. If your hand says: "hot", u should give it a break. When it heatens up very fast, it might do its job, but is definitely to small. A matching controler shouldnt reach more than "handwarm".
Greetings
Frank
I once had one and it is ok to run one small loco with it.
It was arround 1 Amp out, so it might be considered compareable.
For stronger Locos and some "heavy duty" like on grades, u should use a bigger one.
The mogul (spectrum) will be somekind "on the edge", the small industrial mogul will be fine with the small controler.
One more tip:
use some thicker wires and make good connections controler-wire and wire-track.
If your layout has some feet to go, supply the current on more points, reaching directly via wire. The track looses lots of voltage on the connectors track-to-track.
With a weak controler, you should avoid loosing power as good as u can.
A fine test of controler-duty is to have a look on its temperature. If your hand says: "hot", u should give it a break. When it heatens up very fast, it might do its job, but is definitely to small. A matching controler shouldnt reach more than "handwarm".
Greetings
Frank
no, the motor would not take damage.
There is no way to send "weak" power into a circuit.
So the loco cant differ between 5V coming "borderline" from a weak controler or 5V coming "free running" from a strong one.
The motor has its resistance, and giving it a voltage supply will cause a current flow. The more voltage it gets, the higher the current will come, the faster the loco will go or the harder it will work.
A weak controler will have the problem, that its output gets down, the more current flows.
A strong one will hold the wanted voltage even under duty. But as long as the voltage is egal oder under the technical data of the loco, a powerful controler cannot "overpower" a loco. The voltage will set the running current. So if your loco takes 2 amps at 18 V, it will do this even when the controler may bring 10 amps. But a weak controler with -say 1 amp- is connected, it will not be able to supply the loco. Switching to 18 V, the controler TRIES to bring it, but it will be in "overload", so that the current goes up over 1 amp, and the controler begins to break down. The voltage sinks as long as maximum possible power leaves the controler. That means, it does not run "normal". It runs on its edge an may get broken.
The "power-user" (the loco) just gets to less voltage with it and runs slow. Only high voltage (taht brings too much current with it) or no-matching forms of current (AC-DC...)may damage the motor.
The only thing i would think about is that a slow running loco under heavy duty may warm up. But thats not a problem of weak controlers. Thats a problem of too small and too weak motors in models. Good models from well known brands shouldnt have such problems. I run my bachmann connie very slow and often under heavy duty, and it has no problems until now.
The cheaper "Bighaulers" had some: adding weight to increase their very bad traction lead to hot motors.
greetings
Frank
There is no way to send "weak" power into a circuit.
So the loco cant differ between 5V coming "borderline" from a weak controler or 5V coming "free running" from a strong one.
The motor has its resistance, and giving it a voltage supply will cause a current flow. The more voltage it gets, the higher the current will come, the faster the loco will go or the harder it will work.
A weak controler will have the problem, that its output gets down, the more current flows.
A strong one will hold the wanted voltage even under duty. But as long as the voltage is egal oder under the technical data of the loco, a powerful controler cannot "overpower" a loco. The voltage will set the running current. So if your loco takes 2 amps at 18 V, it will do this even when the controler may bring 10 amps. But a weak controler with -say 1 amp- is connected, it will not be able to supply the loco. Switching to 18 V, the controler TRIES to bring it, but it will be in "overload", so that the current goes up over 1 amp, and the controler begins to break down. The voltage sinks as long as maximum possible power leaves the controler. That means, it does not run "normal". It runs on its edge an may get broken.
The "power-user" (the loco) just gets to less voltage with it and runs slow. Only high voltage (taht brings too much current with it) or no-matching forms of current (AC-DC...)may damage the motor.
The only thing i would think about is that a slow running loco under heavy duty may warm up. But thats not a problem of weak controlers. Thats a problem of too small and too weak motors in models. Good models from well known brands shouldnt have such problems. I run my bachmann connie very slow and often under heavy duty, and it has no problems until now.
The cheaper "Bighaulers" had some: adding weight to increase their very bad traction lead to hot motors.
greetings
Frank