Home-made Custom Decals

I recently refinished two LGB tanker wagons. The decals are printed on ordinary paper and stuck on with "Pritstick". Probably won't last too long but so cheap and easy to do, who cares. (The photo is very critical of how they look but in reality they're fine and certainly pass the 10-foot rule!) JP.IMG_4983 copy.jpg
 
Some while ago I bought some paper from "Crafty Computer Paper" they water slide and rub off on both clear and white backgrounds, though I havn't had much luck using either!
 
I found these yesterday at the train show in Springfield. It was just shoved into a corner and I would have missed it if I didnt step to the side to look down at my cell. There was no one there to talk to about it. But, it's perhaps another option.
 

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So yesterday I printed out some ink jet clear water slide decals needed 2 printed four, this morning I sprayed one with acrylic varnish as recommended and this afternoon cur it out and applied, it worked, but did not go on very straight, my issue not enough "edge" lesson learned. sprayed the rest, and will try again later.
 
JimmyB said:
So yesterday I printed out some ink jet clear water slide decals needed 2 printed four, this morning I sprayed one with acrylic varnish as recommended and this afternoon cur it out and applied, it worked, but did not go on very straight, my issue not enough "edge" lesson learned. sprayed the rest, and will try again later.
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Spray the decal with varnish after it has been applied to the object, then the decal will be able to bed down onto the surface before drying and then applying varnish spray..
 
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BakerJohn said:
I found these yesterday at the train show in Springfield. It was just shoved into a corner and I would have missed it if I didnt step to the side to look down at my cell. There was no one there to talk to about it. But, it's perhaps another option.
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This is the usual system of waterslide decal paper but if you want white lettering on clear film using this system (like numbering a loco etc), then a little more jiggery pokery will be necessary ..... using the methods already posted enable this type of decal film to give pretty good permanent white lettering without a noticeable background..

The only other method for white lettering on clear background is to get someone who has an ALPS/Citizen printer that uses white ink..
As already posted, there are a few who will do it at a price.
I have used Stan Cedarleaf in US who charges approx £30 a sheet (depending on how much you have filled up the A4 sheet) plus shipping.. but there are a couple of outfits in UK who can do the same.
You will have to do the design etc or it will cost more if you get the producers to do it depending on the complexity, number of colours etc etc.
 
JimmyB said:
As ink jet ink is water soluble you must, seal it before immersing in water, as per the instruction, other wise the ink just floats off the decal.
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Yeah, sorry Jimmy, I use colour laser... my bad...
but, even with inkjet printing, the varnish coat before immersing the decal film in water, can be a very light one as it is only sealing the surface....
 
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I'm not sure of the exact details but some people use white ink in their regular printer and print that last over the colours. The decal is then applied ink down.
I couldn't be bothered with all the experimentation and found professional services that can do it for me for a fairly good rate.
 
I just used some inkjet vinyl. I wanted a blue loco to haul some B & O coaches I'd had for years -

From this
Name Change _1_.JPG

to this

Name Change _5_.JPG

But then I am a short arms and deep pockets man!

PS - still the rear of the tender needs sorting.
 
trammayo said:
I just used some inkjet vinyl. I wanted a blue loco to haul some B & O coaches I'd had for years -

From this
View attachment 247918

to this

View attachment 247917

But then I am a short arms and deep pockets man!

PS - still the rear of the tender needs sorting.
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Ink Jet Vynyl is the best I also find. I make up Labels to look like cast or Tinplate signs with it. Mostly with a Black Background so that White Non Printed lettering shows up well. I also colour the edges with a Black Felt Tip Pen, surprising what a big difference a little extra care can make. One may wonder why I bother so much but with Car Cards it is essential that Wagon Numbers can be read to relate to the destinations required by the car Cargs. I also where possible try to keep any of the Labels clear of Rivets, not so easy in Mick’s case with a long line of Rivets down the centre of the Tender.
 
dunnyrail said:
I also where possible try to keep any of the Labels clear of Rivets, not so easy in Mick’s case with a long line of Rivets down the centre of the Tender.
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Try using a hair dryer to soften the vinyl a bit and use a burnishing tool to get it to form better over things like rivets or into creases between boards.
 
The signage and other "decals" on this Occre tram are cut, using a sharp scalpel, from the printed paper sheet supplied with the kit. I just added a thin self adhesive tape to the back of the printed sheet and a self adhesive clear film, to protect the print, before cutting. Yes, look carefully, they do stand a bit proud but they look ok to my eyes in this application. If so long as you are applying to flat or single curvature surfaces it's a nice low cost easy to make solution. Max

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