Garden gradient requirements

Double hooked here.
 
dunnyrail said:
I think that Beaver may be aluding to somewhat similar problems in Post #11, though he may of course be using other than LGB Standard Couplings.
JonD
Click to expand...

This is only from my experience on my line:

On my layout (with the incline) I tend to mostly have certain trains using the same coupling through out the rolling stock of that train (except for when I temporarily 'mix' cars around).
I do use some LGB hook and loop (double hooked of course) in one train, but due to their not confidently handling the forces and pressure on the downward slope on a longish train. I will gradually swap them out to be replaced with knuckles.

I mostly use either Bachmann or Aristocraft or Accucraft (on 1:20.3 scale) knuckles.
Out of all the knuckles around, the Aristocraft jobbies have proved to be the strongest and able to stop the knuckles from vertical movement (so that they can slide out of each other and disconnect). They are a little big in scale though.
Bachmann and Accucraft knuckles are a close second.
Bachmann ones look a little better than the Aristo ones, they perform well and come in different shank length, and height configurations (for 1:20.3 stock).
Accucraft ones look the best on 1:20.3 stock and perform well.
Kadee knuckles look really great and are nearer to scale size. They are pretty good performers on the climb but can have real problems with a long train rolling stock forces on the couplings whilst rolling down the decline.
Lastly are the USA trains and LGB Knuckles.
The USAT ones are not very strong and can disconnect on the climb leading to a few minor disasters.
The LGB knuckles do not look great but they are strong and perform pretty well except for coping with the stresses exerted on them on a downward train
 
Chris Wright said:
...The locos are Piko twin motor plus an LGB ICE 3 seven car EMU with drive cars each end so two motors. The lift I require is one foot and I have about 25-30 foot in which to do it. To save me doing this by trial and error vis. buying a 20 foot length of decking plank and laying track on it to test various inclines, has anyone any experience of doing this to inform what these heavy locos can achieve please? The track will essentially be mostly straight with a couple of sections of Piko R5 and R7 in strategic places. The lift itself on the aforementioned distances/height equates to a 4% lift which is wuite steep so will it won't it?
Click to expand...

LGB were designed to operate up to 5% (1 in 20) and over the years I have found that to be a good rule of thumb. The older LGB locomotives tend to be heavier than the more recent models owing to the fact that they used lead weights rather than the modern lighter (and safer) substitutes. Traction tyres (renewable and set into the wheels of most LGB locomotives) and weight confer a considerable climbing ability. No experience with Piko.

Here's a couple of my older images showing both large and small LGB locomotives hauling moderate loads up a 1:20 gradient (note the double curve, not to be recommended, and now removed!).

The 0-8-0 weighs 3.8kg and has 1 traction tyre traction and one motor.
994633-climbs-slope-with-lo.jpg

The Small Stout 0-4-0, pulling the same load up the same slope, weighs 1.4kg and has 1 traction tyre and one motor. small-stout-on-gradient.jpg

Hope that helps.
 
Last edited:
the grade is no problems for the couplers. the abruptness of transitions is.
(if the difference in grade between two cars is too big, the hook can be too low for the other cars loop.
double hooks, paperclips or gradual transitions remedy that.

on my last layout i had two gradients of 7 and 8%. they were doable for stainzes weighted to 5 pounds with two starterpack passenger cars. (by the skin of their teeth)
on my actual layout i have some grades of 5.5 to 6%. easyly mastered by (weighted) stainzes plus motorized tenders drawing five feet length of cars. (either five starterpack cars (10 aixles), or four 41cm newqidas) (16 aixles)
where i got curves in a grade, i did 1% less grading.
 
korm kormsen said:
the grade is no problems for the couplers. the abruptness of transitions is.
(if the difference in grade between two cars is too big, the hook can be too low for the other cars loop.
double hooks, paperclips or gradual transitions remedy that.

on my last layout i had two gradients of 7 and 8%. they were doable for stainzes weighted to 5 pounds with two starterpack passenger cars. (by the skin of their teeth)
on my actual layout i have some grades of 5.5 to 6%. easyly mastered by (weighted) stainzes plus motorized tenders drawing five feet length of cars. (either five starterpack cars (10 aixles), or four 41cm newqidas) (16 aixles)
where i got curves in a grade, i did 1% less grading.
Click to expand...
Interesting, but we did Transition on the Rack and had a steady grade to the other ends Transition. No it was in our instance the Weight of the Train causing the problem. I have had the same problem with Newquid Stock (conversted to LGB Hook, Loops and Springs) but here the problem with the Coaches is the Weak Link from the Bogie to Coupling which just flexes too much on heavy Trains with 1:30/40 Grades. Also causes problems with Uncoupling between Newquid Coaches which us why I am getting rid of them, sadly.
JonD
 
idlemarvel said:
In terms of "real world" adhesion inclines the standard gauge Black Hills railway in South Dakota has some 6% grades or about 1:16 and those are on pretty sharp curves. They have a 2-6-6-2T oil-fired Mallet to pull 7 fully loaded bogie passenger cars up at about walking speed in places.
Click to expand...

DSCF0569.JPG

The cars on the Black Hills Central are mostly ex Oregon Electric Railroad Interurban cars. Nice line, too. Runs down the valley behind Mt Rushmore, in South Dakota from Hill City to Keystone.
 
Yeah, the Centovalli line (wot we traveled on while we was on hols) is all adhesion and has grades of 30% at the Italian end - much gentler at the Swiss end o_Oo_Oo_Oo_O
 
Rhinochugger said:
On the WWSR (now lifted due to house move) I had a 2 ft plus drop in the 30 ft length of garden. So I raised the track up at the bottom end, and set it in a slight cutting at the top end. It actually helped to improve the appearance of the garden - searching for piccies :wondering::wondering:

View attachment 212847 View attachment 212848
Click to expand...
your layout is preety similar to the one i am started but mine is a single track dogbone with a 1.5 in 50 grade
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top