Concrete Blocks (breezeblocks)

My 'breeze' blocks have been in situ for nearly ten years now. I haven't detected any signs of frost damage - they are mainly sited below ground with the upper surface open to the elements, albeit covered to some extent with cement-based ballast

Here's the trackbed as laid in the winter of 2005/6 (don't laugh, that was a hi-res digital image in 2006!)
IR114725024.jpg


Here's the same stretch of trackbed when I reballasted last year
IMG_7429.JPG


And here it is again just now ....
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With a closeup of one of the blocks which, as you see, seems to be bearing up well after ten years.
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How have y
My 'breeze' blocks have been in situ for nearly ten years now. I haven't detected any signs of frost damage - they are mainly sited below ground with the upper surface open to the elements, albeit covered to some extent with cement-based ballast

Here's the trackbed as laid in the winter of 2005/6 (don't laugh, that was a hi-res digital image in 2006!)
IR114725024.jpg


Here's the same stretch of trackbed when I reballasted last year
IMG_7429.JPG


And here it is again just now ....
View attachment 204947

With a closeup of one of the blocks which, as you see, seems to be bearing up well after ten years.
View attachment 204949
How have you done your concrete based ballast, looks really good.

I am thinking of using PVA diluted and poured over the ballast I have used on the rest of my layout. Has anyone else used PVA and if so, how much did you dilute it, and does it go white in the rain? Or did you use Exterior PVA?
 
Hi Duncan.
I have used PVA (waterproof) glue in the past mixed into a pot of ballast, undiluted and just enough to coat the ballast, and then placed where required using a craft trowel. Fine tweaking of the track for level prior to it setting. The PVA does go white the first couple of times it rains, but after this it is usually ok. I say usually because the last batch I used went white every time it got wet! - even though it was the same type as used before. I now mix satin yacht varnish with the ballast instead - takes a little longer to dry, and should be done during warmer weather, but once the satin look has weathered, it does last longer.
 
After a fair bit of experimentation, I've now settled on using tile cement (I use BAL Rapidset Flexible). It's a bit more expensive than plain old cement, but it seems to include some sort of PVA type additive. I mix it with some local sand and potting grit in roughly equal quantities (ie 1:1:1). I did try some cheaper tile cement but the water wouldn't break through the surface tension of the cement (even though I put quite a few drops of detergent in it) unlike the BAL.

There's an account of my approach on this Progress Report on my Blog - http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/progress-report-54.html

It also shows how I relaid a stretch of trackbed after it became uneven (the roots from the hedge undermined it). The beauty of using loosely laid blocks is the ease with which sections can be relaid if you want to re-route your railway or need to relay it because foundations move (inevitable if you have undergrowth nearby).

Rik
 
After a fair bit of experimentation, I've now settled on using tile cement (I use BAL Rapidset Flexible). It's a bit more expensive than plain old cement, but it seems to include some sort of PVA type additive. I mix it with some local sand and potting grit in roughly equal quantities (ie 1:1:1). I did try some cheaper tile cement but the water wouldn't break through the surface tension of the cement (even though I put quite a few drops of detergent in it) unlike the BAL.

There's an account of my approach on this Progress Report on my Blog - http://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/progress-report-54.html

It also shows how I relaid a stretch of trackbed after it became uneven (the roots from the hedge undermined it). The beauty of using loosely laid blocks is the ease with which sections can be relaid if you want to re-route your railway or need to relay it because foundations move (inevitable if you have undergrowth nearby).

Rik
That looks really impressive. I have read your 'instructions'. Where can the tile cement be bought, Wickes? This is my chosen method now. Certainly looks rabbit proof.
 
To conclude the track laying part, this is the finished line (to the summit anyway) and now I just need to ballast, as Rik recommended.DSC_0088.JPG
 
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