Introducing myself & PIKO and LGB compatibility

You could buy it and set it aside until you need or understand it...It's always a good idea to have extra items , track , switches etc... You never know .. :wasntme:
 
Valthaer said:
One fast question from newbie. I have found a local second hand seller selling a lot of tracks, and he sells the "Electric Double Slip Switch, 22.5°" from LGB in a good condition and very good price. My question is, it can be operated in manual mode?. At first, i prefer to operate all switches in manual.

Thanks!
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Yes, all LGB points (switches) can be worked manually - and it doesn't matter if you leave the electric points motors on there (you can still throw the point manually using the little tab that sticks out from the motor housing) or take them off and replace them with two of the little manual switch levers (which you can buy for a few pounds/euros each). In fact, it might be best to swap the motors for the manual controls, then you can keep the motors clean and dry indoors until you decide you want to motorise your points later on.

Actually, I've just thought of one thing - does the double slip have two of the standard black LGB points motors, or does it have one single long grey plastic cover at one side? If it has the two black motors, then what I said above all applies; but if it has the long grey cover, then it will be a very old, very early version of the LGB double slip - and while it would still be possible to throw it manually (I think), you couldn't actually replace the motor(s) with manual switches as I described.

Jon.
 
The switch have two black point motors, its the new version. So great info, thanks!

At this moment, i have bought second hand aristocraft and LGB tracks, four switches and the cross X. I can run with that the playmobil train (RC) to test some easy layouts and learning. I think i will go for the "37100 Piko G Scale BR80 Freight Starter Set" as a good starter in DC, but it later i think.

I will try to post some photos in a pair of weeks, when all packages have arrived.
 
Welcome aboard Valthaer. You have a beautiful yard and a perfect place to build your railway. We look forward to your progress.
 
Valthaer said:
The switch have two black point motors, its the new version. So great info, thanks!

............
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In that case, if it's a good price (and I'd say anything under about 100 Euro is a good price, or even a little more if it's in brand-new unused condition) then I would suggest you buy it!

Jon.
 
You should be able to operate the switch by hand.. It might be easier to remove the switch motors (two screws) if you are not likely to use them.. - They will not deteriorate due to weather if you store them indoors.

You can fit them again later if you go DCC, or want to motorise the double-slip. Else sell them on, to offset the cost of the double-slip.
 
It is always a good policy to buy directly electrically driven switches because one day or another one decides to have electrically driven switches.
If you start with manual switches, you throw away the manual motor and replace it by electrical motor. There you loosse several euros.

I have an indoor railroad, so quite small size.
At first I bought only manual switches, but today 80% of my switches are electrically driven.
 
Going right back to the original question that started this thread, yesterday I was cleaning up some track ready to lay in the garden (I'm finally getting round to it after many years!), and the track is a mixture of new and well-used LGB, Piko, AML and Aristocraft, plus LGB, Piko and Trainline45 points, all connected with Massoth clamps...... so I can fully confirm that yes, they all work together just fine! :)

Jon.
 
Great! Thanks Zerogee! Also, clamps are always necesary? Any recommendation there?

About power system, the piko starter with the BR 80 seems to be very interesting, but it seems to me the controller and power system from LGB are better? If i go to DCC are decoders compatible from PIKO locos to LGB DCC control?

Thanks!
 
Valthaer said:
Great! Thanks Zerogee! Also, clamps are always necesary? Any recommendation there?

About power system, the piko starter with the BR 80 seems to be very interesting, but it seems to me the controller and power system from LGB are better? If i go to DCC are decoders compatible from PIKO locos to LGB DCC control?

Thanks!
Click to expand...


Clamps are not essential, and I know many people run very successful and reliable layouts without them - BUT, if you can afford them, they are a very good idea..... they give a much better physical and electrical connection than the push-on joiners, and reduce any potential problems of poor continuity; they also prevent track joins from moving around and possibly separating. The other very useful thing about them is that if you use them on all your points (switches), then if you have a problem with a point it is easy to remove the clamps and lift it out for repair, if you were using the standard joiners then you'd have to lift and pull apart quite a bit of track at each side of the point....

For the moment, I will let others advise about the control system question - although I will say that GENERALLY, if you have a DCC control system (the new LGB one, although designed for their own MFX protocol, will also run DCC perfectly well) then any DCC decoder that has been built to the proper standards will work just fine.

Jon.
 
Sean McGill said:
So over on the other side of the pond you only have Piko and LGB to choose from ?
Have you thought of flex track and installing sweeping curves with all that space ?
I'm spoiled I guess , working so close to USA trains .. I have 20' diameter curves on one of my loops , the other 8' & 10' s . and my flex track came from Train-li : https://www.trainli.com/
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Hi,
I've come across some USA Trains track in the UK. Do you happen to know if it is compatible with LGB?
 
Yes Paul, USAT track is code 332 and compatible with LGB....
 
You might care to take a peek at the rail-tie spacing on the USAT track. IIRC it has the typical closer-spaced ties of the USA Class 1 track, rather than the some what 'rough and ready' tie spacing seen on LGB's narrow-gauge prototype track. This is because USAT have not yet ventured into NG in their dominance of 1/29th scale.

tac
OVGRS
POCRR - Eastern Sub
 
Valthaer said:
Great! Thanks Zerogee! Also, clamps are always necesary? Any recommendation there?

About power system, the piko starter with the BR 80 seems to be very interesting, but it seems to me the controller and power system from LGB are better? If i go to DCC are decoders compatible from PIKO locos to LGB DCC control?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Hi Valthaer,

There are a few important standards that DCC systems may or may not adhere to so this will affect how broadly compatible with other brands and models your system will be. If you are making the decision about buying a control system, this would be where I would start and I suggest it is worth doing a little research.

For my perspective I would pick a system which adheres to the NMRA standard and promotes compatibility with other manufacturers. As someone has pointed out above, the newer LGB (Marklin) system has some proprietary aspects to it. I am pretty sure the Piko DCC system is a Massoth but not sure if they have any Piko specific OEM aspects to the way it operates.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Command_Control

https://www.nmra.org/beginners-guide-command-control-and-dcc
 
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Tracks arrived :). Aristocraft and LGB and 100% compatible. I will try a test layout this weekend and will share some photo.
 
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