Freight Depot & other buildings
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Thanks Nico!
This last few days, I've been concentrating on building "replacement" cottages. The originals were quite heavy so the new ones are the opposite as they are built from foam board. The first (although the walls for all three were cut at the same time) was the unrendered (or plastered as they say here) stone one to go with the granary.
Stonework was "inscribed" like the freight depot but the painting process (which failed really) was just an all-over coating of a buff colour to represent the mortar followed by the grey dabbed on with a sponge. I tried a dense, stiffish piece of sponge but to no avail. The indentations were not deep enough to escape the grey paint. So, as time is not on my side it stays as is. Roof is Minaco slate sheet - supposedly for 1/12th scale but quite accurate for G Scale in this instance as slates come in all sizes (I pass two old cottages when we go shopping and they look just the same on the roof).
Minaco 1/2 round ridge tiles were used and glued on with gutter sealant, down pipe and gutter (only on the side you see at the moment) were dowelling cut to suit).
Windows are printed out and laminated (no transparency - just shaded "fill"), then painted strip wood glued on for glazing bars and frames. The doors are the cut-outs scribed and painted with pieces of chamfered strip wood (the "grooves" cut from Vee grooved boards) glued on for the frames. The doors need furniture and will get it (like the granary door pictured).
This cottage is now glued to the baseboard using the same sealant. Whilst the cottage as stayed in place, the granary building slid off with heat of the day. I used some balsa blocks to increase the contact area and this seems to have solved that little problem (hopefully)
Thanks Nico!
This last few days, I've been concentrating on building "replacement" cottages. The originals were quite heavy so the new ones are the opposite as they are built from foam board. The first (although the walls for all three were cut at the same time) was the unrendered (or plastered as they say here) stone one to go with the granary.
Stonework was "inscribed" like the freight depot but the painting process (which failed really) was just an all-over coating of a buff colour to represent the mortar followed by the grey dabbed on with a sponge. I tried a dense, stiffish piece of sponge but to no avail. The indentations were not deep enough to escape the grey paint. So, as time is not on my side it stays as is. Roof is Minaco slate sheet - supposedly for 1/12th scale but quite accurate for G Scale in this instance as slates come in all sizes (I pass two old cottages when we go shopping and they look just the same on the roof).
Minaco 1/2 round ridge tiles were used and glued on with gutter sealant, down pipe and gutter (only on the side you see at the moment) were dowelling cut to suit).
Windows are printed out and laminated (no transparency - just shaded "fill"), then painted strip wood glued on for glazing bars and frames. The doors are the cut-outs scribed and painted with pieces of chamfered strip wood (the "grooves" cut from Vee grooved boards) glued on for the frames. The doors need furniture and will get it (like the granary door pictured).
This cottage is now glued to the baseboard using the same sealant. Whilst the cottage as stayed in place, the granary building slid off with heat of the day. I used some balsa blocks to increase the contact area and this seems to have solved that little problem (hopefully)
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
The other two original cottages represented "white-washed" dwellings. All three were "thatched" - a mixture of plater & PVA. Having done the stone one as re-roofed in slate, I thought I'd do a thatched one (of this, more later) and a "tin" roof one that would have replaced the thatch.
Because I'm using lightweight materials, my baked beans tin method wouldn't work as the prehensile nature of the (once) rolled up metal meant I couldn't make it lay flat. Normally this isn't a problem because I nail it in place but in this instance I had to abandon the idea conpletely. The cost of importing plastic corrugated was too much so I turned to the roof tile (Minaco) sheets I'd used on the Crossing Keeper's cottage.
The sheets are stuck on with double-sided carpet tape as usual but the Minaco ridge tiles are too small to cap the ridge. In the end I had to use plastic angle strip, scored and painted, to make the ridge.
The walls are "pebble-dashed" using dried sand (left over from paving the drive) and then painted using white universal primer. The finish is as hard as nails!
Gutters and down pipes were as the slated roof cottage. I used a coloured marker pen to paint these and the bargeboards. Since these photos were taken, the porch has been painted and gaps and pin holes filled and painted over - now ready for the trailer!
The other two original cottages represented "white-washed" dwellings. All three were "thatched" - a mixture of plater & PVA. Having done the stone one as re-roofed in slate, I thought I'd do a thatched one (of this, more later) and a "tin" roof one that would have replaced the thatch.
Because I'm using lightweight materials, my baked beans tin method wouldn't work as the prehensile nature of the (once) rolled up metal meant I couldn't make it lay flat. Normally this isn't a problem because I nail it in place but in this instance I had to abandon the idea conpletely. The cost of importing plastic corrugated was too much so I turned to the roof tile (Minaco) sheets I'd used on the Crossing Keeper's cottage.
The sheets are stuck on with double-sided carpet tape as usual but the Minaco ridge tiles are too small to cap the ridge. In the end I had to use plastic angle strip, scored and painted, to make the ridge.
The walls are "pebble-dashed" using dried sand (left over from paving the drive) and then painted using white universal primer. The finish is as hard as nails!
Gutters and down pipes were as the slated roof cottage. I used a coloured marker pen to paint these and the bargeboards. Since these photos were taken, the porch has been painted and gaps and pin holes filled and painted over - now ready for the trailer!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
And so to thatching! My plaster effect rooves were just that - effect. This time I thought I try and do something better and, anyway, the plaster gets damaged during handling and stowage.
I looked at my knot of hemp but decided it was a little too soft for what I wanted. I rembered I had a big ball of sisal twine so I went searching for it. I cut a short piece off and untwisted it and felt that this might be the ideal material.
I made a couple of samples - one in uncoloured state and the other washed in poster paint - then showed it to SWMBO.
After getting the seal of approval, I set to with the double-sided tape, a pair of scissors and a lot of patience for what turned out to be a rather tedious task. The pics show the "raw" sisal on the roof.
The ridge is stitched down (criss-cross fashion) because the bamboo slithers snapped as I tried to bend them into staples. Of course the colour wasn't right (too bright and shiny) so I applied a coat of brown and black (mixed) poster paint with added PVA glue as a wash. Although it coloured the thatch, I could see the bare patches of tape underneath so I gave it a coath of oil based paint by flooding it and this also meant that the roof side had to be kept on a level plane to allow the paint to soak in. This took a couple of hours for each side.
The result is a well weathered roof that needs a re-thatch!
And so to thatching! My plaster effect rooves were just that - effect. This time I thought I try and do something better and, anyway, the plaster gets damaged during handling and stowage.
I looked at my knot of hemp but decided it was a little too soft for what I wanted. I rembered I had a big ball of sisal twine so I went searching for it. I cut a short piece off and untwisted it and felt that this might be the ideal material.
I made a couple of samples - one in uncoloured state and the other washed in poster paint - then showed it to SWMBO.
After getting the seal of approval, I set to with the double-sided tape, a pair of scissors and a lot of patience for what turned out to be a rather tedious task. The pics show the "raw" sisal on the roof.
The ridge is stitched down (criss-cross fashion) because the bamboo slithers snapped as I tried to bend them into staples. Of course the colour wasn't right (too bright and shiny) so I applied a coat of brown and black (mixed) poster paint with added PVA glue as a wash. Although it coloured the thatch, I could see the bare patches of tape underneath so I gave it a coath of oil based paint by flooding it and this also meant that the roof side had to be kept on a level plane to allow the paint to soak in. This took a couple of hours for each side.
The result is a well weathered roof that needs a re-thatch!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
and the front of the house. The chimney stacks are made watertight against the thatch by haunching up a bed of mortar around their bases - represented in this instance by white acrylic mastic.
Now I need to further "landscape" the baseboard as the original cottage had its own base and there is bare untreated patch for the new one.
and the front of the house. The chimney stacks are made watertight against the thatch by haunching up a bed of mortar around their bases - represented in this instance by white acrylic mastic.
Now I need to further "landscape" the baseboard as the original cottage had its own base and there is bare untreated patch for the new one.
steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
Re:My new Freight Depot
WOW SOUND u got steady hands for this jobs mate..wow, LOVES IT.loves tht cottage.nice!
hw are u mate?
WOW SOUND u got steady hands for this jobs mate..wow, LOVES IT.loves tht cottage.nice!
hw are u mate?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Hi Steven - got over your flu yet? I'm not too bad - considering there are plenty in the graveyard wishing they were as good
Being active keeps me going - plus I wanted to get as much done ready for this Sunday (1st time out with railway - early this year - normally don't bother until July!)
Hi Steven - got over your flu yet? I'm not too bad - considering there are plenty in the graveyard wishing they were as good
Being active keeps me going - plus I wanted to get as much done ready for this Sunday (1st time out with railway - early this year - normally don't bother until July!)
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Thanks Nico & Alan! Its not quite what I wanted to achieve but, as usual, I'm the architect of my own problems. Once I use the oil based paint it clumped together and I couldn't comb it straight when dry Its a bit like my me - thin on top.
Thanks Nico & Alan! Its not quite what I wanted to achieve but, as usual, I'm the architect of my own problems. Once I use the oil based paint it clumped together and I couldn't comb it straight when dry
Its a bit like my me - thin on top.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
So, what next? Well, Mik's posting on his new Sawmill prompted me to look at the rather basic shed I made in 2007. Made from pallet wood and bean tins it is quite a solid lump and shed-like in shape.
Below; The sawmill complex in-situ on the Trailer's first outing, July 2008.
I had always intended doing something else to enhance it - maybe a band saw or circular saw. I had a ERTL (1/12th scale?) oil engine which I had seperated from its wheeled undercarriage and these two pieces - together with "stacks" of timber - were as far as I got.
Seeing Mik's circular saw got me wondering about my sawmill. If I built a saw and motorised it, maybe I could couple it to the engine. To add nother dimension to the shed, I would build a full-length side canopy to accommodate things so I started to pull the shed side apart...
The planks, approximately 2mm thick and creosoted, were nailed (using a nail gun) to 15mm square timbers so were quite secure. They had to be prised off and the nails extracted - it took some doing as the frame (if you can call it that) was oak.
So once I had an opensided shed, I tidied up the ends by adding an extra (balsa) timber at each corner and glueing short sectiion of planking back on. A piece of timber was glued on as a support for the canopy roof (might screw it to the original uprights before nailing on the corrugated!) and that was the first stage of the shed.
So, what next? Well, Mik's posting on his new Sawmill prompted me to look at the rather basic shed I made in 2007. Made from pallet wood and bean tins it is quite a solid lump and shed-like in shape.
Below; The sawmill complex in-situ on the Trailer's first outing, July 2008.
I had always intended doing something else to enhance it - maybe a band saw or circular saw. I had a ERTL (1/12th scale?) oil engine which I had seperated from its wheeled undercarriage and these two pieces - together with "stacks" of timber - were as far as I got.
Seeing Mik's circular saw got me wondering about my sawmill. If I built a saw and motorised it, maybe I could couple it to the engine. To add nother dimension to the shed, I would build a full-length side canopy to accommodate things so I started to pull the shed side apart...
The planks, approximately 2mm thick and creosoted, were nailed (using a nail gun) to 15mm square timbers so were quite secure. They had to be prised off and the nails extracted - it took some doing as the frame (if you can call it that) was oak.
So once I had an opensided shed, I tidied up the ends by adding an extra (balsa) timber at each corner and glueing short sectiion of planking back on. A piece of timber was glued on as a support for the canopy roof (might screw it to the original uprights before nailing on the corrugated!) and that was the first stage of the shed.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Next I had a look at the "engine". I had thoughts of fitting brass bearings to the main axis but attempts to pull the flywheels off persuaded me to leave it alone for now. Oiling and intermittent operation were bywords fo the moment. Looking at the idea of a motorised saw bench, I needed to have the saw turning at what appears to be realistic speed whilst the engine also appears to run at a realistic speed. I have several MFA motors - three with gearboxes and one from the railbus without any gearing - at different voltages.
I decided to use a 1 - 30 ratio running at 3V. The 15 volt one off the railbus would have meant making a speed controller and I wasn't into that!
Using scraps of wood I made the basic "guts" of the bench. Using a mixture of modern meccano bits I contrived the saw spindle, using bevel gears (Maplins) for the drive transfer.
Bearings are scratch-built from an old tower bolt and some nylon rod drilled to accept the spindle. Pulley for the belt to the motor is just a piece of dowel tightly pushed on the 4mm spindle.
The profile of the aluminium makes the bearings look like plummer blocks.
'' and, at the end of the day, I still had a tower bolt!
The crude saw blade is made from the base of a Pringle container. I have seen some miniature cast steel blades for sale so I might change it when I can spare some more pennies!
I need to case this all in and fit the saw table. I used a rubber band as a drive belt to try it all out and it appears to work. As with all flat belt drives, alignment is crucial as the belt will walk off the pulleys! Clearly the saw and the engine will share a common base.
Hope to get some more work done today.
Next I had a look at the "engine". I had thoughts of fitting brass bearings to the main axis but attempts to pull the flywheels off persuaded me to leave it alone for now. Oiling and intermittent operation were bywords fo the moment. Looking at the idea of a motorised saw bench, I needed to have the saw turning at what appears to be realistic speed whilst the engine also appears to run at a realistic speed. I have several MFA motors - three with gearboxes and one from the railbus without any gearing - at different voltages.
I decided to use a 1 - 30 ratio running at 3V. The 15 volt one off the railbus would have meant making a speed controller and I wasn't into that!
Using scraps of wood I made the basic "guts" of the bench. Using a mixture of modern meccano bits I contrived the saw spindle, using bevel gears (Maplins) for the drive transfer.
Bearings are scratch-built from an old tower bolt and some nylon rod drilled to accept the spindle. Pulley for the belt to the motor is just a piece of dowel tightly pushed on the 4mm spindle.
The profile of the aluminium makes the bearings look like plummer blocks.
'' and, at the end of the day, I still had a tower bolt!
The crude saw blade is made from the base of a Pringle container. I have seen some miniature cast steel blades for sale so I might change it when I can spare some more pennies!
I need to case this all in and fit the saw table. I used a rubber band as a drive belt to try it all out and it appears to work. As with all flat belt drives, alignment is crucial as the belt will walk off the pulleys! Clearly the saw and the engine will share a common base.
Hope to get some more work done today.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Hi Ross - yes you can recess the pulley. I wanted to make a "canvass" belt but might end up with broad rubber bands. I had intended to make a dummy "fast & loose" arrangement (things I'm familiar with). Pulleys come in various shapes - from the usual flat, to flanged and and convex.
As the saying goes, "the road to Hell is paved with good intentions" - I'll probably skimp on things as I need it all working and complete pretty soon. Nowadays, I have all the time in the world but that still isn't enough!
Hi Ross - yes you can recess the pulley. I wanted to make a "canvass" belt but might end up with broad rubber bands. I had intended to make a dummy "fast & loose" arrangement (things I'm familiar with). Pulleys come in various shapes - from the usual flat, to flanged and and convex.
As the saying goes, "the road to Hell is paved with good intentions" - I'll probably skimp on things as I need it all working and complete pretty soon. Nowadays, I have all the time in the world but that still isn't enough!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:My new Freight Depot
Its been a frustrating few days - visitors nearly every day - not been able to get on at all.
I enclosed the saw bench workings, then found it was too big (in proportion to the building) so hacked it about to reduce the length. I tried various things for the belt drive but, in the end, settled for a ribbon which had come from a rally medal/plaque (the Red & Green of County Mayo).
I had to to extend the base to acconnodate the engine so this side strip is secured by the engine itself, a log at the back of the engine, and a stack of timber at the other end.
With mounting frustration at my lack of progress, I screwed or glued everything in place and then glued sawdust all over and simulated gunge around the engine. My theory is that the old oil could well be a fire hazard and the mill will need rebuilding next winter!
Once I can get the trailer back in the yard (weather the usual liquid variety at the moment) I will wire the base board with a link to the trailer and the battery box will then be out of sight.
The roof of the extension is finished, and I have a few odd bits to make to decorate the scene and that will be it for now.. Here's the last of the pics;-
At least I can now plonk it on the layout again!
Its been a frustrating few days - visitors nearly every day - not been able to get on at all.
I enclosed the saw bench workings, then found it was too big (in proportion to the building) so hacked it about to reduce the length. I tried various things for the belt drive but, in the end, settled for a ribbon which had come from a rally medal/plaque (the Red & Green of County Mayo).
I had to to extend the base to acconnodate the engine so this side strip is secured by the engine itself, a log at the back of the engine, and a stack of timber at the other end.
With mounting frustration at my lack of progress, I screwed or glued everything in place and then glued sawdust all over and simulated gunge around the engine. My theory is that the old oil could well be a fire hazard and the mill will need rebuilding next winter!
Once I can get the trailer back in the yard (weather the usual liquid variety at the moment) I will wire the base board with a link to the trailer and the battery box will then be out of sight.
The roof of the extension is finished, and I have a few odd bits to make to decorate the scene and that will be it for now.. Here's the last of the pics;-
At least I can now plonk it on the layout again!
steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
Re:My new Freight Depot
HOLY COW!!! awesome!! bet richie will loves it! wow..good one!
HOLY COW!!! awesome!! bet richie will loves it! wow..good one!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Re:Sawmill
Well, the timber left over from the sawmill alterations has been put to good use but I had to saw some more to complete the mini project - a timber shed. The idea was [strike]stolen[/strike] borrowed from Miks's sawmill.
On the layout last Sunday. My better half sits patiently knitting until I nead a bathroom break or whatever!
Well, the timber left over from the sawmill alterations has been put to good use but I had to saw some more to complete the mini project - a timber shed. The idea was [strike]stolen[/strike] borrowed from Miks's sawmill.
On the layout last Sunday. My better half sits patiently knitting until I nead a bathroom break or whatever!
playmofire
Registered
Re:Sawmill
Thank you, Mick, for the step by step progress in making your customs - it is both interesting and very useful.
Your attention to detail is outstanding (even sawdust in the sawmill!) and the finished products are superb. Clearly, judging by the architecture, your railway runs runs through an area of the USA with strong links to Ireland.
I was a bit puzzled by the, at first glance, apparently naked man standing in the wood shed, but a closer look showed he was wearing clothes!
Thank you, Mick, for the step by step progress in making your customs - it is both interesting and very useful.
Your attention to detail is outstanding (even sawdust in the sawmill!) and the finished products are superb. Clearly, judging by the architecture, your railway runs runs through an area of the USA with strong links to Ireland.
I was a bit puzzled by the, at first glance, apparently naked man standing in the wood shed, but a closer look showed he was wearing clothes!
Neil Robinson
Registered
Re:Sawmill
Cold Comfort Farm!playmofire said: