Dummies Guide To Convert A Track Powered G Scale Locomotive To Rc Battery Powered
- Thread starter Mobi
- Start date
I assume you mean one like this, I use this one to test out varying Battery Installations and equipment. Hence the additional wiring etc. a Yellow and Green wire come out of the chassis from the motor. Brown and White to the pickups.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I am still trying to find the logic behind having both R/C and DC powered locos; why have dual power systems, can someone please explain to me what is the logic behind this concept?
I have converted all my locos to R/C and have remove the skates/track pickups and run them on DC powered tracks at other peoples places with no issue what so ever, as the wheels are isolated from the motor there is not any power transfer between the DC track and the batteries.
For the beginner this is my method (it follows the KISS principle) it is basic but expandable if required.
I simply removed all the electrical boards and the track pickups leaving me with a shell and a motor block with terminals exposed (Note manufacturer wire colour code is irrelevant as I take all wiring out and use the standard Red=+ and Black =-) the ESC is then wired directly to the motor with the R/C receiver connected to the ESC (manufacturer wiring directions are followed).
Any lights are connected across the motor terminals, I use LEDs for directional lighting, but across the battery (a good method to see if the loco is still switched on) will work fine just not directional.
A sound card that reacts to the motor drive voltage can also be connected across the motor terminals, they give sound usually after a certain voltage is reached ( I use Mylocosound).
This is for a simple battery/ Radio Control loco only; if the user wants all the bells and whistles then this will not be for you (personally I find bells and whistles annoy both me and my neighbours)
I have converted all my locos to R/C and have remove the skates/track pickups and run them on DC powered tracks at other peoples places with no issue what so ever, as the wheels are isolated from the motor there is not any power transfer between the DC track and the batteries.
For the beginner this is my method (it follows the KISS principle) it is basic but expandable if required.
I simply removed all the electrical boards and the track pickups leaving me with a shell and a motor block with terminals exposed (Note manufacturer wire colour code is irrelevant as I take all wiring out and use the standard Red=+ and Black =-) the ESC is then wired directly to the motor with the R/C receiver connected to the ESC (manufacturer wiring directions are followed).
Any lights are connected across the motor terminals, I use LEDs for directional lighting, but across the battery (a good method to see if the loco is still switched on) will work fine just not directional.
A sound card that reacts to the motor drive voltage can also be connected across the motor terminals, they give sound usually after a certain voltage is reached ( I use Mylocosound).
This is for a simple battery/ Radio Control loco only; if the user wants all the bells and whistles then this will not be for you (personally I find bells and whistles annoy both me and my neighbours)
I think part of the logic is simple return to original condition for resale. There is also the possibility to run track power if it offends lines owners one visits as battery locomotives can be seen as ”out of control” a rubbish concept in my view. If one is using battery dcc then track power is an easier way to update cv’s as well. But other than that I can see no logic and have removed all pickups on my battery conversions as you have done.
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I did visit a layout once and ran my battery loco via R/C, I was just sitting quietly driving it; well the comments of "who is controlling that loco" came thick and fast, I said nothing for a fair while before owning up.
It was so funny to watch the "purists" go into a flat spin over a battery loco on the layout, especially seeing as I had converted an LGB one, a bit of 'what a philistine for doing that to an LGB loco', but the owner didn't have a problem with it. Didn't go back again.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
As I found out, when converting to battery, track contacts MUST be disconnected, or ALL track connections must be disconnected, otherwise the battery will discharge along any track connections. Total disconnection is the easiest, but if you wish to keep your track and battery a DPDT (centre off preferred) switch of suitable amperage is required.
Yes I should have mentioned that, the DPDT CO switch does the trick.
Last edited:
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I love it...
Answer to GAP and Dunny, why have a dual power unit?
1. visiting railroad and your batteries need a charge, you need to run longer
2. yes, I've even seen multi-millionaires' locos go out of control and smash into stuff on batteries, when an "all stop" switch on the mainline would work. (the wireless stop command failed)
and on and on....
There's tons of reasons, and indeed if battery or track power was the be all end all, then the "other choice" would basically not exist.
I can find an opposing statement for almost every "pro" or "con" for battery vs. track power.
With the increasing feature content in new locos, the "need" to rip out existing circuit boards is waning... and as more people want these new features, the ability to interface R/C seems to be getting easier as opposed to the "rip out and throw away" ...
In any case there's more than one "right answer" for the hobby.
Greg
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Note - from Peter Sporer's site
Important Notice
As of the 1st. of January 2018, all my Radio Control and Sound Card activities have been taken over by Steve Foster of Fosworks.
At the grand old age of 70, I have decided to retire from selling Radio control equipment and Sound cards. Steve has taken over my entire range of OMNI transmitters and receivers, and all my Sound Cards, Plug'N'Play systems etc., so if you would like a complete set of R/C equipment you must now contact him. Steve is a highly skilled and innovative technician who I know will carry on the business in the future superbly well. I will now become one of his agents!
Fosworks Good kit, used it on my K-27. Surprised you missed that one Jon
Sometimes an installation, for dummies like me, is not that straightforward Converting Accucraft K-27 to battery r/c - G Scale Central and you end up with something that costs a bit more than one of Roundhouse's bulletproof battery locos 
But as they say, every little helps. Max
Important Notice
As of the 1st. of January 2018, all my Radio Control and Sound Card activities have been taken over by Steve Foster of Fosworks.
At the grand old age of 70, I have decided to retire from selling Radio control equipment and Sound cards. Steve has taken over my entire range of OMNI transmitters and receivers, and all my Sound Cards, Plug'N'Play systems etc., so if you would like a complete set of R/C equipment you must now contact him. Steve is a highly skilled and innovative technician who I know will carry on the business in the future superbly well. I will now become one of his agents!
Fosworks Good kit, used it on my K-27. Surprised you missed that one Jon
Sometimes an installation, for dummies like me, is not that straightforward Converting Accucraft K-27 to battery r/c - G Scale Central and you end up with something that costs a bit more than one of Roundhouse's bulletproof battery locos But as they say, every little helps. Max
Mobi
Registered
No problem at all
I have not been here lately. But Corona lock down has made me interested in garden railways again.
Hi. Mobi, good to see you back.No problem at all
JonD
TTaannggss
Hates T.P.& r1Cur. Retired for 3 after 40 in Hosp.
I would be afraid I would totally wreck my new locomotive. I once did this in ho....used it as a track cleaner engine. Can I use the same transformer on g scale as I used on ho scale?
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I gather you are a new member. A common mistake is to tag on an old thread but asking a different question.
I would strongly advise to create a new thread and ask your question, and also maybe give some background.
By the way, the short answer is "it depends" and I will not elaborate, too many fundamental questions need to be answered, and you can help people answer the question by indeed introducing youself, what gear you have, what you want to build, space, budget, etc.
Planning and thinking it through will give you the best success in the future.
Hope to see you on the "new members" forum with an introduction soon.
Greg
I would strongly advise to create a new thread and ask your question, and also maybe give some background.
By the way, the short answer is "it depends" and I will not elaborate, too many fundamental questions need to be answered, and you can help people answer the question by indeed introducing youself, what gear you have, what you want to build, space, budget, etc.
Planning and thinking it through will give you the best success in the future.
Hope to see you on the "new members" forum with an introduction soon.
Greg