Hello from Philip

Philip Sharp said:
That's a good point. I was preferring battery power over track power because it would simplify the electrical work on the layout as a whole. I did not specifically think about how battery power simplifies the pointwork. That would be enough for me to definitely go with battery power.

Philip
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There are lots of options for Battery Power, just look at the Battey option in the Forums to see some of them. You can use bespoke systems there being one just across the sea from you in Oz. Uk has quite a few options and in the US there are plenty of options that will give you the option of a DCC Sound Chip and Battery Power. Had a couple of them running in my garden today.

As you are fairly new to the game I certainly suggest that you go down this route now as it will in the long run save you lots of hastle, particulary with dual gauge track. As a starter for 10 it is simple enough to have a small Battery Pack in an LGB loco say giving 6-9 volts with a DPDT Centre Off switch to run it. I did this years ago with my LGB 2075 and it ran happily like this for years till I upgraded it to and Aristocraft Crest RC setup. You can find my Thread on the Aristo RC Conversion in the Battery Forum.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
There are lots of options for Battery Power, just look at the Battey option in the Forums to see some of them. You can use bespoke systems there being one just across the sea from you in Oz. Uk has quite a few options and in the US there are plenty of options that will give you the option of a DCC Sound Chip and Battery Power. Had a couple of them running in my garden today.

As you are fairly new to the game I certainly suggest that you go down this route now as it will in the long run save you lots of hastle, particulary with dual gauge track. As a starter for 10 it is simple enough to have a small Battery Pack in an LGB loco say giving 6-9 volts with a DPDT Centre Off switch to run it. I did this years ago with my LGB 2075 and it ran happily like this for years till I upgraded it to and Aristocraft Crest RC setup. You can find my Thread on the Aristo RC Conversion in the Battery Forum.
JonD
Click to expand...
New to the hobby and more generally the required technical skills. Your suggestion above has help crystalize a somewhat hazy plan I had. Buy a second hand LGB loco, add a battery, and either add the DPDT switch you suggest or a form of RC. Someone in Auckland went the route second hand LGB -> battery -> RC route late last year. The switch route would be simpler for me.

Philip
.
 
Philip Sharp said:
New to the hobby and more generally the required technical skills. Your suggestion above has help crystalize a somewhat hazy plan I had. Buy a second hand LGB loco, add a battery, and either add the DPDT switch you suggest or a form of RC. Someone in Auckland went the route second hand LGB -> battery -> RC route late last year. The switch route would be simpler for me.

Philip
.
Click to expand...
Aha good call. I am going to give you a couple of circuits for wiring up a Loco on Battery.

The first one is for a conventional DPDT CO Switch (Double Pole Double Throw Centre Off)
This is the more conventionally used one in Battery Models. Switch one way forwards the other way reverse and centre stop. All well and good, but so often you see people driving such fitted Locomotives and what happens is that they wiz past Stop on the Switch and the Loco sets off the other way, all very embarrassing and not funny if another Loco is charging down on it. It is the circuit that is very often used in Model Railway Controllers where there is a reversing switch.

The lower drawing uses 2 SPST (Single Pole Change Over) note these do not need an Off position. You mount one each side of the Locomotive. When both switches are forwards the loco goes forwards and well you get the idea. The clever part is that if you just hit one switch the Loco will stop till you make the other one point the same way. Big advantage is that you can hit the side that is closest to you to stop the loco. You can even make one of these a DPDT CO so that some Lighting Can be incorporated should you wish. Simples. You can see that I have shown the connections (by dotted lines to show a Stop Position.
IMG_0023.PNG

JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Aha good call. I am going to give you a couple of circuits for wiring up a Loco on Battery.

The first one is for a conventional DPDT CO Switch (Double Pole Double Throw Centre Off)
This is the more conventionally used one in Battery Models. Switch one way forwards the other way reverse and centre stop. All well and good, but so often you see people driving such fitted Locomotives and what happens is that they wiz past Stop on the Switch and the Loco sets off the other way, all very embarrassing and not funny if another Loco is charging down on it. It is the circuit that is very often used in Model Railway Controllers where there is a reversing switch.

The lower drawing uses 2 SPST (Single Pole Change Over) note these do not need an Off position. You mount one each side of the Locomotive. When both switches are forwards the loco goes forwards and well you get the idea. The clever part is that if you just hit one switch the Loco will stop till you make the other one point the same way. Big advantage is that you can hit the side that is closest to you to stop the loco. You can even make one of these a DPDT CO so that some Lighting Can be incorporated should you wish. Simples. You can see that I have shown the connections (by dotted lines to show a Stop Position.
View attachment 226499

JonD
Click to expand...

Thanks for going to trouble of posting the schematics. They made a welcome break from reading the NMRA data sheets on stub turnouts. I will plan to go with the 2 SPST option.

Philip
 
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