DC Remote Polarity Reversal

beavercreek said:
Can't go wrong with the TE. I still use it when I want to run DC locos and leave my DCC kit on the shelf.

Just don't let the TX get damp at all (rain, dew cold into warm etc). The pcb solder tends to corrode so easily! (of course the other thing would be to spray the board with corrosion inhibiter as a precaution (don't ask me how I know!).

The other thing is to check the batteries for contact corrosion from time to time. For some reason one of my TE TXs would corrode a battery quite frequently.

I may still have a couple of the TE RC accessory/points controller modules spare......5 items can be controlled by each module(points can even be doubled up) and then controlled from the TX.
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I don't suppose you are willing to part with the point controls are you?

I've been looking at automating the points and see it pointless to have a switch board i have to walk to all of the time to switch them, may as well have kept the LGB controller if I was going to stand in the shed and control everything!
 
Gavin Sowry said:
I take it, that by now, you should be up and running with your TE. A wise choice, in my opinion. Have you had any specific problems ?
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Haven't actually managed to get a lot of use out of it, just because I have literally only just started laying track outside. I set up a quick test loop in the house with it and was impressed with how simple it is to use! Only main issue was it's a bit laggy when you press a control (have to hold the forward button for 5 seconds before anything happens) but that could just be down to me being an impatient youth!! Seems like I can do a lot more than I originally thought, i.e. point control, so will be looking into this.
 
liam0404 said:
... Only main issue was it's a bit laggy when you press a control (have to hold the forward button for 5 seconds before anything happens) ...
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Pretty sure the TE has a setting to change that response and speed up acceleration/deceleration? I have 2-3 friends with TEs (don't have one myself) and I'm sure we adjusted this for one of them.
[edit]

Yes, see the section regarding the momentum control on page 8 of the instructions here
http://www.trickedouttrains.com/Manuals/Aristocraft%20-%20Train%20Engineer%2055470.pdf
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You can adjust the inertia setting as part of the linking process. If only I could find the instructions I would tell you how.

I think the Train Engineer does a great job especially with point control as well. I still think there is a market for this type of unit. I don't feel the need for DCC and I certainly wouldn't want to face the cost of fitting over 20 locos and 11 points with chips - reckon it would cost me over £3k for that lot.
 
The great thing about the TE is the fact you can pull it out of the box, connect it up and it will pretty much work with anything!
 
That looks a good system. 2.4Ghz is meant to be bombproof. I just wonder what the output is though. Pulsed modulation is not good for modern electronics in locos. Does anyone know what this outputs
 
stockers said:
That looks a good system. 2.4Ghz is meant to be bombproof. I just wonder what the output is though. Pulsed modulation is not good for modern electronics in locos. Does anyone know what this outputs
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Alan - Our output is PWM that switches at 20KHZ. I believe the "problems" you are referring to may have occurred with older systems (Like the A/C Train Engineer of old) that had a much lower frequency PWM drive. We have shipped hundreds of our RailBoss PWM output units and have never had any reported problems with PWM and factory electronics that couldn't play well together. The only personal experience with that problem was with the old TE and older LGB locos. It made the lights and sound go flaky, but no actual damage to any circuitry.
 
Low frequency PWM DC can confuse (but not damage) DCC decoders, but PWM itself isn't a problem for the general sort of electronics you find in non-DCC locos.
 
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