Flexible Track

maxi-model said:
Was composing my previous post as you were posting yours Jon.That looks like the answer then. Somebody should tell them that they need to put that versatile feature upfront on their main description. How many sales may be lost as potential buyers will bypass it without giving a second glance. Max
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Quite right Max, have updated my post a little more to give varying links for the GRS and older Massoth Benders. Between us I think we should have covered most of the Angles or should I say Corners! But no doubt there will be another product out there somewhere.
 
I didn't realise there was so many different railbenders out there, I'll have to have a good look at what's available, I'll also need to try and confirm my rail's gauge, there's nothing written on it anywhere
 
Paul M said:
I didn't realise there was so many different railbenders out there, I'll have to have a good look at what's available, I'll also need to try and confirm my rail's gauge, there's nothing written on it anywhere
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Yes looking at your original post you say Peco 45mm Track, could be the G or the Gauge 1 stuff. If you can post a picture for us and it will become apparent. If you got it by the Box it will state the type on it.

G is Code 250 Gauge 1 is Code 200.

Gauge is the width between each of the Rails (on yours 45mm I presume) important to try to learn the terminology where you can.
 
Paul M said:
I didn't realise there was so many different railbenders out there, I'll have to have a good look at what's available, I'll also need to try and confirm my rail's gauge, there's nothing written on it anywhere
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Well, your rail gauge seems to be established, 45 mm. It's the "code", aka rail height, you want to confirm. Quick guide, depending if you are using a ruler/digital caliper - Code 250 = 1/4"/.25", Code 200 = 1/5th"/.2". Just in case Code 332 (332 thousands of an inch), you guessed it 1/3rd"/.33".

Pretty straightforward and easily checked. Now sit back and enjoy browsing for a rail bender. Max

P.S. Jon, I'm not stalking you. Honest :)
 
dunnyrail said:
Yes looking at your original post you say Peco 45mm Track, could be the G or the Gauge 1 stuff. If you can post a picture for us and it will become apparent. If you got it by the Box it will state the type on it.

G is Code 250 Gauge 1 is Code 200.

Gauge is the width between each of the Rails (on yours 45mm I presume) important to try to learn the terminology where you can.
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Yes, sorry, a slip of the key pad there, I was thinking of metal thickness/height gauge
 
maxi-model said:
Well, your rail gauge seems to be established, 45 mm. It's the "code", aka rail height, you want to confirm. Quick guide, depending if you are using a ruler/digital caliper - Code 250 = 1/4"/.25", Code 200 = 1/5th"/.2". Just in case Code 332 (332 thousands of an inch), you guessed it 1/3rd"/.33".

Pretty straightforward and easily checked. Now sit back and enjoy browsing for a rail bender. Max

P.S. Jon, I'm not stalking you. Honest :)
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Cheers, I'll have a quick measure up, but methinks I have the smaller code,, fortunately most of my stock seems to roll on it OK, it's just got more sleepers/ties than it should have!
 
Paul M said:
Cheers, I'll have a quick measure up, but methinks I have the smaller code,, fortunately most of my stock seems to roll on it OK, it's just got more sleepers/ties than it should have!
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Do you have a photo of the track Paul....
 
IMG_20180214_181242.jpg IMG_20180214_181343.jpg
Here's some pictures of the offending track! Bit of a learning curve in more ways than one! Never posted pictures before
 
Gizzy said:
I think, but I'm not sure, if it might be Tenmille....
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Blimey it obviously worked! It is actually Peco Streamline, taking a quick measure, it's less than 1/4" more like 3/16 so going by what Max said, it's probably Gauge 1 as opposed to G. As I said most of my stock seems to roll on it without catching anything so hopefully all will be well.
 
Gizzy said:
I think, but I'm not sure, if it might be Tenmille....
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I think you might be right Gizzy - Both Tenmille and Peco make bullhead section rail for G1 and both produce in nickle silver finish. However, only Tenmille seem to make a brass bullhead G1 rail and what we seem to be looking at is brass. Curious. Have we got a G1 expert on here ? Help !

While your current stock may manage near enough on a straight or curve the next question is - will the majority of "G" and 16 mm product work ok with the more restricted check rails and flange ways used on G1 track systems, like points ? Not trying to give you more sleepless nights Paul. We need the advise of someone who has done this. Max
 
maxi-model said:
I think you might be right Gizzy - Both Tenmille and Peco make bullhead section rail for G1 and both produce in nickle silver finish. However, only Tenmille seem to make a brass bullhead G1 rail and what we seem to be looking at is brass. Curious. Have we got a G1 expert on here ? Help !

While your current stock may manage near enough on a straight or curve the next question is - will the majority of "G" and 16 mm product work ok with the more restricted check rails and flange ways used on G1 track systems, like points ? Not trying to give you more sleepless nights Paul. We need the advise of someone who has done this. Max
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Oh God, I hadn't even started thinking about points. I may use the track I have for the main running bits & a different code for the stations if I can successfully join them
 
Here's an idea - Peco SM32 (32 mm gauge) track system, a commonly used system for 16 mm scale loco and stock, is code 200. It should follow then that all makes of locos and rolling stock made specifically for the 16 mm scale market have wheels with flange profiles made with this in mind. As most of this product is dual gauge 32/45 mm and readily re-gaugable then it should work with your 45 mm G1 code 200 stuff. However the product that is manufactured with code 332 and 250 in mind I cannot say.

Is it an option for you to sell off your "Peco" track and start afresh ? Max
 
maxi-model said:
Here's an idea - Peco SM32 (32 mm gauge) track system, a commonly used system for 16 mm scale loco and stock, is code 200. It should follow then that all makes of locos and rolling stock made specifically for the 16 mm scale market have wheels with flange profiles made with this in mind. As most of this product is dual gauge 32/45 mm and readily re-gaugable then it should work with your 45 mm G1 code 200 stuff. However the product that is manufactured with code 332 and 250 in mind I cannot say.

Is it an option for you to sell off your "Peco" track and start afresh ? Max
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Thanks for the replies. As you say most 16mm stuff is gauge adjustable, although my Accucraft Lyn had to have it's wheel flanges turned down to run on 45 or 32mm. Swopping may be an option, but we'll have to see!
 
Paul M said:
Blimey it obviously worked! It is actually Peco Streamline, taking a quick measure, it's less than 1/4" more like 3/16 so going by what Max said, it's probably Gauge 1 as opposed to G. As I said most of my stock seems to roll on it without catching anything so hopefully all will be well.
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Peco do do Gauge 1 atrack so this is it by the looks of things, they do do points and I think that you would be advised to keep to the same stuff. Points are not cheep but Peco do make parts to construct your own though how they would fare in the great outdoors is another question. Link to the varying range, the Peco Site appeared to be a bit off tiday when I looked. Other makes of similar Rail Section could also be used quite happily 10mm, Fleishmann etc if you come across any.

Regarding wheel section, some older LGB products will bump on the chairs due to deeper Foanges on the Wheels. Something to keep in mind when purchasing goodies.

My friend uses various types of Gauge 1 Track as it matches his Swiss Metre Gauge Main Line like requirements quite well. Though having helped him lift his old line before his recent move I have to say that his use of horrible inapropriate dimple headed nails (just banged in a hurry through the sleepers) for Track fixing did not do this track any help at all. It is nothing like as robust as the Peco G or LGB Etc types. Quite a bit of damage ensued even with very careful lifting methods. Now if only he had pre drilled small holes and used small Flat Heade Nails to fix his track all would have been fine!

Suggest that you cut off a short length of rail to use as a matching pattern when out and about looking for more Track.

https://www.track-shack.com/acatalog/Peco-Gauge-1-Track.html
 
maxi-model said:
I think you might be right Gizzy - Both Tenmille and Peco make bullhead section rail for G1 and both produce in nickle silver finish. However, only Tenmille seem to make a brass bullhead G1 rail and what we seem to be looking at is brass. Curious. Have we got a G1 expert on here ? Help !

Max
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Tenmille are just up the road from where I work, and they do points too!

Website is here:

http://www.tenmille.com/Gauge1-home.html

If needs must, I can pop over and see them. I ordered a bespoke Y point from them some years ago, so they might remember me from then.

Let me know if I can help....
 
Thanks for all the help everyone! I'm feeling a bit happier with my track now, it was a bargain of sorts which couldn't be missed at the time. Good tip about taking a short length when looking for new track and points. Not too sure whether I'd be up to making my own but it would be cheaper!
 
Trainli sells their bender in code 332 or 250 versions and has kits to convert to the other code. Not cheap but very useful/handy and will bend track in place on the layout. The code 250 may work on code 215 also but I have never tried this.
 
Interesting thread.

When I laid my track 12 years ago, I got a few lengths of LGB flexitrack from GRS and asked about the need for a rail bender. They told me not to bother unless I was going to have very tight curves. I laid all my code 332 track (a mix of LGB, Aristo and Tenmille) track without using a rail bender. I experienced no major problems, though I screwed the track down to concrete block foundations to stop it wandering. The only issues I had were where I had to have rail joints on two of my curves. In one case, inserted a new length of track to avoid having the joint on a curve (see https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2008/08/progress-report-15-beeston-castle-is.html - about half way down) and with the other I tweaked the two offending ends of both pieces of track with a jim crow made by a fellow forumite ( see https://riksrailway.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/how-i-ironed-out-some-kinks-in-my-track.html ).

You can invest in a rail bender if you wish, but as the chap at GRS told me, you could buy another couple of lengths of track instead.

Rik
 
Ahh Rik! I was looking for a picture of that rail bender/Jim Crow, wot I made, I'd forgotten who I'd made one for ('t were a long while ago). As it happens I think I still have a spare one kicking around somewhere, Paul. They suit all rail sections.
 
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