Bridge building on the cheap!

trammayo

Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
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I have been wanting to extend my railway for a while now and have been collecting track for that purpose to give around another 110 feet of line. The existing "roundy roundy" setup is land locked - garden wall and shed on two sides and the drive on the other two. So, I needed to cross the direct path to the shed and also the drive - some fifteen feet.

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Originally I thought I could make a movable hinged bridge to swing out of the way and a much shorter lift-out bridge across the path. After due consideration, I realised my hinged bridge would get in the way when I parked the trailer between shows during the season. So I decided on two identical bridges with removable pier - with fixed, locating piers at either end of the combined two - and a shorter - three foot - lift-out.

Being double tracked, weight was a consideration so I looked at aluminium and realised that it might prove costly. I then thought of the 25 x 25 angle I had used on the trailer. This was a light-weight electro galv angle used in metal stud partitions. That used on the trailer (see pic) was embossed and had great rigidity.

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So going back to where I got it from in 2008, I worked out that 200ft should do the job. However, whilst all other components for stud walling were there, the angle was out of stock. After three visits, I was finally directed to the buying department who informed me that it would be a long while (next year even) before they got any more in. But, ever helpful, they contacted a contractor who used a lot of the stuff and asked if he had 20 lengths available which they would credit him with. He brought them into the depot and I collected and paid for them a couple oif days later. The only fly in the ointment was that these angles were plain and less rigid!

The smooth, but less stronger, angle looks better of course..
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So, ever adaptable, I modified my plans. I did a drawing 10mm = 1 inch, to test the cutting list and found that 5'9" section consumed around 80 feet of metal. With rivets, the cost per bridge will work out at around £19 each and a tenner for the small one.

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This how far I've got to-date. One base frame rivetted together and components cut for the second ....

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Gonna be impressive. Ill be interested in how you line up the track. I have a 6 foot lifting section (made from an old garden table) It never seems to be in the same place when I come to connect the track.
 
Cyclone said:
Ill be interested in how you line up the track. I have a 6 foot lifting section (made from an old garden table) It never seems to be in the same place when I come to connect the track.
I use Peco flexible track which is pinned down rather than loose laid. On the lift bridge the ends of the track on the bridge and the approaching line are not pinned close to the ends allowing a bit of sideways movement. When the bridge is lowered the tracks are aligned and held in place with a loose-ish fishplate on each end that is slip over both joins. Works a treat and conducts the leccy too.
 
Wobbleboxer said:
Cyclone said:
Ill be interested in how you line up the track. I have a 6 foot lifting section (made from an old garden table) It never seems to be in the same place when I come to connect the track.
I use Peco flexible track which is pinned down rather than loose laid. On the lift bridge the ends of the track on the bridge and the approaching line are not pinned close to the ends allowing a bit of sideways movement. When the bridge is lowered the tracks are aligned and held in place with a loose-ish fishplate on each end that is slip over both joins. Works a treat and conducts the leccy too.

I have a lift-out bridge on my trailer layout - all track is fastened down and I use a pair of fishplates which are tight on the fixed track but opened up to allow the bridge track to drop in. On the garden line, all is free floating but I may, when putting in the points for this new extension, use clamps as there is a lot of track to energise.
 
I've been busy in the shed and here is the result - one side finished. I also calculated the weight of the finished bridge to be around 4.3kg (not including track which will add just over 2kg) so I should manage that OK.

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The ends, top and bottom, are bent over as per pics. This adds strength but also presents a safer edge. Not particularly straight cutting but I haven't been to S+++savers yet!

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Going to try and do the other side now.
 
Lppks very impressive Mick
 
What do you mean 'not a particularly straight cutting'?! Looks absolutely excellent to me. I really like it and it's cheap :D
 
That is excellent work and it looks very good
 
Thanks for your comments everybody. Managed to get well on with the other side yesterday afternoon but .... have slowed down a little after breaking three drill bits in a row! How did you do that on something so thin you might ask? Bloomin easy so it seems:rolf:
 
Finished off the other side after finding my last pop rivet size drill bit. With the first side fixed on, I had to clamp a couple of "outriggers" on the imitation Workmates to allow the completed section to hang underneath...

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I took it outside in the sun - yes, we have sunshine after the showers - and thought I'd try a bit of track and position a couple of locos on it .....

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I need to complete the other matching bridge and then I will start the fixed piers and the centre removable one. Still need drill bits though although I might try waggling a 3mm one about. Then its load deflection testing. But then I am way ahead of reality there.... need to get back in the workshop!
 
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
i likes it!! well done...i did once make like tht yr in CARPET grippers!!!!! lol and of course flatted the nails down before i make it..lol then stain it with garden fence paints!!!...
 
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!

Ah, a man after my own heart. Spend less, get more. :thumbup:
 
Re:Bridge building on the cheap!

proper engineering!!:thumbup:
 
trammayo said:
Finished off the other side after finding my last pop rivet size drill bit. With the first side fixed on, I had to clamp a couple of "outriggers" on the imitation Workmates to allow the completed section to hang underneath...
Most impressive..... I do like you're choice in maggy lamps as well....
Im thinking of a similar solution to cross a driveway to allow my tramway to run along a side fence and the lattice solution does appeal, lightweight and strong. I lived for many years in Como a quiet backwater in Sydney with a nice bridge that I propose to copy using rule 8 as appropriate. There are lattice arches that were used to hold the catenary for electric trains though I'd use this for trolley wire.... the only technical hitch I see is some arrangement to connect the trolley wire and make it removeable...
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Thanks for your kind comments everybody.

Nice bridge to model Trev but could you lift it?
 
Very nice bridge. Looks the part.
 
Blooming brillaint 10 out of 10 :thumbup:
 
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