Hinges

Dave great photos, shows the idea off well.
 
Hinges do not need to be much higher than the the rail. Issue is normally the ends where the rails will join as if too small a gap they will catch before bridge is completely dropped. Secret is to lay that with a non cut rail then cut at a slight angle. Angle needs to be from top away from bridge towards it. Another way to remove this issue is to use the short LGB 10090 adjustable straight track. This adjusts from 88-120 mm and can be used once the bridge has been dropped in place. Here are some pics of my one and only, needed because the Tin Security Shed has a full width door otherwise I would have cut a hole in the side. Nite at the hinge end I use sliding Hillman Railclamps to connect the rails (note damage where I forgot to slide them out of the way before lifting the bridge) the other end uses Hillman later Glendale drop in clamps. Nite that I have 4 tracks one end and 2 at the Shed end.
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granddad gnome said:
You supply some plans and I would love to have one like this
Click to expand...
Mmm, thinking about it, it's a challenge, but not too great.

There are two principles:

  1. A counterbalance which, for modelling purposes may not be necessary
  2. No hinges - the curved section rolls like the rim of a wheel on a flat length

So I suppose, getting two weatherproof items of the appropriate curvature would be the start, then use aluminum section (greenhouse sections are quite good) for the span.

I must admit, when I built my warren girder truss (which is fixed and only moves when I move house :D:D ) I did knock up a full size drawing.

Old location - can't find a piccy in the new garden as there are more photogenic locations on the line :oops:

PICT0007.JPG
 
dunnyrail said:
Hinges do not need to be much higher than the the rail. Issue is normally the ends where the rails will join as if too small a gap they will catch before bridge is completely dropped. Secret is to lay that with a non cut rail then cut at a slight angle. Angle needs to be from top away from bridge towards it. Another way to remove this issue is to use the short LGB 10090 adjustable straight track. This adjusts from 88-120 mm and can be used once the bridge has been dropped in place. Here are some pics of my one and only, needed because the Tin Security Shed has a full width door otherwise I would have cut a hole in the side. Nite at the hinge end I use sliding Hillman Railclamps to connect the rails (note damage where I forgot to slide them out of the way before lifting the bridge) the other end uses Hillman later Glendale drop in clamps. Nite that I have 4 tracks one end and 2 at the Shed end.
View attachment 260499View attachment 260500View attachment 260501
Click to expand...

Photo 2 of mine shows how I trim the rails, I do use a pin to locate the bridge when down, but no messing about with rail clamps, just wire the lift up section with a flexible cable, instant lift up and put down again, no damage to track ends. As I said earlier, I have been using this bridge well over 10 years with hardly any adjustment to it.
The decision is yours!
Dave
 
Tanker man said:
Photo 2 of mine shows how I trim the rails, I do use a pin to locate the bridge when down, but no messing about with rail clamps, just wire the lift up section with a flexible cable, instant lift up and put down again, no damage to track ends. As I said earlier, I have been using this bridge well over 10 years with hardly any adjustment to it.
The decision is yours!
Dave
Click to expand...
Yes I had forgotten your method of trimming the rails, looks like the best bet. My Rail Clamps are interferance fit just slide at one end and press in at the other where the rails come down. I do not rely on the clamps for power having flexible wire to maintain power that run to each siding on the lift up for it is not a bridge but a lifting set of sidings / running lines.
 
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