In-ko-pah Railroad - Another new building

Ray Dunakin

Registered
I've started a new building for my In-kopah Railroad. This will be the first building in the town of Mineral Ridge. It will also be an experiment in using PVC foam board (aka Sintra) and resin castings to simulate the look of stone construction. In the past I've used only real stone for my stone buildings, bridges and retaining walls, but there are limitations to what can be done using real stone. Since this building will be surrounded by real stone cliffs as well as foundations and retaining walls made of real stone, it will be crucial to get the simulated stone to look right! A while back I did a real "quick and dirty" test on a scrap of PVC to see if it was even possible to texture it to look like a stone wall. Here's what I came up with:
IMG_5274.jpg


It's far from perfect (though the photo doesn't do it justice), however I know how to improve it. So I'm forging ahead... The design of my building was inspired by this historic brick-and-sandstone structure:
StoneStorefront1c.jpg


Mine will be narrower, with different details, and the side wall will be of rubble stone construction rather than brick. Due to its location, only the front and left side of my building will be visible, thus only those two sides will need to be textured. I started by cutting out the front and side walls from 6mm PVC. The left wall will be worked on first. I marked the locations of the quoins with pencil:
IMG_7513c.jpg


Next I roughed up the surface by tapping it firmly with various rocks:
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Then I used a carbide-tipped metal scribe to scribe a pattern of random stones into the surface. After scribing the stone pattern, I added more texture by tapping it with rocks again:
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Here is the completed wall. The area at lower left will be hidden by a "boulder" so there was no need to detail that section:
IMG_7548c.jpg


Here's a closer view of the texture:
IMG_7557cc.jpg


Next I glued the front and two side walls together, and tested the fit on the concrete foundation:
IMG_7569.jpg


The foundation was faced with thin stones, glued in place using paintable silicone sealant. I still have to make the sidewalk and stairs:
IMG_7571.jpg


Here's a wider shot of the town site and in-progress structure:
IMG_7579.jpg


The front wall has sections which stand out, so I cut some 3mm PVC and glued it in place:
IMG_7582c.jpg


I also cut a subfloor from 3mm PVC and glued it in place. In this shot of the underside, you can see the strips of PVC and styrene that support the subfloor:
IMG_7586c.jpg


Now, the big question was, How to replicate the rough-hewn faces of the rectangular sandstone blocks? The method I chose is as follows... First I cut some 6mm PVC into strips of two different widths. Then I used a sharp hobby knife to carve the upper surface of each strip, as shown below. (I carved these during a two-hour wait while my wife was getting some medical procedure done.)
IMG_4677.jpg


These strips were then cut into individual blocks, and the ends carved to shape. I decided the texture needed to be a bit coarser, so I used an old craft paintbrush to stipple a thin, irregular coat of automotive spot putty onto the face of the blocks:
IMG_7484.jpg


I then glued the blocks to a scrap of rigid plastic sheet, and built up a low wall of styrene strips around the perimeter in order to make a silicone rubber mold:
IMG_7472c.jpg


Here's the silicone mold:
IMG_7495c.jpg


I poured urethane resin into the mold, covered it with a piece of thick plastic film, and topped that with a flat, heavy plastic sheet. I don't know what kind of plastic film I used -- it came from a large bag that brass screen was shipped in. But it's a pretty common type, and the resin doesn't stick to it. After the resin cures, the plastic peels off easily and the castings are popped out of the mold. I added some colorant to the resin to make the castings light gray. They'll be painted, but this way if the paint ever gets scratched, it won't show:
IMG_7491.jpg


That's as far as I've gotten for now. More to come!
 
That is some truely extraordinary work you have done there Ray. I can't wait to see the finished article. I think you really have nailed the stonework effect first time. Some very interesting and creative techniques. Quite an inspiration, if only I had the skill to even dare to try it myself . Anybody here know the UK equivelent of "Sintra" ?
Max.
 
Foamex board

or the corigated one is correx board
 
Hi,

You ask for the UK equivalent of Sintra - its PVC solid foam one make is Vekaplan which is quite dense, there others that are softer.

You want to find a exhibition sign maker or supplier of Plastics - the sheets are large - 8 x 4 so not cheap, the supplier will be able to cut it down to 4 x 4.

I use it on my buildings and rolling stock etc - its superb stuff, glue it with Evo-stik.

Here is a link to a local (to me) supplier to show you what sort of company you are looking for

http://www.plasticsdirect.co.uk/html/Plasticmaterials_10.html < Link To http://www.plasticsdirect...asticmaterials_10.html


A company in Chesham may be near you - here is a link

http://www.supersizeprint.co.uk/aboutus

I have not bought from them but it sounds to be the same stuff, maybe a phone call to them?

5mm is the standard thickness here , there are others as well.

Ray will have 6mm (-1/4") in the USA as the same as they use imperial measurements.

Yours Peter.
 
Brilliant stuff!
That is the most extraordinarily accurate representation of a random rubble wall I have ever seen.
Most commercial offerings have a pattern which ruins the random effect.
 
Hi Ray,

Very nice indeed!

That mould will save you a lot of work, mould making and the use of resin is one (amogst many) area where I have no expertise at all.

Congratulations!

Yours Peter.
 
oh man ray
ttats fantastic, i only wish you had made molds of each of the walls and sold a resin or hydrocal kit,
thats such a superb and typical western building

i marvel at the time invested and it really shows

any chance its from cripple creek CO?
 
Thanks guys!
The material for the mold is called OoMoo 30. I like this stuff because you mix it in equal parts by volume, not by weight, so you don't need a fancy scale. It's also pretty forgiving of minor inaccuracies, so you don't have to worry about being super precise. It's made by Smooth-On, but I get it from this art supplier:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/smooth-on-oomoo-30-silicone/#items < Link To http://www.dickblick.com/...moo-30-silicone/#items

The urethane resin I use is also made by Smooth-on, and is just as easy to use as the silicone rubber. It's called Smooth-Cast 300:

http://www.dickblick.com/products/smooth-on-smooth-cast-300/ < Link To http://www.dickblick.com/...th-on-smooth-cast-300/

It took me about a week to scribe the stone pattern in the side wall. That was doing a little at a time, an hour here, a half hour there. I did some of it in the waiting room at the doctor's office!

The small hole in the front of the foundation is drainage. There's a "pit" in the middle of the foundation for wiring the lights, and I don't want it to fill up with water when it rains. When I make the sidewalk, I'll have to include a "drainpipe" so as not to block the drainage.

I use PVC pipe cement to glue the PVC to itself. When I glue styrene to it, I usually use Weldon-16.

The stone block castings are 3/8" x 3/4". The narrower ones are 1/4" x 3/4".

A while back, I did an experiment with brick texture on PVC and got really good results. I'm planning to do a brick building next.

Steve, the prototype is somewhere in the Mid-west. I don't recall exactly where, but I'm thinking maybe Kansas? I did a Google image search for "sandstone buildings" to find reference material, and that was one of the pics that came up.
 
I just looked up the prototype again, it's actually in Woodland, CA. If you do a Google image search for "sandstone buildings woodland" you'll find a few more pics of it.
 
Fantastic work Ray have really enjoyed reading about your modelling in the Garden Railways mag have used some of your painting technics on my Piko buildings.
 
Ray - pure genius. I love the casting idea, I've just started a platform and feel a real fraud thinking a quick spray of red oxide will do. You get out what you put in. The quality of that build is something else. Some articles you log in the memory bank for return visits for inspiration - this is one. Thanks for sharing this.
 
Brilliant detail. A nice bit of work
 
Progress has been a little slow this week, but here's an update...
I made small sections of wall to be glued to the inner surface of the building's side walls, along the top. This provides texture for the small portion of the side wall which will be visible on both sides, and also makes the wall thicker:
IMG_7615c.jpg


Here you can see one of the pieces glued in place, along with a strip of styrene to support the roof:
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And here's the roof glued in place. The roof was cut from 6mm PVC foam board:
IMG_7619c.jpg


When I built up the sublayers for the front wall of the structure, I scribed "board" into the arch area of the PVC foam. Now I've added some trim, made from styrene strips:
IMG_7623a.jpg


The interior rooms of the building will be removable units that can be accessed from the rear of the building. I got the idea from fellow modeler, Bob Santos. I built these from PVC, mainly 3mm thickness but also some 6mm. Here's the lower room. The ceiling is secured by stainless steel, #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws. Strips of .250" x /375" styrene are glued to the top of the ceiling, to support the upper room at the correct level.:
IMG_7658c.jpg

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Here's the upper room. The left wall of the room is recessed about 1/8" inch, to clear the window frame and glass which will be installed in the side wall of the building:
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In this view from the rear, you can see how the interior units fit into the structure. The space between the upper and lower rooms can be used to wire the interior lighting. There will also be a gap between the rear wall and the back of the interior units, for wiring:
IMG_7633.jpg


A closer view of the units in place. Note the slightly recessed wall on the upper unit, designed to clear the window frame and glass which will be installed later:
IMG_7632c.jpg


And here's a look at the lower room, seen through the front opening:
IMG_7628.jpg


Next up was building the front door and window assembly. On my first attempt I tried doing it a little differently than usual, and was not successful. I started with a sheet of .040" thick styrene, and traced the opening onto it. Then I added the main frame pieces:
IMG_7666c.jpg


Before adding any further detail, I tried to cut out the window openings. The results were too crude -- having the straight edge raised above the surface by the frame pieces allowed the tip of the knife to wander slightly. Also, the knife left ridged that would need to be sanded down. I could have salvaged this, but it would be too much work:
IMG_7717.jpg


So I scrapped it and started over. I first glued together the main frame pieces, cut from strips of .080" x .125" styrene. Then I used various sized strips of .040" thick styrene to build up what I call the "backplate" on the underside of the frame:
IMG_7671c.jpg


Then the finer details were added, using strips of various size. Here's the finished product:
IMG_7682c.jpg


Here's a closeup showing some of the details. I used .020" styrene rod around the perimeter of the windows and panels:
IMG_7702.jpg


And here's the door and window assembly temporarily installed in the structure:
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IMG_7707c.jpg


That's all for now. Enjoy!
 
Time for another update... I did some more preliminary work on the front of the building. I had previously laminated some 3mm PVC foam board to create some raised areas. But I decided that the non-raised area above the upstairs windows needed to be taller. So I had to cut off some of the laminated material. After a bit of effort I got it off, however it damaged some of the substrate:
IMG_7724.jpg

I patched up the damaged area with some automotive spot putty. It doesn't need to be perfect, since it will all be covered with stone castings later. I also decided to add the arched attic vents above the windows. Originally I had planned to use rectangular vents, but the arched vents looked so great on the prototype building, I couldn't resist them even though it means more work:
IMG_7730.jpg
To make the attic vents, I laid out the radial "sunburst" design on a sheet of .040" styrene:
IMG_7741c.jpg
My intention was to cut out the indivdual openings, but this was getting too tedious for me. So I went to Plan B: Cut out the entire arc opening, then glue in bits of .040" x .060" styrene strips. It's not as elegant, but it works. Then I built up the frame out of curved and straight styrene strips, and added the "backplate". After it's painted, I'll glue some fine brass screen to the rear of the backplate:
IMG_7746c.jpg
Here's how they look installed in the structure:
IMG_7757.jpg
The upstairs windows were built in conventional manner, starting with the large frame pieces. Then I added strips of .375" styrene to the rear of the frame as a "backplate". In this photo you can see how I used steel blocks, with a strip of .250" square styrene as a spacer, to align the backplate piece on the frame:
IMG_7761.jpg
The finer details were built up using various strips of styrene. I cheated a little and built a fake sash into the lower part of the window frame. I didn't want to fuss with trying to cut glass precisely enough to fit into a real sash. This way, all I have to do is glue a single sheet of glass over the rear of the entire frame:
IMG_7769c.jpg
The side window was built the same way, but lacks the short section at the top:
IMG_7774c.jpg
Here are a couple shots of the building in position on the foundation, with all the window frames temporarily installed:
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IMG_7804c.jpg
The next phase of the project will be making the rear enclosure. After that I will be able to start attaching the stone castings to the front of the building.
 
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