Chock blocks/chocbloks

What sort of current rating is required? These distribution board are quite popular in the small scales. Supposed to be rated 15 amps

18 way power distribution board

CN165-6_burned.jpg
 
What sort of current rating is required? These distribution board are quite popular in the small scales. Supposed to be rated 15 amps

18 way power distribution board

CN165-6_burned.jpg

Actually, I was planning to use it in reverse a it were. I'm setting up a station-stop/auto shuttle system and because there will be four or so stations on the layout it means that some terminals on the electronics will have four or more wires going into them. As an alternative, I thought that rather than do that each wire could have it's own terminal in a distributor and all could then feed into the single terminal on the electronics via what in usual practice is the power feed.
 
I think he wants a terminal strip:

We call this type a "barrier strip" because of the barriers between the sections, best suited for wires with crimped on lugs:
Z3K6uyfo5oy.JPG


For bare wires, this work better:
terminal-strip-block-117mm-with-wire-protector.jpg
I use the upper one on my O and G gauge railroads, I prefer those types, but I don't use crimps, I have used bare wire with "limited" success, but tinning the wire and bending it around the screw on the black terminal block does work best. If I do "crimp" the wire, I also TIN the wire I'm inserting into the crimp terminal, then once crimped in place, I solder the wire with a small amount of solder where it exits the crimp near the terminal block side. This has worked reliably for me for years. And if I need a single block with multiple wires from the same power point, I used a shunt across the screws, something like this:
Terminal Block Shunting Device
The photo in the link shows a shunt that will connect two screws together to make a single input connection with 2 output connections, they do make these in assorted lengths for any size/length terminal screw down block, like the top on {black terminal block} one pictured in this reply.

Yes, it's a little more work with crimping and then soldering, but I have found many times, the little extra work put into your connections like this last 10 times longer than most bare wire inserted connections like the 2nd one. When using bare wire, I had more breakage and more problems keeping current flowing, soldering has kept the current going strong, no overheating and worked very reliably over other methods I've tried.

But each person may have differing results, so this is just another idea tossed out there by another train enthusiast. After all, not everything works for everyone, but if we don't share what may work for us, another may not ever know about it, or if it will work for them until they try it out.

Just my 25¢ worth for today.

p.s. the reason I like the black terminal block, for me, they are easier to install since they already have mounting holes for screws to go into. And I don't have to try and fabricate something to mount them, unlike some others I've seen that don't, like the 2nd terminal block in this comment, the white one, you have to try and figure out how to mount that one. I like to try and keep things in the KISS area, "K"eep "I"t "S"imple "S"tupid!:D

EDIT: BTW: Don't know if that 2nd {white one} in this comment is PCB{Printed Circuit Board} mountable or not, can't really see any pins under it, some are and there are some that are not. The PCB type work best because you can get or make your own board to mount it on and drill mounting holes in the board. But I still believe the black terminal block as the best way to route single power to multiple areas on a railroad with my method described above.
 
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