HELP! New toy won't work... :(

andyspencer

andyspencer

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Hey guys, so I've just received in the post an LGB 25420 GE 4/4 loco that was sold as 'testrun only' and with sound. From what I can find, this loco didn't come with factory sound, and looking at the floor by the speaker, its not quite how it left the factory... But basically the loco won't work on track power. All I get is a 'pop' noise from the speaker. I've tried altering the switch positions in the cab, but no change. Its got a 4 position switch and a 2 position switch. The loco has a DCC ready sticker - is it posible that it has been chipped? Would you get this fault on straight DC powered track?

In the same delivery I also got an LGB 2143 Thusis. This works fine, but I turned the controller off quickly and went into reverse (very short test track) and it carried on in forwards... Is it possible this is chipped as well as I recall reading a few days back about this same situation somebody else had reported.

Look forward for some positive help as sending it back is gonna be expensive and a faff...
 
I, and I'm confident several others on here, sympathise with you and would be happy to try and help.
However I would caution against any action until some form of agreement has been reached with the vendor.
 
Hi Neil, thanks for the advice. I certainly don't wanna do anything drastict until I've been in touch with the seller. If they are chipped, it works out in my favour so wanted to rule this out before I report the loco not working.
 
andyspencer said:
Hey guys, so I've just received in the post an LGB 25420 GE 4/4 loco that was sold as 'testrun only' and with sound. From what I can find, this loco didn't come with factory sound, and looking at the floor by the speaker, its not quite how it left the factory... But basically the loco won't work on track power. All I get is a 'pop' noise from the speaker. I've tried altering the switch positions in the cab, but no change. Its got a 4 position switch and a 2 position switch. The loco has a DCC ready sticker - is it posible that it has been chipped? Would you get this fault on straight DC powered track?

In the same delivery I also got an LGB 2143 Thusis. This works fine, but I turned the controller off quickly and went into reverse (very short test track) and it carried on in forwards... Is it possible this is chipped as well as I recall reading a few days back about this same situation somebody else had reported.

Look forward for some positive help as sending it back is gonna be expensive and a faff...
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The 25420 switches should be set as follows: 4-position switch to the far right (position 3), 2-position switch down (position U). The loco should then work off track. Moving the 2-position switch up switches power supply to the pantographs.

Regarding the Thusis, yes it's possible that it's chipped and/or has a delay circuit built in to avoid damaging the gearbox through over rapid direction switching.
 
andyspencer said:
Just checked switch positions - its still a no go :(
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Bummer.
Regarding the Thusis could you try and replicate the reversal failure on a longer length of track? As Whatlep has said
if it's chipped it'll slow down, pause and then accelerate in reverse on sudden analogue polarity reversal.
 
Andy, if these are the locos you got off German ebay they may well be chipped and the chips could be any number of brands and types since these locos are 20 years old, many of which were only sold in Germany. Some decoders will work on DC as well as DCC others won't. I've had similar problems in the past from locos bought from Germany, Austria & Switzerland. Often 1990s loco had Lens decoders fitted which usually are faulty, others have decoders designed by use with Marklin AC systems others have been programmed with addresses that won't work with MTS. With old decoders I've found it is usually best to replace them with more reliable modern higher amp rated decoders that don't blow so easily.
 
If the locos are otherwise in good condition and you got them for a low price there is not point in returning them if you are able to wire in new decoders yourself.
 
funandtrains said:
If the locos are otherwise in good condition and you got them for a low price there is not point in returning them if you are able to wire in new decoders yourself.
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I agree with that. Of course there's also the possibility that the Ge 4/4 is chipped and CV29 has been set to "digital only". A long shot, but possible.
If I can be of assistance with a screwdriver, I'm happy to offer help and/or test on DCC for you. We aren't exactly neighbours, but Malvern's not toooo far away.
 
Looks like the previous posts have covered the obvious possibilities.

I'd say contact the seller and see if you can find out any more info as to whether they're chipped or not, and also find a friend with a dcc programming track and try reading back - this'll soon show if there's a decoder and also tell you more about it.

A loco that continues on in the same direction if you very rapidly switch direction on a DC controller is a strong indicator of a chipped loco. As has been said, with an LGB/Massoth chip (and some others) it should gently slow and reverse, although I have a couple of NCE decoder-fitted locos that do get confused on analogue DC and run the opposite way. (I don't take these to friends' lines!)
 
If the locos aren't chipped, they should emit a high frequency buzz when on a DCC track.

Also, it may be that a wire has come loose during transit in the post? Might be worth ensuring all cabling is secure....
 
ntpntpntp said:
Looks like the previous posts have covered the obvious possibilities.

I'd say contact the seller and see if you can find out any more info as to whether they're chipped or not, and also find a friend with a dcc programming track and try reading back - this'll soon show if there's a decoder and also tell you more about it.

A loco that continues on in the same direction if you very rapidly switch direction on a DC controller is a strong indicator of a chipped loco. As has been said, with an LGB/Massoth chip (and some others) it should gently slow and reverse, although I have a couple of NCE decoder-fitted locos that do get confused on analogue DC and run the opposite way. (I don't take these to friends' lines!)
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I'm glad about that :D:D:D:D
 
Andy, have you considered simply taking the bodies off and having a look at what's inside....?

A Thusis/Heidi isn't difficult to get into, I can tell you how if you want?

Jon.
 
Hi Jon, yes please. Didn't really wanna open em but if its a couple of screws then I'd have a look. To be honest once their open i could probs tell if they are chipped but wouldn't be able to tell what type and have no means of testing.
 
andyspencer said:
Thanks for all the input guys. Whatlep-Sending you a pm about visiting you.
Also posting in the DCC section to see if any more local peeps have testing facilities.
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Responded to the PM. If you decide to take the locos apart rather than visit, a photo is usually good enough to tell what's inside if you don;t recognise the bits yourself.
Good luck! :nail:
 
All seriousness aside, I have an extra pick axe and sledge hammer I could lend you. :rolf:
Seriously, I do hope you get them running so we can have a look at them, cause I know you'll post some pics after this ordeal.
 
andyspencer said:
Hi Jon, yes please. Didn't really wanna open em but if its a couple of screws then I'd have a look. To be honest once their open i could probs tell if they are chipped but wouldn't be able to tell what type and have no means of testing.
Click to expand...

OK then, here we go: working from memory of opening up my Heidi a few weeks ago to put a sound unit in her, your Thusis should be identical: firstly support the loco firmly but safely on its back - best thing is to use the inverted top half of the polystyrene box, assuming you have it - if you got yours unboxed then you'll need to support it on something suitable so you don't damage the whistle on the cab roof.
Now there are just five screws to remove to separate the entire body from the chassis; note which screw is which as you remove each one, because there is at least a couple of different lengths/sizes used. The first one is under the smokebox, in the middle - you'll have to swing the pony truck to one side to get your screwdriver onto this one. Then two more are halfway down the loco under the side tanks - you may have to VERY GENTLY bend the motion out of the way with your screwdriver to get at one or the other. Finally there are two under the cab - the right hand one (as you're looking at the underside - actually the loco's left) is clearly visible and easy to get at, but the one on the left (loco's right) is hidden by a black cylinder (air tank/pump or something?) which must be very gently prised out from where it is clipped into the frame rail (it's only pushed in, and should respond to some gentle pressure from a flat-bladed screwdriver; it may or may not also be helpful to unscrew and remove the cab step to get the air tank out easily) - once that part is removed the cab screw is exposed and can be removed.
Once all five screws are out, the whole smokebox/body/cab will simply lift off - it will still be connected by various cables, so be careful not to pull on these too hard. Then have a look at what is inside, take a quick pic of it and post it here - we should be able to tell you what you've got there!
Reattaching the body is simply the reverse of removal, as you are putting it back on the chassis just ensure that all the various pipes and handrails fit back into their designated holes, and be careful not to trap any of the lighting wires, especially under the smokebox where they run to the front lamps. If you've got no screws left over at the end, you're probably OK! ;)

Your other loco is this thread is one I'm not familiar with, but I'm sure that body removal is just a matter of a few screws again - LGB's diesels and electrics are usually even easier than their steamers.

Best of luck!

Jon.
 
Hi Jon, both models in question are swiss electric loco's... Just double checked my original post and I've written the correct numbers.
So to remove an electric loco body, with out having the loco in front of me but I'm guessing a small number of screws and the body should come off?
 
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