Battery conversion Bachman railtruck/Goose I

The Shed said:
Seems all is well with the plan of action :clap:, only quandary is your own personnel preferences for the lighting control, Fosworks have an item which may well be worth looking into.
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I might look into that. I have the Fosworks reversible lighting feature built into another package from them that will be going into a Bowater models Conway Castle loco. The Goose does not appear to have or need directional lighting as both the head and taillight remain lit while running. I suppose it signaled its direction in the yard by the number of toots sounded on its horn. So it's just the stay alive function one needs to look at when it is at rest. The Fosworks/MLS package includes a start up and gear shift trigger activated from the TX :) Max
 
The Bachmann railtruck certainly has the reputation for breaking gearboxes and drive shafts.
It might be a good for someone who has a 3D printer to knock out a few drive shafts and pass them on for a few bob.
The gear and worm are another issue as 3D printed plastic does not seem to be totally appropriate for making gearing (but I am open to correction!).

Failing that George Schreyer comes partially to the rescue with his fix to stop the 'gear play' that causes premature wear... Bachmann Railtruck Tips
 
maxi-model said:
It works fine with the TE set either to PWM or Linear. I only reset my TE to Linear at some point in the past as there was advice on a forum that the Bachmann products were not overly fond of PWM and it was really the Aristo' locos that preferred their current delivered in that manner. I have no knowledge of the technical veracity surrounding this statement. The Crest TE is/was an Aristo' product in all but name. All bar 3 of my track powered vehicles are Bachmann products hence my mention of this.

My apologies to the more technically minded here if I seem to want to willfully follow the line of least resistance. I do accept your advice but here I feel the consequences of failure will not create an insurmountable "total loss" scenario. I guess I'm like most human beings.

As a little aside here are a couple of pictures, one a rough drawn plan view, that I am using to construct an as near prototypical "shed" to house all the new gubbins for this rail truck. I almost overlooked the rough drawing that confirms the existence of a passenger compartment built into the Goose I's latter incarnation before scrapping. If anybody knows where I can find or access an image showing the side view, that is obstructed, of the passenger compartment access I would be most grateful. Max

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Maybe there will be a lead to the image you're after here.
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2012 – Goose Fest – Day #1

For the past three days as part of a VIP package I have been at the Colorado Railroad Museum for a special fund-raising event know as Goose Fest which highlights the Rio Grande Southern (RGS) Gallo…
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maxi-model said:
I am using to construct an as near prototypical "shed" to house all the new gubbins for this rail truck.
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Max, there is a kit from Banta models for that box to fit the railtruck. You might get some ideas from their pics!
rail truck

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beavercreek said:
The Bachmann railtruck certainly has the reputation for breaking gearboxes and drive shafts.
It might be a good for someone who has a 3D printer to knock out a few drive shafts
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Mike, the drive shaft is just a square and can be replaced (with some fettlin') by a brass tube.

The older units had that front gearbox screw problem, but most 'newer' ones seem to be fine. The rear axle gears do break, like many Bachmann white nylon gears. Jiro Yeramian here in the USA (active on Facebook) can make Delrin replacements if he thinks there is a big enough market - he hasn't made the railtruck axle gear to my knowledge; yet.

Gearboxes for R/C cars, and slot car parts, are another good source for a replacement gear set. I built one using hypoid bevel gears designed 25 yrs ago for slot cars. I have not tried to fit one inside the existing axle.
 
maxi-model said:
My question is where do I solder in the outputs from the ESC to power the thing and could I make use of any the 4 terminals rather than soldering into a point on the board ?
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. . . and back to your original question - I think you will have to solder the ESC output to the board. I got a railtruck recently with a spare board and had to install it - there was no real problem attaching the pickup-wires to the L and R spots.
I would cut the existing wires 1/2" from the board and tape them together. Then connect (solder or screw terminal) your ESC to the L and R points on the board.
 
Fred2179G said:
Max, there is a kit from Banta models for that box to fit the railtruck. You might get some ideas from their pics!
rail truck

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Thanks Fred. I was aware of the Banta kit but while a fun design it is nowhere near the actual "shed" the RGS ended up producing for the rail truck. I had considered buying one until a Google search uncovered the pictures I found on the Ridgeway Railroad Museum site - Ridgway Railroad Museum .

That's my problem - I'm open to a lot of "freelance" options till evidence of a the actual prototype rears its head. Then my inner rivet counter manifests itself :D It's like as a small kid our concept of "detail" & "realistic" can be somewhat limited. As we, and in turn our knowledge grows, then we can start to get a little more, and perhaps sometimes for some peoples' taste too, discerning.. Max
 
I went the freelance route and built this body which slots into the pockets for the stakes so it's easily removable, always intended to do a passenger body as well but not got round to it yet!
 

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Very nice conversion you have done there Alcashj94. I like the Goose 2 influence, it really suits the Bachmann product. Like you I will be using the stock stake pockets for the body's attachment to allow easy removal and access to the electronic gubbins housed inside. Luckily the real life modified prototype used them as well, although they seem to be more widely spaced at the rear to accommodate a double door access. There is also the issue of the doors to the passenger compartment, possibly voiding the first pocket position nearest the cab on either side, I'm going to have to do some imagineering there.

I'm going to be using using the Evergreen polystyrene "novelty" siding product made specifically for 1:20.3 scale use, #14602, to provide the basic shell. That product's board spacing is spot on for the prototype. It's not cheap stuff for 12" x 24" sheet but a lot easier to do than lining up and cutting a load of strip wood. Did a lot of that when building an OcCre Madrid tram. Appropriated sized strip wood though will be used for the stakes and any surface beading/framing. We'll see how it goes. Max
 
Tony Walsham said:
You didn't miss anything Greg.
Maybe not too late for Max to bail.
Because break it will and no spares........

Maybe what this forum needs is a list of bad models and what is wrong with them!!!

AND/OR, list the really good ones.

AND/OR, list models that can be improved from stock to make them excellent.
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Hi folks there is an easy fix for the excess play in the drive shaft providing it hasint failed yet..once corrected the shaft should last .
 
alcashj94 said:
I went the freelance route and built this body which slots into the pockets for the stakes so it's easily removable, always intended to do a passenger body as well but not got round to it yet!
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Hello alcashj,,do you mind me asking did you 3d print the freelance section???
 
paul delany said:
Hi max yes indeed that's the one,I performed it on mine ,runs great,,however I do notice that is surges when going down my 10% grades but I dont how to resolve that issue??
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Yes, I too used George's fix for my railtruck but it still surges down my 5-12+% inclines. Apparently there is no cure and it can create problems for DCC with back-emf trying to keep velocity constant.
 
Gave mine a very good workout last evening, just to make sure the 'fix' still worked after 7 years or so.
I don't have any problems with downhill surge.... I don't have any downhill !
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Gave mine a very good workout last evening, just to make sure the 'fix' still worked after 7 years or so.
I don't have any problems with downhill surge.... I don't have any downhill !
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Much the same with me Gavin. Mind you, I did raise the front of the garden about a foot a 5 years back to get rid of my line's gradient :D I also lowered the path so all around the front of the layout everything is at a handy height as my body succumbs to the aging process. But that was not the sole reason for doing the work.

I'll check my rail truck when I have it apart for the conversion. It seems later build models were fixed, hope mine is one of those. The Fosworks TX supplied for this conversion includes inertia control. Steve, the proprietor of Fosworks, recommends this feature for any control option where a worm gear is part of a drive train. Seems reasonable to me. Given that most Bachmann products come with a health warning in that area I think I might be including this feature in all the other 12 I will be doing. Max

Earthworks to raise the garden and lower the path.

railway rebuild 004.JPG
 
It seems only a short while ago that these rail trucks were being knocked out at derisory prices so retailers could get them off their inventory by the boatload. For as long as I have been in this hobby, some 17 years, Bachmann Fn3 Spectrum locos have nearly all been available at either close out or low secondary market prices at just about any point. Probably because of the stigma attached to a lot of them due to well documented design oversights, mostly seemingly material related. Over time a lot of these issues were fixed in reissues or retrofitted to pre-existing product with parts from Bachmann and the likes of NorthWest Short Line to allow correction. That and the likes of George Schreyer & Greg, among others, posting helpful "fixes".

It seems a corner is being turned though. Looking at Al Kramer's Ebay offerings and some posts on more US centred forums prices are climbing on what were once seemingly reviled products for both their noted reliability issues and the somewhat niche nature of some of their subject choices. Then again there are some products they got right from the start that always attracted a premium in the 2nd hand market- Long Caboose anybody ? ;) There are rumors though that 2nd hand Heislers are starting fetch prices north of $700, and others like the K-27 are going that way too. I bought 2 fully boxed K-27 "shelf queens" for £400 each some years ago and an RGS 2-6-0 "American" and Connie' for £100 each, NIB, from a local retailer who burnt their fingers on Fn3. I might have some of the right locos but they are most certainly in the wrong place here in the UK. Warning - I'm not about to cash in as I bought them because I love 'em. Prising out of cold dead hands and all that:inlove: Max
 
The G scale "fad" came, peaked, and subsided in the USA.

Manufacturers rode the crest of the wave of popularity, and often overbuilt (numbers produced)... then as the hobby waned, there was too much stock, and prices for new items fell in the toilet.

The manufactures had to liquidate inventory, as evidenced by rock bottom prices from distributors.

When the supply ran out, many people questioned why the manufacturers did not start producing, and the answer is that with the hobby waning, the used market was full of inventory, much of it in pristine condition.

Finally in 2020, Kader (Bachmann) and USA Trains both saw there was again money to be made, even with more tariffs on China.... The story was the head of Bachmann saw used Aristo Dash 9's going for 900 to 1000 dollars.

Guess what? Kader (Bachmann) now making eggliners, the motor block for separate sale, and now the Dash 9.

USA Trains finally came out with their beautiful heavyweight passenger cars, and soon the FEF steamer, and will finally re-do the F3 to a F7...

Seems that Bachmann has somewhat soured on the 1:20.3 market though, probably still smarting from "giving away" Climaxes, C-19, K-27 and Shays. Many could be had new at $200

Greg
 
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