Before i do something stupid, please some advice.

[Paul M]

I have Gauge 1 track, the newer LGB stuff is fine, but I didn't pay anything like £21 a meter for it!

 

[justme igor]

I was looking into buying track so i could match my own, but that track is way off, sleepers, ties, safety rails, frog placement .
Thanks for thinking along, it is appreciated.

 

[PhilP]

At EUR 25.20 / GBP 21.67 per meter? That will make a bit of an expensive test piece.

Not as expensive as building 100m of track that nothing will run on reliably..

It could always be sold-on, once it had served its purpose.

PhilP

 

[pugwash]

Not as expensive as building 100m of track that nothing will run on reliably..

If I read rightly Igor is a dab hand at making his own track...

 

[dunnyrail]

If I read rightly Igor is a dab hand at making his own track...

He most certainly is, but he has built to quite close scale standards and is now having problems finding something to run on it till such time as he builds/finishes his own creations. Hope I have not said anything out of place justme igor i do respect your track and other building talents.

 

[justme igor]

Hope I have not said anything out of place

You certainly said nothing out of place.

but he has built to quite close scale standards

Yes, on prototypical scale, fine scale, 1at32 and at NMRA1 standards
Payed attention for frog placement length and width of the sleepers and ties, safety rail ect.
.
I build some experiments, now it is time to move on and put them to the test.
The one scale that will win the "exam" will be the scale that will become my track.(strait and curve are quickly build and easy)

To drive on the trackwork i need to be very skilled in building cars and locos.
Cars/wagons they all drive perfect to my surprise.
However, the loco i bought had a 40mm between the wheels, and a 2mm thick flange incl transition cone to the wheel surface.
I could stretch them up (i think) to my desired 42mm between the wheels, then it would run on those turnouts and what not.
But the wheels are a bit to thick.
Another "mistake" i made with some turnouts is flange baring on the frogs.
Printing in ABS can be very good for a turnout, but not for a crossover or such, the track is creeping out.
Wood and putty.

To keep it cheap with the wheels (incl casting and a lathe) and have good driving it is almost mandatory to have gaps of 2.5mm up to 3mm.
Before i am going to buy/make or even run live steam, i would like my track to be good.
ABS is with live steam also out of the question, it can deform with the radiation heat from the fire box and kettle.

Again, a BIG thank you for all the forum users that give me a bit of help!