DCC Track conversion for LGB

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tomnewsom

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I inherited lots of trains and track from my dad who passed 9 years ago. I have set up a double loop in the front yard and want to go from DC to DCC. I hear that I need to make sure the tracks are solidly connected. I've watched some videos regarding soldering jumper wires between each section of track and have tried to do the same. I find it near impossible and wondered if anyone has more information, a different approach or some other way to get this done?

Thanks Tom from San Diego
 
tomnewsom said:
I inherited lots of trains and track from my dad who passed 9 years ago. I have set up a double loop in the front yard and want to go from DC to DCC. I hear that I need to make sure the tracks are solidly connected. I've watched some videos regarding soldering jumper wires between each section of track and have tried to do the same. I find it near impossible and wondered if anyone has more information, a different approach or some other way to get this done?

Thanks Tom from San Diego
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Another option with LGB track is to use Massoth Track Clamps, this does involve removal of the LGB fishplates a taskk that can be a bit tricky till you find a good way. This is one way, but suggest you do it with a more robust screwdriver and not on the carpet!
 
I’m a fan of the Massoth clamps, however there is another cheap and dirty option that one of our club members uses with great success: he drills a small hole on an angle right through the rail joiner into the rail, then screws in a small self-tapping screw into it. You need one on each side of the joint and it takes some experimentation o get the perfect drill size for the size of screw you are using.
 
Keith RhB said:
I’m a fan of the Massoth clamps, however there is another cheap and dirty option that one of our club members uses with great success: he drills a small hole on an angle right through the rail joiner into the rail, then screws in a small self-tapping screw into it. You need one on each side of the joint and it takes some experimentation o get the perfect drill size for the size of screw you are using.
Click to expand...
I use Aristocraft track, and their screw joiners, and when joining to cut or none Aristocraft track I drill and tap 2 mm hole. I am dead track, but this helps stop the from moving away from each other.
 
Keith RhB said:
I’m a fan of the Massoth clamps, however there is another cheap and dirty option that one of our club members uses with great success: he drills a small hole on an angle right through the rail joiner into the rail, then screws in a small self-tapping screw into it. You need one on each side of the joint and it takes some experimentation o get the perfect drill size for the size of screw you are using.
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That could work with BA screws and correct tapping drill then tapping the rail, but LGB brass is notoriously hard so expect lots of broken drills.
 
Splitjaw or Massoth rail clamps are the optimal solutions. Splitjaw come in over the joiner version so you dont have to remove the fishplates. This allows you to easily make changes to your track without soldering. Its an expense but well worth it for years of operation.
 
Track clamps or soldering are undoubtedly the technically superior solution but you might be fine using fishplates, especially in the San Diego climate. Personally I'd give it a try.

I've been running a DCC layout in the cold, wet UK using fishplates and copper grease. If I set up the layout again I'd use actual conductive grease as it's designed for the job, which I didn't know at the time. The rails and fishplates were spotless and tight when installed and are held down securely with screws into decking.

Problems with insufficient voltage for DCC have only arisen if the rail head isn't clean.
 
notofthiscenturyTim said:
Track clamps or soldering are undoubtedly the technically superior solution but you might be fine using fishplates, especially in the San Diego climate. Personally I'd give it a try.
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If your track is fixed it MAY be okay, however if you are floating your track, then the tracks slowly drift apart, till no longer connected. I am dead rail but my track screw to each other.
 
JimmyB said:
If your track is fixed it MAY be okay, however if you are floating your track, then the tracks slowly drift apart, till no longer connected. I am dead rail but my track screw to each other.
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Spot on. The track can't move and the fishplates are tight so the opportunities for dirt and water ingress are minimal.

The other advantage of fishplates is that reconfiguring the layout is quite easy. That can be useful if you're still working out what you want. E.g. I needed longer straights before and after opposing curves and points/turnouts than I had realised to avoid derailments of a particularly long loco, the Piko E94.
 
tomnewsom said:
I inherited lots of trains and track from my dad who passed 9 years ago. I have set up a double loop in the front yard and want to go from DC to DCC. I hear that I need to make sure the tracks are solidly connected. I've watched some videos regarding soldering jumper wires between each section of track and have tried to do the same. I find it near impossible and wondered if anyone has more information, a different approach or some other way to get this done?

Thanks Tom from San Diego
Click to expand...
I have had an oval of track outside for several years. It is all LGB sectional track. For a few years it was working well, but eventually I experienced “dead spots” where the locos would stop. This indicated that some of the connectors between the track segments had lost electrical connectivity. I tried screw-on clamps with limited success. I did not want to remove the rail connectors because it would involve a lot of work as these metal parts are tough. After trying various remedies such as filing the insides of the rail connectors, again with limited success, I found a product that seems to be working. Now, when I identify a section of track that lacks power, I use

PIKO 36215 Conductive Paste.​

(Font change due to cut and paste). I separate the track sections and squeeze the stuff into the rail connectors and also give the connectors a little squeeze with needle nose pliers and connect them together again. I wipe the rail with a towel as it can be slippery resulting in lack of traction. This is working for me. I recently started using DCC with Blunami which is sensitive to track power and it works reliably. From time to time it needs to be repeated due to weather and time. I get the conductive paste from onlytrains.com which I recommend since the people there are great, but you can find it from other suppliers if you choose. It is not a large investment of money or time and it may solve the problem. Hope this helps.
 
Hi, pull off the original LGB tabs with pliers, you have to pull hard. I've had Massoth rail connectors on my tracks for ages, they're perfect. The LGB tabs come apart over time and dirt and rain get in, the grease is messy and your hands turn black.
Greetings

48936008me.jpg
 
dlorenzini101 said:
I tried screw-on clamps with limited success.
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate on this? Which clamps?

I've never seen a situation where good quality rail clamps (Splitjaw, Massoth) did not improve all aspects of performance. Splitjaw are the only over-the-joiner variety I'm aware of. I dont use any conductivity paste but rather no-oxidization grease on the joiners and rail ends. This keeps them from tarnishing and good conductivity, and doesnt really need to be reapplied unless moving stuff around.
 
Most methods of removing fishplates can be quite destructive, particularly on points. Here the connecting tabs between tracks can be easily dislocated affecting continuity between rails. My preferred method is seen on post 44.
dunnyrail

Post in thread 'Short Track Pieces'

Having not been able to find the Vid and seeing lots of methods I decided to post pics that I have taken today note that it is somewhat similar to the one that Jimmy uses but as in all these things a little different. I will repeat my description but this time with pictures.

step 1, a small piece of LGB rail in the part of the track that does not have any rail with a short gap for a big screwdriver.
step 2, grip little piece of rail and fishplate in a vice with the full length of track or point dangling from the vice.
7C705794-D96A-474B-97C3-92BB107EFA5C.jpeg
step 3, insert screwdriver and push full length of rail...
 
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