Converting a Big Hauler from D cells to R/C Car Battery

Well, you say "no fuse can limit this".... as stated that is not true... you could pick a fuse that would blow before the motor turned, and you could pick a fuse that would let the motor melt down in a bad situation (perhaps locking the rotor for extended times)

so that statement really makes no sense to me...

Otherwise I agree with your statements.

The insulation one is a little different... motors are wound with "magnet wire" which is a very thin coating, and SHOULD be pretty heat resistant... the Aristo motors were counterfeits and the insulating coating self destructed under heat... Aristo purchased replacement motors for all production and gave them to the unfortunate owners.

So it's really not the insulation thickness (which must be thin for efficiency) but the quality of application and heat resistance.

Regards, Greg
 
justme igor said:
never put higher v on a dc motor than it was rated for, the A is what it wants to get its function done.

With best regards Igor
Click to expand...

Though I do agree, a lot of motors are vague about their voltage rating with no makings that indicate what it is, and googling any marking bring up mixed results. More surprising some of the lower voltage motors are only rated in a single direction when a specification sheet is supplied.
 
Exactly Jimmy! Also, the same motor may be sold with different voltage and max power (horsepower) ratings.

Aristo-craft was a huge manufacturer of G scale trains for a while, and getting sold counterfeit motors is a telling lesson.

Actually voltage is normally not an issue, since higher voltage itself causes little issues with a quality motor. Its the heat from the load on the motor, which causes heat. I've run some Pittman motors so hard that the plastic parts inside (insulators, coil forms, etc.) literally melted and locked up the motor. The motor was willing, but could not shed the heat.

Greg
 
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