Installing LGB Container Wagon Wheel Set Control Kit

The coupling rod kits arrived yesterday and I had some time today to fit one to my LGB 41841 RhB baggage car, which was the "worst offender" when it came to running on R1 due to its very long wheelbase (252mm).

IMG_20200308_133431.jpg

The wheels easily misalign if there is nothing behind the baggage car to straighten the coupling/axle to it tends to be dragged kicking and screaming around tight bends.

The kits came nicely packaged with each of the three sets I ordered in their own packets. Instructions are provided in German only.
IMG_20200308_133124.jpg

There is a YouTube video on the website but it only shows the simple case where no holes need to be drilled. It took a bit of puzzling and pondering to decide a plan, nevertheless it only took about 15 minutes with the following tools, hand drill with 2mm bit, cross head screwdriver and some pliars.

IMG_20200308_151302.jpg

This is the set I installed today:

IMG_20200308_133151.jpg

You get a threaded brass rod, two locking nuts, two brackets that fasten to the axles, two clamps to attach the brass rod to the brackets, and four screws to hold the brackets in place on the axles.

First job is to mark the position of the holes for the screws to hold the brackets in place. Use the brackets as a template and drill a 2mm hole. I used a finger twist drill rather than a power tool to avoid accidental damage.

IMG_20200308_134711.jpg

Now fit the clamps to the brackets. Use pliars or similar to open the jaws of the clamp, and to close them again.

IMG_20200308_135151.jpg

Screw the first bracket in place. You'll find it easier to fit the other end of you remove the wheels first:

IMG_20200308_140634.jpg

Finished. You can adjust the distance by twisting the rod between your fingers. Once you are happy the axles are aligned you can tighten the locking nuts.


IMG_20200308_140856.jpg

Finally the test. You can perhaps see even though the baggage car is at the end of the train the wheels are alighned to the curve.

IMG_20200308_141212.jpg

The end result is excellent. The baggage car no longer drags, it runs much more quietly and with less effort from the loco, and the couplings align better for shunting purposes. Hopefully the other kits will similarly improve the other problem wagons, but on the basis of this exercise I can thoroughly recommend these coupling kits.
 
Seen this version and another that was plastic and I can see that it would work in a tight turn and probably help but what happens in a "S" curve?
 
I don't have an s-curve on my layout but I'll see if I can put a test track together. I imagine it would just "average out" the effect of the axles turning.
 
Hello Dave and other g scale maniacs (joking of course),
just joined this forum.
thanks for positive feedback to my coupling rods (sorry could not find any better word for it). I offer them since roughly 5 years from now and there should be around more than 3500 sets in the field now. I appreciate going in the english speaking market since 2 years, thus I`m pretty known around the german folks already.
I offer coupling rod sets for all 2 axle g-scale models, but to be honest, the problem increases with the distance of the the axles, in deed the conversion Dave described shows the worst one, because of maximum axle distance.
Let me just post one more thing.......the main important thing is to adjust the length of the rod in this way, that, by pulling on both coupling rods, the LGB connectors(so called bottle openers) ARE PARALLEL. If any problem occurs during operation , check this one again (happened to me as well) . The best way to check the function of the rods is to convert 3-5 coaches an let them run on the track. First of all you will hear the difference. No more scratching, but running as smooth as 8 wheeler wagons. Also the pushing of a train is much more effective.
Feel free to order some more, also check other useful things on my page, such as switch repair set, just to mention one of it.
best regards
Bernd
 
Last edited:
The only two axle car I have is the LGB Bobber caboose. Do these work with the LGB Track cleaning pad attachment 50050 installed? I doubt it but would be nice if they did.
 
Derailed said:
The only two axle car I have is the LGB Bobber caboose. Do these work with the LGB Track cleaning pad attachment 50050 installed? I doubt it but would be nice if they did.
Click to expand...
I have one of these wagons which I have modernised to look more European by using a different roof and painted yellow for my MoW fleet.

My intention was to fit a 50050 cleaner underneath, but as this vehicle has side boards along the chassis, it can't be done....thumbnail_20200530_191613.jpg
 
I removed the side boards and have the pad attachment mounted to the bottom of the bobber as per the instructions.
 
Derailed said:
I removed the side boards and have the pad attachment mounted to the bottom of the bobber as per the instructions.
Click to expand...
I wanted to keep the side boards on my caboose.

Shame really, as it was to become a Rail Grinder Unit. I might see if I can fit a sanding block underneath....
 
Now adding my two pennyworth. I ordered a selection of kits from Bernd Betz for a variety of RhB and Austrian wagons (19 in total), although the main concern was the badly behaved RhB container cars (particularly the Coop cars).

Ordering was easy although he doesnt take cards; but my bank (Barclays) seems to pay euro OK. No customs/duty problems.

I'm halfway through the upgrade process. Dave's instructions above are excellent. When I first looked at my RhB high side gondola, I thought ït wouldn't work due to the gear under the wagon; but German engineering wins the day; fits perfectly.

I also noted that the brass rods are nicely flexible as I struggled with a RhB goods van.

Many thanks to Bernd for this (reasonably priced) upgrade.
 
I spent the morning assembling the LGB 67900 wheel control modification kits for my RhB long wheelbase container wagons. It wasn't too hard with guidance provided in this thread, except for fitting the retaining clips on the rod which connects the wheel sets.

It took me well over an hour to figure out a way to fit the first clip, but eventually I worked out a way to do it on the kitchen table without any particularly special tools. The breakthough moment came when I realised that the gap behind the jaw hinge on one my small bullnose pliers was wide unough for me to lay the clip over It and tap the wire down through the hole with a small hammer.

Anyway, all 10 wheel control sets have now been assembled and one has been fitted to a container wagon chassis for operational testing.... phew!

C771227F-31C4-45E5-BD1F-A02D14B37D6E.jpeg
9E0DE41E-8080-408F-BD19-C9172CCFC617.jpeg
 
dunnyrail said:
Wow £115 for a pack of ten x Gaugemaster! Cheeper options available, have seen them for £84!
Click to expand...
Well, I've ended up paying AUD 10.25 (GBP 5.44) total landed cost per wagon for a conversion, by carefully watching for sales over the past couple of years .

Given that the LGB RhB container wagons end up costing me at least AUD 200 to AUD 300 each, an AUD 10.25 extra per wagon is a very small price to pay for improved running.

What price anyone pays depends on a whole bunch of factors, including the degree of difficulty of actually getting the goods into your hands. Sticker prices are just the start of establishing landed cost. €6 per item will turn into quite a bit more than AUD 10.25 by the time currency conversion fees, and shipping costs are added.

However, I will probably buy a few from Bernd later, for other long wheelbase wagons not covered by the 67800 set.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top