Europeanizing a Liliput Diesel Lok V3

jameshilton

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Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

I acquired the Lilliput Diesel Lok V3 for Christmas. It's a lovely model based on the Bachmann Davenport - the headlights and exhaust stack do a half decent job of Europeanizing the model but it's American origins are still quite clear in the buffer beam areas.

Running is excellent out of the box with no stalling on R1 points.

I thought a little work in these areas would drastically improve the model - and here is how I have done it.

Very simply by adding buffers and removing the foot board and coupling cut bar.

The coupling cut bar and foot board are mounted to the buffer beam with a quantity of small machine screws. Using watchmakers screw drivers these were carefully removed before replacing the screws to plug the holes - they also in my eye give some visual interest to the buffer beams.
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The LGB locomotive buffers (very kindly donated by Dave - doctorM) were attached by shaping the shank to fit the coupling, and then drilling a small hole through both the buffer and coupling. This allowed the buffer to be not only Superglued, but also pinned to the coupling for robustness.
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Three very minor changes that took under an hour to perform - that have lifted this model.
I've got some custom transfers to add the roadname and number, although at present I'm toying with the idea of painting the bufferbeams red to be more British - as the EJ&KLR is theoretically a preserved railway somewhere in the UK - and wondering where I can buy brake hose from to add a brake pipe to each end.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

jameshilton said:
I'm . . . wondering where I can buy brake hose from to add a brake pipe to each end.


Roundhouse Vacuum pipes are £13.75 a pair at KGR - http://www.kgrmodels.co.uk/ B... prior to painting. Or is life too short?
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

Oooh now there's an idea! I might try that if I can't find any LGB ones!
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

I've got plans for this looking at the photos - I need to sort out that buffer - the shank looks too weedy so I'll cobble together something that looks like the coupler body, but keep some flexibility in the mounting.

I can't decide on the buffer beams so they'll stay black for now! I've got the EJ&KLR plates ready to go on...
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

Completely agree with comments. a good model runs well out of the box.
Can I just add a tip regarding removing and refitting small screws.
Only remove two at a time in this case, remove bracket, and then replace the two screws BEFORE removing the next ones. Handle with tweezers and a magnetic screwdriver if possible.
My LGB spare screws box does not include any this small.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

It's a 5 pole I believe - but I don't know about running on DCC power, I guess it depends on if your DCC system allows the control of a non-chipped locomotive.

I've added the 'plates' to the cab with custom EJ&K transfers on - and added small 'No.2' transfers to the bufferbeams (as the EJ&K is a preserved railway in the UK - No.1 is a Stainz!). I also added some plasticard around the buffer mounting to beef it up - visually this is a big success so I've superglued the couplings in the centre position to remove their flexibility and the box is then glued together (liquid poly on itself) and then superglued to the shank and buffer beam.

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I tried painting the buffer beams bright red, it looked odd so they were restored to black.
I've not decided whether to keep the white edge to the buffer or paint it all black - opinions please!


The final thing - I was going to paint the roof black, but my Dad said he preferred it silver - so at the moment I don't intend to repaint it. What do others think?



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Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

The buffer shank housing certainly improves the appearance - presumably you have done this at both ends.

As for the roof I think I agree with your Dad, the silver (I thought it was grey) gives it a visual lift, and black could be a bit on the drab side. On a practical note, a silver metal roof would keep the cab a lot cooler than a dark one.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

there is a very good leaflet with this engine. under the bonnet top which can be removed after taking off the chimney, ther is a connection point to fit a decoder. a very useful feature for such a small loco.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

Well I'm revisiting this model already!!

Looking at the cab I just couldn't get my eyes off the rivets - very un-European to my eye, along with the 'Davenport' on the hood...

I'll do a proper step by step write up soon but here she is at present standing outside the new Engine Shed (also on the workbench to be finished).
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0.9mm wire used for the handrails and door grab handles (filed flat to look more like handles).

and a close up of the windscreen wipers, made from 0.9, 0.7 and 0.45mm brass rod. The 0.9mm arm has been filed into a tapered square section, the parallel link is 0.45 and the wiper arm 0.7mm - all soldered up (with nicely burnt fingers!).
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I hope to get a coat of primer on the bodywork tonight to check I've smoothed over the removed detail sufficiently. It's likely to end up orange (of all colours) unless anyone can convince me to the contrary, lettered up (in full this time - not limited by the little black placard's length) EJ&KLR, No.2 along with a few other smaller notices on the cab side. I think the roof will be satin black.

Does it need a horn? If so where can I get one?
Does it need air brake pipes - again anyone know where you can get LGB ones from?
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

jameshilton said:
It's a 5 pole I believe - but I don't know about running on DCC power, I guess it depends on if your DCC system allows the control of a non-chipped locomotive.
My local model shop fitted a DC/DCC sound decoder into one of these and worked well.

I'm about to fit a similar MRC decoder into a Shoema diesel....
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

Woderwick said:
For a hose I mean

Get an old E string from a bass guitar? Even thicker....
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

A little useful tip for making "flexible hose" in any size you want - it is possible to get, from specialist model suppliers, very fine LEAD wire (actually in many thicknesses, from hair-fine up to 1mm or so diameter). This is pure lead, so is incredibly flexible but it will also stay in whatever shape you put it. I used to get mine from a small model shop in Ipswich that has sadly now closed down, but I'm sure it's available from specialist suppliers online.
All you do is get a fine piece of brass rod (or copper, or whatever you prefer) to act as the core, then tightly wind the lead wire around it in a spiral (pushing it down as you go, so the coils touch). Once you've done enough of a length, a drop of superglue at each end will secure the lead wire in place; you can then bend the inner brass core into whatever shape you want, and it will keep that shape. I guess you could use the thicker lead wire as the core also, but that would be much more flexy and possibly prone to damage. Great for making brake hoses and anything similar that needs a ridged-look flexible pipe. With very thin brass wire and the thinnest lead wire you can make very fine hoses, while the thicker stuff is plenty big enough for G scale brake lines.

Jon.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

Gizzy said:
Woderwick said:
For a hose I mean

Get an old E string from a bass guitar? Even thicker....

Yep, I save old electric bass strings for just such a purpose.
 
Re:Europeanizing a Lilliput Diesel Lok V3

ntpntpntp said:
Gizzy said:
Woderwick said:
For a hose I mean

Get an old E string from a bass guitar? Even thicker....

Yep, I save old electric bass strings for just such a purpose.


Good tip, I've got an old set of strings off my bass somewhere :thumbup:.


And thanks for the inspiration James. I've just converted my Davenport to run with my battery remote control wagon. Took about half an hour and cost 75p :bigsmile:.
 
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