Fitting an on/off switch to old analogue LGB locos

B

BrianC

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I have still not got around to wiring up my control panel which provides for isolated sections and sidings, so I would like to fit all my old LGB locos with an on/off slider switch so that I don't have to keep removing them in order to run another. I found a couple of likely looking miniature and sub-miniature switches in Maplins yesterday but am unsure as to whether their electrical specs would be suitable. Can anyone advise which would be OK or suggest another source?
 
As long as they are rated for at least 30 Volts and 5 Amps, they will fine Brian....
 
Anything rated at a couple of Amps, or more, will be suitable.. You will not be switching under any appreciable load.
Depending if the stock has lights, and if you would like them to sit with the lights on, depends where you fit the switch in the wiring.
 
From memory I think their slide switches don't have a high enough rating.
With respect to Gizzy I feel that a 3A rating will be plenty if just switching off a single motor loco.
 
Neil Robinson said:
From memory I think their slide switches don't have a high enough rating.
With respect to Gizzy I feel that a 3A rating will be plenty if just switching off a single motor loco.
Click to expand...
Agreed Neil, but just going for a catch all, belts and braces solution, covering everything.... ;)
 
Just had a quick look at their (horrible!) website, and I agree with Neil..
A discretely placed toggle-switch may well give you more options, with a better current rating.
 
Yep, I came to the same conclusion: the slide switches are only rated for .3A, whereas even a sub-min toggle is rated for 3A.
 
Sub miniature toggle switches would be you best bet, IMO. Toggle switches are a simpler installation as you only need to drill the appropriate sized hole to fit the switch into place. With a slide switch, you usually need to make an elongated hole. Then you have to fasten the end tabs with small screws to the loco body.
 
Madman said:
...Toggle switches are a simpler installation as you only need to drill the appropriate sized hole to fit the switch into place...
Click to expand...
Yep, was going to say the same thing - a round hole is much easier to create than a rectangular one! Or if you want to be less destructive, simply epoxy the side of the toggle switch body to the loco bodywork (under the chassis frame, just inside the cab door or wherever suits you and the loco best)
 
Many thanks for the replies so far guys. They seem to confirm my concerns over the switches I saw yesterday. Regarding the sub-miniature toggles, I have some surplus Gaugemaster GM506 DPDT Mini-Toggle Switches which remain from the batch I have used for switching power on the isolated sections (or at least when I connect up the aforementioned control panel). Assuming these are up to the job (I really am an electrical numpty), I am thinking these should also be OK fitted in the locos? If so, then maybe they could also allow the lights to be powered on (or off) when the motor is off?
(Questions, questions, questions...will this idiot never go away?)
 
To switch everything off:
Put the switch in one of the wires from the track to the circuit board. - White or Brown.
To just switch the motor off:
Put the switch in one of the wires to the motor. - Yellow or Green.
 
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