First Scratch Build

[Monk_1987]

Repeating myself - brilliant!!! Q? Do you make your own windows and doors? Or buy them in?

Thank you Chris. Appreciate it I don't make my own windows. As I have never done anything like this before I was not confident with scale etc. So I found a company called 4D modelling which were cheap enough for the doors and windows. I was forced into making the opening on the left side building. It will become a ticket office but there was no window big enough!

 

[Monk_1987]

Done some more today.  Painted the corner stones, doors and windows and the window sills.  A few more obvious bits to touch up. I also want to paint the trim around the roof in white.  The one other major details I want to add is guttering and drain pipes......  Does anybody have any ideas or another blog to help me with this?

 

[liam0404]

If this is your first build then fair play sir, you have done amazingly well!

Puts anything I could ever try to shame :'(

 

[cbeckett]

I use drinking straws - from macdonalds - for downpipes!

 

[gregh]

The 6mm x 6mm brass channel you used for the bricks, will be perfect for guttering. Or you can buy styrene channel.  For downpipes try straws (as by chris) or thick insulated wire as used for 240V.  Here`s one of mine

 

[trammayo]

Ye it is all made up from UPVC plastic board. I got it from http://www.signforce.co.uk/Signforce/Forex_Classic.html It is the stuff they use on outdoor signs and I have been assured it is good to use outdoors.

The main structure is made out of 6mm board. The roof and window sills etc is made out of 3 mm board and the roof tiles and corner stones are all made out of 1mm board! Then the join on the top of the roof is a 10mm plastic pipe cut in half.

The glue I used is Evo Stik outdoor plastic glue... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p58347?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=0HBUko2B&pcrid=46334903183&gclid=CIiv74iggsQCFRHHtAodLykA9w
No problem with the questions... Without sounding cheesy, this forum has helped me no end with hints tips and ideas so it is the least I can do!

Many thanks for the links - I've Bookmarked them as a memory aid! I was in B&Q yesterday (saw the brass channel you purchased) but I was after some stripwood and plastic angle.

 

[jeremy.viewing]

Hi brilliant piece of work, can I ask are you using these windows and doors? Jeremy

http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Model-Detail/1-24-Scale/Doors-Windows/

 

[Monk_1987]

Hi brilliant piece of work, can I ask are you using these windows and doors? Jeremy

http://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Model-Detail/1-24-Scale/Doors-Windows/

Hi Jeremy

Yup those are the ones. Don't make the same mistake as I made ordering the internal doors as they are not suitable (I know this might sound obvious but I wanted 2 styles of doors to give it a bit more interest). If I was to do this again I would cut 2 of the top panels out of one of the doors and put some see through plastic behind it.

 

[Monk_1987]

I use drinking straws - from macdonalds - for downpipes!

Great idea Chris. Never thought of it at all. I popped to McDonalds earlier and picked some up. Once I attach them to the building (not sure how) I will post the results.

 

[Monk_1987]

The 6mm x 6mm brass channel you used for the bricks, will be perfect for guttering. Or you can buy styrene channel. For downpipes try straws (as by chris) or thick insulated wire as used for 240V. Here's one of mine
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Thanks for the ideas! How did you glue it on? Do you find the rain goes into the gutter and makes it too heavy? That is my concern for the straw method (with the guttering). I hope that makes sense!

 

[jeremy.viewing]

Thanks for the reply, I have been inspired to have a go myself, my railway needs a country halt and an engine shed. Many thanks for your thread. Jeremy

 

[PhilP]

Er.. Gutter too heavy??
Why not make a hole in it to let the rain out? I would suggest just above the top of a drinking straw downpipe!!

A 'freezer twist-tie' round the straw, with a twist, and then glued into a hole in the 'brickwork' makes a passable fixing for the downpipe.

 

[cbeckett]

Personally, I find very little water ever gets into the gutter, and if it does, it just spills open - my downpipes are decorative. Bear in mind it hasn't rained here (WA) for four months now, not an issue....

 

[viaEstrecha]

I used a set square to scribe a nice straight line, then I would use the left side of the rod in the indent and push down hard on the right side creating the second line. Once I created the original line with the set square it was pretty easy from there on in as each new line became the new guide if that makes sense? I then used a flat head screwdriver to create the vertical line.

Just curious - I've used Forex Classic for many years and tend to scribe with a bradawl, which is slow and painful, and so I like the brass rod approach. Nowadays for larger areas of random stone, for example, I do increasingly resort to a Dremmel. However, I find that Forex is so flipping tough, I can barely make a dent if I simply try to press a metallic edge against it - so my question is how hard is 'pushing down hard' and do you have a particular technique to get force on to the rod to make it consistent in depth of indentation? Maybe I am just getting feeble in my dotage

 

[Monk_1987]

Just curious - I've used Forex Classic for many years and tend to scribe with a bradawl, which is slow and painful, and so I like the brass rod approach. Nowadays for larger areas of random stone, for example, I do increasingly resort to a Dremmel. However, I find that Forex is so flipping tough, I can barely make a dent if I simply try to press a metallic edge against it - so my question is how hard is 'pushing down hard' and do you have a particular technique to get force on to the rod to make it consistent in depth of indentation? Maybe I am just getting feeble in my dotage

To be perfectly honest I pushed down pretty hard to get a decent depth. I found that my hand did hurt after a while and so I done it in stages. I didn't take much notice regarding the depth of the 'concrete' as 'real life' brick work has some inconsistent cementing.

 

[Monk_1987]

Hi again everyone

Here are the updated pictures.  I have added guttering with McDonalds straws and then added the sign for the station.  I have also touched up some of the paint work too.  Sorry about the pictures, they are slightly fuzzy for some reason.

One last question.... What do people do for posters?  I want to put some on just to help it along a bit!

I can`t put pictures of it outside yet at the station because I have not started building it yet, however when I do I will keep you updated.

Thanks for all the support!

 

[viaEstrecha]

One last question.... What do people do for posters? I want to put some on just to help it along a bit!

There are sheets available commercially, which claim to be outdoor safe, but that's boring! You could do a Google Image search for 'miniature posters', download any that are right for your location and period, then print to your preferred size on label paper. Attach to plasticard before mounting on the building - I usually add a tiny frame at that stage, using profile. A few coats of matt varnish should provide a couple of years protection, or you could cover with a thin layer of clear acrylic or PVC sheet. Alternatively you can print on plain paper and laminate. For more specialised posters, you just need to be a bit more inventive with the searches (and it definitely helps if you aren't modelling a foreign country and aren't much use at speaking its language!).

These are actually inside my station ticket office and are printed in reverse, as they are visible in a mirror when you look through the windows and it appears twice as big as it actually is! The floor and wall tiles were made the same way.