Help with LGB 5095 light

ok nobby let me see if i can confuse more

the 5091 is a motor-it needs power-the power needs to be controlled via a wich box-ie the EPL
otherwise the power is on, and you have no way to reverse the power and thro the 5091 the other way
so yes the 5091 motor (and internall switch) needs a momentary contact switch to shoot it power either one polairty or in reverse polarity

unless of course you skip the power and use your hand manually


heres the deal
first
the 5091 is a motor, which changes the signal lights AND changes a switch inside-
this switch is a single pole throw-simply stated, its an on/off-it either turns on or of the isolated section between the 1015u sections
second
the lights have thier own power source, as i mentioned above -they light even if no powere goes to the 5091 motor-
third
you can indeed not use the 5075 switch box, and simply slide the black plastic bit below the light mast manually (if you chose or had to) this slide will not only change the lights, but move the internal on-off siwtch
fourth and finally-the isolation sections are nothing more than "jumpers" ie theres a break in the rail
under the little plastic top with a screw bit in between the sleepers are electric posts-these are used to run wires
they connect the mainline track power on the isolated rail-to the 5091, and then frm teh 5091 back to the inside rail section of the 1015s-simply they cut or connect power to the isolated section by making a break , which the 5091 controls


go to the diagram link with the picture above- its above that which is pictured in this post
as i recall -from memory several years ago-the 1015s use the 2 inner most-center posts-ie one on either side to the center to connect-use the picture and mimic it-one set of posts links the OUTSIDE rails (outside the isolated section-ie so the track power from one outside section connects to the other outside section-so one set of posts simply jumpers this part -the outside jumper will need a long section of wire, which you can run under or along side the two 1015 sections-this wire is carrying powere from one outside ('outside' meaning outside the isolated section ) mainline to the other outside mainline

the other set of posts jumpers the INSIDE isolated section (in between the rail gap-this jumper goes through the off on switch in the 5091-when its in the OFF position, the lamp is red-the train stops because there is not power to one rail
change to green, the inside isolated rail gets power and the train goes-

the section needs to be a bit longer than your lngest loco-and-the loco musnt be connected to traling cars that pick up power-say for lights-from the track AND WHICH are connected to the loco-ie like the small , two wire coach lighting wires , which act as jumpers -or-the lamps which plug into the back of the loco IF those lamps also go to a car with wheels that also pick up track power-
(in this case the train coach lighting wires would then act as a jumper cable trailing outside the isolated section because the trailing part of the train, outside the isolated section (isolated section is unpowered-) picks up power from the track and carries it to the loco (and the isolated section) via the lighting wires

clear as mud???
 
Thanks guys for all your help, it really is appreciated.

My story is that for the last ten years I have ran a simple oval track around the Xmas tree. Now, my son is two years old. I live in Germany, and nearly everyday, we have to cross a mainline. My son sees the barriers come down, the lights etc, and he loves the trains. So, I thought I would add a crossing to the Xmas track (easily done) and a red/green light to stop/start the train.


My next move is to get an EPL box.
 
sounds good
i do the same at xmas-have a siding with a signal where i can parl one train while the other runs
no crossing gate-i have the euro pola version and its cool, with slow motion
but to make it automatic , even one direction , is fairly complicated

id try to find a LGB or playmobil crossing for him
 
Yep, I've got the LGB automatic crossing. The plan is to stop the train when the light is red, then push the button on the EPL, and the train continues, then the level cossing barriers come down as the train approaches. This is what he sees everyday.
My other step is to limit him controlling the speed of the train. At the moment, he can turn the dial on the controller, and the train is either stopped, or it is full speed. It's the way it is when you are two years old :-) So, I have got a 51120 'signal shed'. The plan here is that if the orginal controller is only set at half-speed, then he can use the 51120, but the speed of the train will be limited. Will it work? I dunno, but I think it will.

It's funny, but I've had the simple oval track running around the Xmas tree for over ten years, but then as soon as the little one arrives, I'm looking to expand/improve. Last year I swapped the Otto loco for a Stainz that had sound, and I changed all of the carriages from flatbeds to carriages that had a 'lip' around them, because I could control the speed of the train. If it was too fast, the 'snow' would fall off. The little one can't control the speed !!!! This year I'm looking to add the lights and crossing. Next year I'm already planning to add buildings, a station and a platform.
From tiny acorns....................................
 
Sorry for the delay in replying, but I've now got the EPL. It's an LGB 52750.

So....Without fixing anything to the track, I can connect the transformer to the EPL, and then connect the EPL via the Orange/White terminals to the drive motor. When flicking the switch on the EPL, the drive motor moves backwards and forwards. Everything there is looking good.
Now, I have the two existing terminals on the motor base. I can connect these to the EPL, and the lights work, and they change when operating the button on the EPL.

So, how do I incorporate the two isolator units? Am I correct in thinking that if I follow the instructions provided earlier in this thread, that the lights take their power from the track via one of the isolator units?
 
Nobbygas said:
Sorry for the delay in replying, but I've now got the EPL. It's an LGB 52750.

So, how do I incorporate the two isolator units? Am I correct in thinking that if I follow the instructions provided earlier in this thread, that the lights take their power from the track via one of the isolator units?
Click to expand...

The wiring diagram is as per my post #16.

The colour lights are powered from terminals 3 & 4 of your controller. There should be a switch assembly LGB 12030 attached to your signal base to take the track power to the isolation track units....
 
nobby-look at gizzys picture post-notice the blue top withe champex-linden address?

copy this and go directly to the link-

the exact thing you need to wire the gap section (ie the two 1015's ) is only partially in gizzys picture-to the left most- the unreadable diagram 13!
if you go directly to champex linden and pull up the diagram, it will show you the posts i described under the little plastic covers)
one wire will be very short and go into the switch motor connectors on the end -its often black
-this will show you exactly where to put in the wire into the correct posts

the other will be a single long piece of wire - often blue if original LGB
again it will be from the posts just outside the centerline under the plastic caps-


so youve got the siwtch motor going-thats great-now
you need power to the light input-again trafo 3/4, or the AC -the same as you are using for the switch -but use a separate pair of wires-this will provide AC to the lights for constant on-but as mentioned may dim with the temporary additional draw when you throw the switch

(you could simply use a separate transformer to power the lights-either AC or DC-
i use an old N scale throttle DC variable, and i can adjust the brightness by using the throttle to control the output
 
OK, I now have the drive motor going, and power to the lights and they change colour when the switch is activated. Now, how do I connect the two isolators? There are no more connections on the drive motor unit to use.
 
aHHHH HAAA-nothing more to connect?-youre screwed-LOL-(lovable but vulgar yank you know....)

it sounds as though you are missing the 12030 unit-this unit is small1" x2.5" about-it plugs into the end of the switch machine (opposite end of the white and yellow posts-panel can be removed to expose female?? plugs) , and it is the "off/on" portion, it is the actually the pole switch mechanism ) the 12030 has electrical contacts (screw posts-6 of em_ to which you attach the wires, as i painstakingly describe below-

these little buggers were pricey when not in short supply- i bought a dozen or so 5 or more years ago-this is what you need to make the isolated section work -(or-you might be able to use an HO or O scale type switch jury rigged to the switch machine-for this youll need someone in person-cant do this for you remotely-id go to a good hobby shop IF you cant get the 12030-you should be able to find one somewhere -how quickly is another matter-



go to the link i wrote about above-in diagram 13 you will see a picture of how to set up the isolated section, and where the 12030 fits
this will make life asier for you if you simply see the diagram (#9-not 13-9 has the details about the under cover 1015 posts )


ok heres from memory= pretty certain is dead on since i just did mine a couple of days ago
sitting down with the stuff in front of you
put the gaps in the rail closest to you
put the 2 1015s side by side-add as much straight track in bewteen the 1015s as you need
now
using the one on the right-remove the cover-
counting the posts from the right to the left
connect post #2 with a long length of wire-this will go to the 1015 on the left (ill tell you which post now on the left most 1015:-connect to the #5 post on this left most 1015 unit)

back to the 1015 on your right :
connect post #3 to the switch drive 12030 unit-(i describe where now:with the switch unit attached to the track on the side closest to you-with the post closest to the rail being #1, attach to #1)

now back to the 1015 on the right: using post #4-attach that to switch machine 12030 post #2

youre finished !!!
again the gaps in the track should be on the rail closest to you

otherwise, if ive done a poor job of communicating, youll need to go to the link and see the pic yourself
 
Huzzah !!!!! Now to get a 12030.......So it's off to have a peek at Flea Bay, or a trip to a local shop to see if they have any in stock.

Thanks. I'll let you know how I get on.

Ha, ha, I've ordered one for 14 euro. It should be with me within three days.
 
yes the 12030 is a small mechanical off on switch-
the electric motor unit moves a slde in the 12030-just like flipping a switch-

all the 12030 does is to create a break in the circuit to the inside rail-ie outside isolated section rail wire to 12030-then back to the inside isolated section

isnt gizzy a talented chap, being able to post all these handy pics!

huzzah!! (a term that i love and is so NOT american-we use hurrah)
 
Thank you, thank you, thank you all !

I've finally got everything working. If you follow the link below, you'll see the Xmas train in action. I know it stops halfway across the automatic barriers, but until I can convince SWMBO to move the sofa a bit I don't have enough room to lay more track.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnUmZYMLYJ8
 
hooray
or...
huzzah!!!

nice job, lovely xmas train

the little ones love em, cos dad does....
i remember doing the same some twenty years ago

glad it works
 
Well done Nobby....
 
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