DC Remote Polarity Reversal

L

liam0404

Registered
Hi all,

Starting to get some track down on my layout and so now starting to think about power and control.

I'm keeping it simple at the moment and sticking with DC, but would like some sort of remote control.

I've seen this raised before about varying the voltage for speed with an LED Dimmer switch that has a remote key fob (eBay for like £6, thumbs up), but it raises the question, how do I remotely switch polarity for forward/reverse?

I know a simple DPDT switch will do it but that's not remote enough, so i found this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/160170807052?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

For both remote systems looking at about £60 due to import charges as it's in America, not bat IMO for full remote control.
What do y'all think or am I going completely in the wrong direction with this?

Thanks!
 
Nice catch! I don't see anything about controlling speed though.
 
Madman said:
Nice catch! I don't see anything about controlling speed though.
Click to expand...

Ahh, I was going to wire in of these in before the Polarity Switcher - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-IR-Remote-LED-Light-Dimmer-Brightness-Controller-Switch-Lamp-8A-12V-UK-/191160638405?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item2c820fdbc5

So I would have one fob for the speed (Dimmer), and another fob for the direction (Polarity)
 
Tony Walsham said:
Just remember that if your RR is going to be outdoors IR simply will not work.
Click to expand...

I was going to put the power and receivers in a nearby shed, and then cable out to the track, would this still work or will the infra-red still have trouble?
 
Light - particularly strong light (sunlight) interferes with the infrared. I know because I had to change from infrared detection to induction loops (in an earlier life that is ;D ).
 
So... you're looking for remote control for a track-powered DC line?

Can't help thinking that there should be a reasonably priced RC system out there for you rather than bodging together LED dimmers and relays etc. Not something I can advise on specifically as I run DCC, but I know lot's of folk used the Aristocraft Train Engineer (the proper "black" version not the cheaper "orange" set). At least two of my friends use them on their lines. Not made any more I believe, but still turns up on ebay.

I'm sure someone will suggest a suitable system.
 
liam0404 said:
I was going to put the power and receivers in a nearby shed, and then cable out to the track, would this still work or will the infra-red still have trouble?
Click to expand...

As long as the IR handpiece was in the shed as well it might work.
I played around with IR for Large Scale in 1989. Direct into the locos.
Managed 300' at night.
More like 12 inches in bright sunlight.
 
ntpntpntp said:
So... you're looking for remote control for a track-powered DC line?

Can't help thinking that there should be a reasonably priced RC system out there for you rather than bodging together LED dimmers and relays etc. Not something I can advise on specifically as I run DCC, but I know lot's of folk used the Aristocraft Train Engineer (the proper "black" version not the cheaper "orange" set). At least two of my friends use them on their lines. Not made any more I believe, but still turns up on ebay.

I'm sure someone will suggest a suitable system.
Click to expand...

Found a black Aristocraft Train Engineer with separate gaugemaster power supply for £150. Good deal?
 
ntpntpntp said:
So... you're looking for remote control for a track-powered DC line?

Can't help thinking that there should be a reasonably priced RC system out there for you rather than bodging together LED dimmers and relays etc. Not something I can advise on specifically as I run DCC, but I know lot's of folk used the Aristocraft Train Engineer (the proper "black" version not the cheaper "orange" set). At least two of my friends use them on their lines. Not made any more I believe, but still turns up on ebay.

I'm sure someone will suggest a suitable system.
Click to expand...

http://www.gscalegraphics.net/store/c12/Track_Power.html
 
I found some a bit less expensive, after I logged off last night.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/281318516028?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 
Here is an RF controlled LED dimmer controller works up to 24V and 12A
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wireless-12V-Remote-Dimmer-Switch-Controller-Mini-LED-Dimmer-Strip-Light-RF/370857726830?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D5f422417b1634e42a06f1105f1f4f47e%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D20140122125356%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D191160638405&rt=nc
 
If you want to keep costs as low as possible you could go for Greg's Picaxe controlled version using a cheapo keyfob as the controller. On his website is the circuit diagram for the track-powered set-up which he used to use before he went over to battery power.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/electronics.htm

He now uses the same circuitry for some of his battery-powered locos and I can testify as to its effectiveness having seen one of his keyfob controlled locos running on my railway recently. he even managed to program the same Picaxe chip to create diesel loco sounds as well. I'm sure he would advise if you needed help.

Rik
 
I built this and installed it into train, it works quite well.

http://www.trainelectronics.com/Articles/RadioControl-LED-8Amp/index.htm#Using_a_PICAXE_for_the_Reversing_Circuit

At a rated 8A it should be able to handle track powered locos.

I used the T Mart variant and just followed the instructions.

The only down side is that you will have possibly buy a USB picxaxe programming cable if you do not have a serial output on your computer.

I invested in one but I also use picaxe for sound and to delay my diesel movement till after the engine revs sound builds.

Gregh has heaps of picaxe ideas on his "Sandstone & Termite" website.

Picaxe is a UK based educational organization and they have the programming software and drivers as free downloads.
 
If I could go back, alot of years, I would have paid attention to the electrons, instead of the electrifying girl next to me, in electronics class.
 
I've gone and bought the Aristo Crest Train Engineer (black edition with telescopic aerial) and Gaugemaster M12 power supply to go with it. Seems to do everything I need it to at this stage, and what with it being radio I can see what else I can get it to do in the future. Should be here in the next couple of days. Thanks for the help this far!
 
liam0404 said:
I've gone and bought the Aristo Crest Train Engineer (black edition with telescopic aerial) and Gaugemaster M12 power supply to go with it. Seems to do everything I need it to at this stage, and what with it being radio I can see what else I can get it to do in the future. Should be here in the next couple of days. Thanks for the help this far!
Click to expand...

I take it, that by now, you should be up and running with your TE. A wise choice, in my opinion. Have you had any specific problems ?
 
liam0404 said:
I've gone and bought the Aristo Crest Train Engineer (black edition with telescopic aerial) and Gaugemaster M12 power supply to go with it. Seems to do everything I need it to at this stage, and what with it being radio I can see what else I can get it to do in the future. Should be here in the next couple of days. Thanks for the help this far!
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I used for years. Its a good solid set up and works well. (although I did eventually go digital). You can even get a R/C points controller to go with it.
 
Can't go wrong with the TE. I still use it when I want to run DC locos and leave my DCC kit on the shelf.

Just don't let the TX get damp at all (rain, dew cold into warm etc). The pcb solder tends to corrode so easily! (of course the other thing would be to spray the board with corrosion inhibiter as a precaution (don't ask me how I know!).

The other thing is to check the batteries for contact corrosion from time to time. For some reason one of my TE TXs would corrode a battery quite frequently.

I may still have a couple of the TE RC accessory/points controller modules spare......5 items can be controlled by each module(points can even be doubled up) and then controlled from the TX.
 
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