Flex Track

They are all like that, but you have to get the angle to see, and I am again stating this is the sectional track, not the flex track, which seems to be OK.

If you pull the screws from the sectional track, you can be in deep kimchee...

It actually makes sense from a manufacturing aspect... it's a lot more work to drill holes in the rail and screw in screws, and nothing Aristo did was without a reason. The loose fitting "spikes" allow easier insertion of the rail, but most importantly, no longer rely on the ties to set the gauge, so the same tie strips can be used for ANY curvature.

Also, as you probably know, shrinkage of plastic from injection molding is highly dependent on the time it is allowed to cool in the mold. No longer relying on the tie strips for gauge allows more "slop" in the production process.

Great for them, but not the best for us if we want to change the curvature of the sectional track, since you must remove at least some of the screws.

Greg
 
Ah, all now becomes a lot clearer..

Do any of you know if the same screws, as used for the fishplates, are used to hold the track to the 'ties'?
 
Ah, all now becomes a lot clearer..

Do any of you know if the same screws, as used for the fishplates, are used to hold the track to the 'ties'?
Yes, and the answer's no :shake::shake::shake:

Yes, yes, yes - oh no!
 
While on the subject, I wondered if anybody knew the drill size and tap for the Aristo fishplate screws - I may wish to join some of my newly acquired (peviously enjoyed) LGB track to the existing Aristo using the Aristo fishplates. I also have some Hillmans clamps, but the Aristo profile is slightly different to the LGB rail profile, and the difference is on the bottom flange
 
1.8mm drill
2mm tap
From memory..

A ball-ended hex-driver in a plastic handle is good too..

Do you need many of the fishplate screw/bolts?
 
1.8mm drill
2mm tap
From memory..

A ball-ended hex-driver in a plastic handle is good too..

Do you need many of the fishplate screw/bolts?
I was hoping to make do with what I've got - I was tempted to drill and tap the LGB rail where it meets the Aristo profile just to match the Aristot fishplate. Why, have you got some Aristo fishplates?

I picked up one of those hex drivers from Terry when I bought the track and Hillmans - never used one, have previously used Accucraft clamps and an allen key/socket jobby in a mini ratchet
 
Believe it or not, I would recommend using the LGB joiner to the Aristo track.

I forgot, are you battery or track power. For track power, the Aristo joiners are pretty bad. I know, I've thrown enough of them away.

Greg

p.s. the threads on the screws to hold the rail in place are the same as the fishplate ones, the screws holding the track in place are philips head with sort of an integral washer, making the head larger, the fishplate screws are hex head socket cap screws.
 
No joiners. - I need to source quite a few..
But I have 1000 of the cap-head screws..
 
I have got away with a 1.5mm drill. Might be small compared to PhilPs post but it worked. Got a pack of ten from Screwfix for only a few bob.
 
I have got away with a 1.5mm drill. Might be small compared to PhilPs post but it worked. Got a pack of ten from Screwfix for only a few bob.

Depends how you 'ji ji ji jiggle it' Alan.

Brass is relatively soft, and our rail small in section, so anything close will do.
 
Believe it or not, I would recommend using the LGB joiner to the Aristo track.

I forgot, are you battery or track power. For track power, the Aristo joiners are pretty bad. I know, I've thrown enough of them away.

Greg

p.s. the threads on the screws to hold the rail in place are the same as the fishplate ones, the screws holding the track in place are philips head with sort of an integral washer, making the head larger, the fishplate screws are hex head socket cap screws.
Now here's the thing - or two.

The old WWSR was down for a few years, predominantly Aristo track, mainly at that time track power, and I only had to tighten a few fishplate screws a couple of times - perfick.

From memory, it's the LGB bottom flange that is slightly wider than the Aristo, so the LGB track will go into the Aristo fishplate with a good hard shove (and appropriate delicate finesse, of course) while you need to squeeze the LGB fishplate a little to get really good contact. This is a real b****r because the fishplate that's a tight fit has the screw hole, while the one that's a bit loose doesn't :tmi::tmi:

I might have a chat with my friend PhilP :call::call: about some of those screws, but 1,000 !! :worried::worried:
 
On the Ruschbahn which lasted for 8 years we had loads of Aristo Track, all in the Hidden Section of the Railway and easily accesible. Andy used LGB Glug on all joints even where he could not use the Aristo Screws on Cuts at Curves. Most joints worked just fine, but as reliability broke down on odd Joints we replaced the Aristo Joiners with Track Clamps. Both Hillman and Massoth.
JonD
 
So, I have ordered a tap.....................and a pack of 10 drills :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 
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